Elevation: 971 ft
GPS: 43.804, -71.841 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 229,793 total · 1,370/month
Shared By: Jay Knower on Oct 2, 2006
Admins: Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey LeCours, Jonathan Steitzer, Robert Hall

Description

Waimea is the the flagship crag at Rumney and home of some of the hardest routes in the country. The schist looks like a crashing wave. Routes climb up the imposing overhanging features. My friend Lee constantly worried that Waimea would tip over because of its undercut nature. I think a bigger worry is the humbling that tends to happen to the climber on these powerful and technical routes.

Waimea faces south and slightly west. The crag gets sun in the afternoon. Many of the routes, because of their steep angle, stay dry in the rain.

Getting There

The approach is long by sport climbing standards. Park in the lot. DO NOT PARK ALONG THE ROAD. From the small parking lot, take the shortcut trail across the hillside, passing Bonsai on the way. Follow this trail up the hill, to the right side of Waimea. It's also possible to hike up from Lower Darth Vader. Expect 30 minutes of walking.

Project Draws

On December 7, 2013, all of Waimea was stripped of fixed draws. Many of the draws were in really bad shape. If (when?) you put draws on your project, please put up quality quickdraws. Hanging your old junk draws on your project might seem like a good idea at the time, but many subsequent climbers will be cursing you as they clip the mank that you hung on the route. So, take one for the team, go get some new draws, and hang those on your project.

58 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Waimea

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
 429
Waimea
Sport
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
 58
All the Way-A
Sport
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
 243
Flying Hawaiian
Sport
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
 46
Luau
Sport
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
 177
Technosurfing
Sport
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
 90
Whip Tide
Sport
5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
 52
Restless Native
Sport
5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
 42
Aquarius
Sport
5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
 48
Big Kahuna
Sport
5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
 33
Tsunami
Sport
5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
 25
Man Overboard
Sport
5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
 43
Suburban
Sport
5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
 44
Butt Bongo Fiesta
Sport
5.13d 8b 31 X 32 E8 7a
 15
Urban Surfer
Sport
5.14b 8c 33 X+ 33 E9 7b
 10
China Beach
Sport
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Waimea
 429
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b Sport
All the Way-A
 58
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Sport
Flying Hawaiian
 243
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c Sport
Luau
 46
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Sport
Technosurfing
 177
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b Sport
Whip Tide
 90
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b Sport
Restless Native
 52
5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b Sport
Aquarius
 42
5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b Sport
Big Kahuna
 48
5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b Sport
Tsunami
 33
5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b Sport
Man Overboard
 25
5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b Sport
Suburban
 43
5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c Sport
Butt Bongo Fiesta
 44
5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c Sport
Urban Surfer
 15
5.13d 8b 31 X 32 E8 7a Sport
China Beach
 10
5.14b 8c 33 X+ 33 E9 7b Sport
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