Type: Sport, 40 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 352 total · 9/month
Shared By: Eric Leclerc on Nov 9, 2015
Admins: Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey LeCours, Jonathan Steitzer, Robert Hall

You & This Route


3 Opinions

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Description

This route climbs the start of Charlie Don't Surf(first route left of the v-groove). Once you're crouching on top of the bulge around the arete with two decent hands, clip the 4th quickdraw. A quick shake is possible then you traverse left on moderate ground to clip the last draw of Riviera. A few moves up brings you to the anchor of Riviera.

A parallel can be drawn between this route and The Skewer at Main Cliff.

Don't Get Out of the Boat is a 12d which shares the start of Charlie Don't Surf 5.13b. Most climbers will say that the crux of Charlie is in the first half. You have to climb the crux of a 13b to send a 12d.
The same phenomenon occurs with The Skewer 12d and Beat Junkie 13b at Main Cliff. The difficult part of Beat Junkie happens to be the crack in the first third of The Skewer.

Location

Just in front of the trail that comes from Darth Vader

Protection

5 bolts + anchor

Photos

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Jeffrey LeCours
New Hampshire
Jeffrey LeCours   New Hampshire  
I wish the crux of Beat Junkie was sending the crack in the first third for me. :D Nov 9, 2015
Eric Leclerc
Montreal
  5.12d
Eric Leclerc   Montreal
  5.12d
What's your crux Jeffrey? I guess it has to do with endurance?
BTW, go do Nine Eleven. It looks like a real fun climb... Nov 9, 2015
Jay Knower
Campton, NH
 
Jay Knower   Campton, NH  
 
Totally agree with you Eric! Nov 10, 2015