Type: Sport
FA: Dave Graham and Luke Parady 9/99
Page Views: 1,429 total · 20/month
Shared By: lee hansche on Mar 9, 2013
Admins: Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey LeCours, Jonathan Steitzer, Robert Hall

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Description

Another Dave and Luke 5.14. This one sees very little action but sounds pretty fun to me. It consists of a hard bouldery sequence to a beautiful 5.11+ flake finishing at the Restless Native anchor.

Clip the first bolt of Cote D Azure then traverse right to tackle a crimpy bulge with bad feet. You are rewarded after this boulder problem with more moderate climbing on an amazing flake to the top.

Few have climbed it but if you have, please chime in with anything I've missed.

Location

The route starts on the E-ticket ledge and climbs up to the Restless Native anchor.

Protection

Bolts to anchor with fixed biners.

Photos

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M Sprague
New England
M Sprague   New England  
I can vouch for the upper part being beautiful. I didn’t seriously work the crux since it didn’t seem very doable for me. I think I remember powerful, basically big campus moves off horrid tweaks. Too bad Dave didn’t glue on some rocks for holds for us, lol (jk). Mar 9, 2013
lee hansche
goffstown, nh
5.14a
lee hansche   goffstown, nh  
5.14a
lol, well they already tried that trick one route to the left and people freaked out for some reason haha... Mar 10, 2013
S. Neoh  
I do not recall any serious freak out caused by the bolt-on hold (on what is now Cote). There was a current of discontent. Then my buddy SteveB, in his usual cool and understated way, just worked and freed the climb w/o the artificial hold. I do not think it was Steve who removed the bolt-on hold. Mark, am I remembering right? Darn if I remember if the route name changed after it was totally freed. It would not surprise me if Steve just let the old name stand. Mar 10, 2013
M Sprague
New England
M Sprague   New England  
It was a random glued on rock. I don't remember who actually removed it, John himself or even possibly Ward or me. Now that I think of it, I vaguely remember knocking it off with a hammer. I don't think there was a lot of stink because there weren't really that many people getting on it at the time and most just kind of rolled their eyes and had other things to think about. At that time sport climbing was relatively new and in rebelling against a strict trad ethic people were still working out what would be acceptable, so some odd things occurred, like bolt on holds at Sundown.

Yeah, I think Steve kept the original name. Mar 11, 2013
lee hansche
goffstown, nh
5.14a
lee hansche   goffstown, nh  
5.14a
i was just messing around saying people freaked out haha but thanks for the added history... Mar 11, 2013