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Routes in Waimea

All the Way-A S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Aquarius S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Barracuda S 5.13d 8b 31 X 32 E8 7a
Big Kahuna S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Bonzai Pipeline T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Bottom Feeder S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Butt Bongo Fiesta S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Catch the Wave S 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Charlie Don't Surf S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
China Beach S 5.14b 8c 33 X+ 33 E9 7b
Cold War S 5.14a 8b+ 32 X+ 32 E8 7a
Concrete Jungle S 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a
Coral Sea S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Cote d'Azure S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Cyberblock S 5.13d 8b 31 X 32 E8 7a
Dodge the Lemons S 5.13c/d 8b 31 X 31 E8 7a
Don't Get Out of the Boat S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
E-Ticket S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Fly, The S 5.14d 9a 35 XI 36 E10 7c
Flying Fish S 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a
Flying Hawaiian S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Gold Coast S 5.13c/d 8b 31 X 31 E8 7a
Great White S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Groupie Fantasy S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Hawaii 5-O T 5.0 2- 4 I 6 MM 1c
Jaws II S 5.15a 9a+ 36 XI+ 37 E11 7c
Livin' Astro S 5.14c 8c+ 34 XI- 35 E9 7b
Localmotion S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Long Board S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Luau S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Man Overboard S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Mauie Wowie S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Muscle Beach S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Open Project S 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a
Open Project (Bill Clinton) S 5.15 9b 37 XII 38 E11 8a
Original Tsunami T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b A3-4 R
Restless Native S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Rhythm X S 5.13b/c 8a+ 29 X- 30 E7 6c
Riviera S 5.13d 8b 31 X 32 E8 7a
Short Board S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Sidewalk Surfing S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Silver Surfer S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Sinister 6000 S 5.13d 8b 31 X 32 E8 7a
Spiny Dogfish TR 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Style That's Free, The S 5.14a 8b+ 32 X+ 32 E8 7a
Suburban S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Surf's Up T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b R
TABDITO S 5.13b/c 8a+ 29 X- 30 E7 6c
Technosurfing S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
That Crack T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
They Died Surfing S 5.13d 8b 31 X 32 E8 7a
Tsunami S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Tuna Fish is Ludacris S 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a
Urban Surfer S 5.13d 8b 31 X 32 E8 7a
Vantage Point TR 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Waimea S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Waimea The Weenie Way T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Whip Tide S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Type: Sport
FA: Dave Graham and Luke Parady 9/99
Page Views: 1,189 total, 20/month
Shared By: lee hansche on Mar 9, 2013
Admins: Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey.LeCours, Robert Hall

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Description

Another Dave and Luke 5.14. This one sees very little action but sounds pretty fun to me. It consists of a hard bouldery sequence to a beautiful 5.11+ flake finishing at the Restless Native anchor.

Clip the first bolt of Cote D Azure then traverse right to tackle a crimpy bulge with bad feet. You are rewarded after this boulder problem with more moderate climbing on an amazing flake to the top.

Few have climbed it but if you have, please chime in with anything I've missed.

Location

The route starts on the E-ticket ledge and climbs up to the Restless Native anchor.

Protection

Bolts to anchor with fixed biners.

Photos

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lee hansche
goffstown, nh
lee hansche   goffstown, nh  
i was just messing around saying people freaked out haha but thanks for the added history... Mar 11, 2013
M Sprague
New England
M Sprague   New England  
It was a random glued on rock. I don't remember who actually removed it, John himself or even possibly Ward or me. Now that I think of it, I vaguely remember knocking it off with a hammer. I don't think there was a lot of stink because there weren't really that many people getting on it at the time and most just kind of rolled their eyes and had other things to think about. At that time sport climbing was relatively new and in rebelling against a strict trad ethic people were still working out what would be acceptable, so some odd things occurred, like bolt on holds at Sundown.

Yeah, I think Steve kept the original name. Mar 11, 2013
S. Neoh  
I do not recall any serious freak out caused by the bolt-on hold (on what is now Cote). There was a current of discontent. Then my buddy SteveB, in his usual cool and understated way, just worked and freed the climb w/o the artificial hold. I do not think it was Steve who removed the bolt-on hold. Mark, am I remembering right? Darn if I remember if the route name changed after it was totally freed. It would not surprise me if Steve just let the old name stand. Mar 10, 2013
lee hansche
goffstown, nh
lee hansche   goffstown, nh  
lol, well they already tried that trick one route to the left and people freaked out for some reason haha... Mar 10, 2013
M Sprague
New England
M Sprague   New England  
I can vouch for the upper part being beautiful. I didn’t seriously work the crux since it didn’t seem very doable for me. I think I remember powerful, basically big campus moves off horrid tweaks. Too bad Dave didn’t glue on some rocks for holds for us, lol (jk). Mar 9, 2013