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Routes in Waimea

All the Way-A S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Aquarius S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Barracuda S 5.13d 8b 31 X 32 E8 7a
Big Kahuna S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Bonzai Pipeline T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Bottom Feeder S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Butt Bongo Fiesta S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Catch the Wave S 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Charlie Don't Surf S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
China Beach S 5.14b 8c 33 X+ 33 E9 7b
Cold War S 5.14a 8b+ 32 X+ 32 E8 7a
Concrete Jungle S 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a
Coral Sea S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Cote d'Azure S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Cyberblock S 5.13d 8b 31 X 32 E8 7a
Dodge the Lemons S 5.13c/d 8b 31 X 31 E8 7a
Don't Get Out of the Boat S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
E-Ticket S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Fly, The S 5.14d 9a 35 XI 36 E10 7c
Flying Fish S 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a
Flying Hawaiian S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Gold Coast S 5.13c/d 8b 31 X 31 E8 7a
Great White S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Groupie Fantasy S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Hawaii 5-O T 5.0 2- 4 I 6 MM 1c
Jaws II S 5.15a 9a+ 36 XI+ 37 E11 7c
Livin' Astro S 5.14c 8c+ 34 XI- 35 E9 7b
Localmotion S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Long Board S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Luau S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Man Overboard S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Mauie Wowie S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Muscle Beach S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Open Project S 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a
Open Project (Bill Clinton) S 5.15 9b 37 XII 38 E11 8a
Original Tsunami T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b A3-4 R
Restless Native S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Rhythm X S 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a
Riviera S 5.13d 8b 31 X 32 E8 7a
Short Board S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Sidewalk Surfing S 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Silver Surfer S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Sinister 6000 S 5.13d 8b 31 X 32 E8 7a
Spiny Dogfish TR 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Style That's Free, The S 5.14a 8b+ 32 X+ 32 E8 7a
Suburban S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Surf's Up T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b R
TABDITO S 5.13b/c 8a+ 29 X- 30 E7 6c
Technosurfing S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
That Crack T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
They Died Surfing S 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a
Tsunami S 5.12c/d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Tuna Fish is Ludacris S 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a
Urban Surfer S 5.13d 8b 31 X 32 E8 7a
Vantage Point TR 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Waimea S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Waimea The Weenie Way T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Whip Tide S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
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Type: Sport, 50 ft
FA: Dave Quinn
Page Views: 1,653 total · 27/month
Shared By: David Quinn on Sep 7, 2013
Admins: Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey LeCours, Jonathan Steitzer, Robert Hall

You & This Route


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Description

Route starts with short easy face to a small roof, (1st crux) climb right up the left side of the fin, then left out onto face and up past two cruxes, the last just short of anchors.

Location

Line just left of luau

Protection

7 protection bolts w\quick links & carabiners on anchors

Photos

- No Photos -
M Sprague
New England
 
M Sprague   New England  
 
The roof bulge can feel quite awkward and difficult until you figure the beta. The upper face is a lot of fun and pumpy. I remember skipping one of the upper bolts to conserve energy on my redpoint. Snagged the second ascent :) Sep 30, 2013
This has been broken for the last few years, yeah? Sep 30, 2013
M Sprague
New England
 
M Sprague   New England  
 
Is it? I hadn't heard that. Possible confusion with Mr. Gerbick? That is just to the left (sharing the same start) and is broken near the top. Oct 1, 2013
David Quinn  
 
Do you mean that a hold has broken, Otey? I can't remember any holds on the route that could break. Very solid rock and not flake edges on the route. I will check it out ASAP, been wanting to check the anchors and review the bolts anyhow. Oct 1, 2013
lee hansche
goffstown, nh
lee hansche   goffstown, nh  
My understanding was that people haven't been doing it cause they like to stand in line for the same routes everyone else is climbing :P

admittedly i haven't been on it yet either but i don't know why, looks great!... Oct 1, 2013
S. Neoh  
I hate to say it but ... put a set of project draws on this baby, dust chalk on some key holds, and they will come. Then you will have to fend them off with a stick (clip). Oct 1, 2013
lee hansche
goffstown, nh
lee hansche   goffstown, nh  
haha so true... Oct 1, 2013
Did this one today. Had to clean it, as it was really dirty. Looked really good with chalk and draws. Awesome climb! Felt comparable to Butt Bongo Fiesta. Didn't notice any evidence of broken grips. Oct 4, 2013
David Quinn  
 
Awesome to hear you got on it Aaron! Thanks for letting us know that the holds are intact. Out of the many routes that I put up in Rumney, this one remains one of my favorites! I too have always thought that it felt comparable to Butt Bongo. I will be putting fixed draws on it for a the remainder of the fall, (soon) and will assess and fully re-clean the route as needed.
Thank again for you input!

DQ Oct 5, 2013
David Quinn  
 
Hung draws on the route today. I will remove them at the end of the fall season. I also did a bit of cleaning on the "shark's fin" after the roof. Most of the route is pretty clean with the exception of the very bottom, which is like 5.ez so you should be ok there for now. I will return and clean the bottom proper soon. No holds have broken on the route. Have fun! Oct 8, 2013

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