Type: Sport, 50 ft
FA: Dave Quinn
Page Views: 1,711 total · 27/month
Shared By: David Quinn on Sep 7, 2013
Admins: Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey LeCours, Jonathan Steitzer, Robert Hall

You & This Route


11 Opinions

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Description

Route starts with short easy face to a small roof, (1st crux) climb right up the left side of the fin, then left out onto face and up past two cruxes, the last just short of anchors.

Location

Line just left of luau

Protection

7 protection bolts w\quick links & carabiners on anchors

Photos

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M Sprague
New England
 
M Sprague   New England  
 
The roof bulge can feel quite awkward and difficult until you figure the beta. The upper face is a lot of fun and pumpy. I remember skipping one of the upper bolts to conserve energy on my redpoint. Snagged the second ascent :) Sep 30, 2013
This has been broken for the last few years, yeah? Sep 30, 2013
M Sprague
New England
 
M Sprague   New England  
 
Is it? I hadn't heard that. Possible confusion with Mr. Gerbick? That is just to the left (sharing the same start) and is broken near the top. Oct 1, 2013
David Quinn
  5.13a
David Quinn  
  5.13a
Do you mean that a hold has broken, Otey? I can't remember any holds on the route that could break. Very solid rock and not flake edges on the route. I will check it out ASAP, been wanting to check the anchors and review the bolts anyhow. Oct 1, 2013
lee hansche
goffstown, nh
lee hansche   goffstown, nh  
My understanding was that people haven't been doing it cause they like to stand in line for the same routes everyone else is climbing :P

admittedly i haven't been on it yet either but i don't know why, looks great!... Oct 1, 2013
S. Neoh  
I hate to say it but ... put a set of project draws on this baby, dust chalk on some key holds, and they will come. Then you will have to fend them off with a stick (clip). Oct 1, 2013
lee hansche
goffstown, nh
lee hansche   goffstown, nh  
haha so true... Oct 1, 2013
Did this one today. Had to clean it, as it was really dirty. Looked really good with chalk and draws. Awesome climb! Felt comparable to Butt Bongo Fiesta. Didn't notice any evidence of broken grips. Oct 4, 2013
David Quinn
  5.13a
David Quinn  
  5.13a
Awesome to hear you got on it Aaron! Thanks for letting us know that the holds are intact. Out of the many routes that I put up in Rumney, this one remains one of my favorites! I too have always thought that it felt comparable to Butt Bongo. I will be putting fixed draws on it for a the remainder of the fall, (soon) and will assess and fully re-clean the route as needed.
Thank again for you input!

DQ Oct 5, 2013
David Quinn
  5.13a
David Quinn  
  5.13a
Hung draws on the route today. I will remove them at the end of the fall season. I also did a bit of cleaning on the "shark's fin" after the roof. Most of the route is pretty clean with the exception of the very bottom, which is like 5.ez so you should be ok there for now. I will return and clean the bottom proper soon. No holds have broken on the route. Have fun! Oct 8, 2013