Groupie Fantasy
5.11c YDS 6c+ French 24 Ewbanks VIII- UIAA 24 ZA E4 6a British
Avg: 2.5 from 13 votes
Type: | Sport |
FA: | John Mallery 1993 |
Page Views: | 3,604 total · 18/month |
Shared By: | Lee Hansche on Oct 11, 2007 |
Admins: | Jay Knower, M Sprague, Lee Hansche, Jeffrey LeCours, Jonathan S, Robert Hall |
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Description
A really cool not-so-Rumneyish route due to the slabby nature of its crux. It's not so much a slab as it is a not too steep face climb.
In short, I'd say be ready to crimp on tiny edges and be prepared for some fancy footwork.
Start on good holds on a steep face for the first few bolts but this part isn't too hard. The first tricky part is pulling on to the slab on an assortment of tiny edges to gain a good foothold where you can catch a little rest. Climb a little higher to get to the next (thank god) bolt and encounter the crux as you move over a small overlap and a little to the left where soon the climbing gets easier and you are on to the top. At the low angle crux think feet rather than hands because what hands you have are so tiny you won't want to pull on them.
In short, I'd say be ready to crimp on tiny edges and be prepared for some fancy footwork.
Start on good holds on a steep face for the first few bolts but this part isn't too hard. The first tricky part is pulling on to the slab on an assortment of tiny edges to gain a good foothold where you can catch a little rest. Climb a little higher to get to the next (thank god) bolt and encounter the crux as you move over a small overlap and a little to the left where soon the climbing gets easier and you are on to the top. At the low angle crux think feet rather than hands because what hands you have are so tiny you won't want to pull on them.
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