Elevation: 338 ft
GPS: 43.58, -71.719 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 9,413,831 total · 52,699/month
Shared By: Jay Knower on Oct 11, 2006
Admins: Jay Knower, M Sprague, Lee Hansche, Jeffrey LeCours, Jonathan Steitzer, Robert Hall

Description

New Hampshire is the Granite State. The state motto is "Live Free or Die." Need more be said?

Overview of the regions Map modified from original in visitnh.gov/information/abo…

Actually though, the rock in this state comes in many forms, from the rounded boulders of *Pawtuckaway in the South to the clean fractured granite of *Cannon Cliff in the North. We even have a world class sport climbing area, though the cliffs at *Rumney are mostly schist. On the other side of the mountains, North Conway has its own scene and two of the best trad cliffs around. Cathedral and *Whitehorse Ledges are just minutes from town. All of this within a state that is small enough to fit into some of your National Parks out West.

Whether you consider yourself a hard core traditionalist or a sport climbing wunderkind, there is a wealth of climbing to be found in this small state. Plus, there's some die-hard Libertarian blood around here, so don't expect to pay any taxes. And fall around these parts can be pretty close to heaven.

New Hampshire's Regions

The Monadnock Region is home to fantastic rock and ice alike. Hewes Hill, Marlow Profile, Bear's Den, Fall Mountain, Keene RR Cut, the Cheese Cut. What's not to love?

The Merrimack Valley hosts one the best cliffs in the south... unfortunately there's restricted access due to it being at an air force site where they still find unexploded ordinance (Joe English Hill). I guess we've still got Rock Rimmon, ey? Jokes aside, *Pawtuckaway is the southern NH crown jewel - world class bouldering accompanied with great trad and ice climbing.

The Southeast / Seacoast part of the state also has a nice bouldering. The highest concentration can be found around Exeter. Don't miss Stonehouse Pond for some climbing and a swim.

The Lakes Region has undergone some major development in the New Durham Area, specifically at Longstack Precipice and Devil's Den by the Chinos Mountain Club. *Rumney is located within the Lakes Region map but is such a popular destination we've kept it on the main page.

The White Mountains region holds the majority of New Hampshire's climbing with a true mix of sport, traditional, and outback alpine experiences. We've broken this region into subareas (prefixed with WM) based on pockets of climbing areas, frequently named after the notch or town they are near. A rough overview map of the White Mountain region is here The most popular areas (*Cannon Cliff , *Cathedral Ledge, and *Whitehorse Ledge) are currently listed on the main page.

The Great North Woods region has seen more activity recently with routes on North Bald Cap, Outlook and Mt Forist, although it may be better known for areas in the * NH Ice and Mixed section. This region still has less documentation than the White Mountains but there is certainly plenty to explore here.

Getting There

Despite its diminutive size, New Hampshire should be found on most maps of the U.S.

Manchester hosts a major regional airport and would be the airport of choice for areas in the western part of the state (Rumney, Cannon etc. about 1 1/4 hr drive).

Portland, Maine has a good airport, and is only about 1 1/4 - 1/2 hr drive to areas like Cathedral and Whitehorse in the eastern part of the state. [Take Maine Rt 22W to Rt 114N to Rt 25W to Rt 113N to Rt 302W in Fryeburg ME, then 302W into North Conway; do NOT take Rt 302 all the way, esp. in summer)

The Boston airport is less than a three hour drive from most points in the state.

Ethics

The climbing areas in New Hampshire display diverse ethics, though some common threads can be found. No chipping, drilling of holds, or modifying of existed routes. Beyond that, consider the local area's specific ethics. What's acceptable at Rumney might not be acceptable at Cathedral, for example. If you have any questions, ask a local, get a consensus (no small feat, to be sure), and think before you act.

For those needing to study the Forest Management Plan 2005, last revised 2009, there is the link. The most climber relevant sections are (section-page) climbing: 1-14, 1-15, 2-22, 2-23, 3-15, 3-77>78 wilderness:1-22, 3-9>18, 3-47

Vegetation

This is a picture of a boy being eaten by a tree on a winter ascent of Rock Rimmon... the trees get hungry...
New Hampshire has no shortage of vegetation growing on the rock. While climbers should try to be respectful of the local flora, sometimes it feels like we are fighting a losing battle with the mosses, bushes, and trees that continually try to engulf the rock. It's not uncommon to find that a cleaned route has returned to its original scruffy state after only a year of neglect. The remedy? Get out and climb the routes!

Peregrines

Please note that seasonal peregrine closures affect many cliffs in the state. Please check the information kiosks for more information. The closures are usually clearly marked.

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Classic Climbing Routes at New Hampshire

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
WI4+
 162
Dracula
Ice
WI3
 181
Pinnacle Gully
Ice, Alpine 3 pitches
V6 7A
 115
Ride the Lightning
Boulder
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b WI4-5 M3
 132
Black Dike
Mixed, Ice 3 pitches
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
 516
Whitney Gilman Ridge
Trad, Alpine 6 pitches
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
 455
Moby Grape
Trad, Alpine 7 pitches
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 303
Recompense
Trad 3 pitches
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a A0 R
 110
Vertigo
Trad, Aid, Alpine 4 pitches
5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
 80
VMC Direct Direct
Trad, Alpine 9 pitches
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
 267
Flying Hawaiian
Sport
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
 83
The Prow
Trad 6 pitches
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
 195
Technosurfing
Sport
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
 98
Whip Tide
Sport
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
 91
Eyeless in Gaza
Sport
5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
 130
Giant Man
Sport
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Dracula NH Ice & Mixed > Frankenstein Ice > 7. Dropline Area
 162
WI4+ Ice
Pinnacle Gully NH Ice & Mixed > Mt Washington > Huntington Ravine - W…
 181
WI3 Ice, Alpine 3 pitches
Ride the Lightning Pawtuckaway > Boulder Natural > Storm Boulders
 115
V6 7A Boulder
Black Dike NH Ice & Mixed > - Franconia Notch > Cannon Ice Climbs
 132
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b WI4-5 M3 Mixed, Ice 3 pitches
Whitney Gilman Ridge Cannon Cliff > 1. Whitney-Gilman Area
 516
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Trad, Alpine 6 pitches
Moby Grape Cannon Cliff > 4. Moby Grape Area
 455
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13 Trad, Alpine 7 pitches
Recompense Cathedral Ledge > Prow Area
 303
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad 3 pitches
Vertigo Cannon Cliff > 4. Moby Grape Area
 110
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a A0 R Trad, Aid, Alpine 4 pitches
VMC Direct Direct Cannon Cliff > 3. Big Wall
 80
5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b Trad, Alpine 9 pitches
Flying Hawaiian Rumney > Waimea
 267
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c Sport
The Prow Cathedral Ledge > Prow Area
 83
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a Trad 6 pitches
Technosurfing Rumney > Waimea
 195
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b Sport
Whip Tide Rumney > Waimea
 98
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b Sport
Eyeless in Gaza WM: Kancamagus… > Sundown Ledge > Main Cliff
 91
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b Sport
Giant Man Rumney > Hinterlands
 130
5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b Sport
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