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Elevation: 337 ft 103 m
GPS: 43.58038, -71.71878
Google Map · Climbing Area Map
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Shared By: Jay Knower on Oct 11, 2006
Admins: Jay Knower, M Sprague, Lee Hansche, Jeffrey LeCours, Jonathan S, Robert Hall

Description Suggest change

New Hampshire is the Granite State. The state motto is "Live Free or Die." Need more be said?

Actually though, the rock in this state comes in many forms, from the rounded boulders of *Pawtuckaway in the South to the clean fractured granite of *Cannon Cliff in the North. We even have a world class sport climbing area, though the cliffs at *Rumney are mostly schist. On the other side of the mountains, North Conway has its own scene and two of the best trad cliffs around. Cathedral and *Whitehorse Ledges are just minutes from town. All of this within a state that is small enough to fit into some of your National Parks out West.

Whether you consider yourself a hard core traditionalist or a sport climbing wunderkind, there is a wealth of climbing to be found in this small state. Plus, there's some die-hard Libertarian blood around here, so don't expect to pay any taxes. And fall around these parts can be pretty close to heaven.

New Hampshire's Regions Suggest change

The Monadnock Region is home to fantastic rock and ice alike. Hewes Hill, Marlow Profile, Bear's Den, Fall Mountain, Keene RR Cut, the Cheese Cut. What's not to love?

The Merrimack Valley hosts one the best cliffs in the south... unfortunately there's restricted access due to it being at an air force site where they still find unexploded ordinance (Joe English Hill). I guess we've still got Rock Rimmon, ey? Jokes aside, *Pawtuckaway is the southern NH crown jewel - world class bouldering accompanied with great trad and ice climbing.

The Southeast / Seacoast part of the state also has a nice bouldering. The highest concentration can be found around Exeter. Don't miss Stonehouse Pond for some climbing and a swim.

The Lakes Region has undergone some major development in the New Durham Area, specifically at Longstack Precipice and Devil's Den by the Chinos Mountain Club. *Rumney is located within the Lakes Region map but is such a popular destination we've kept it on the main page.

The White Mountains region holds the majority of New Hampshire's climbing with a mix of sport, traditional, and outback alpine experiences. We've broken this region into subareas (prefixed with WM) based on pockets of climbing areas, frequently named after the notch or town they are near. A rough overview map of the White Mountain region is here The most popular areas (*Cannon Cliff, *Cathedral Ledge, and *Whitehorse Ledge) are currently listed on the main page.

The Great North Woods region has seen more activity recently with routes on North Bald Cap, Outlook and Mt Forist, although it may be better known for areas in the * NH Ice and Mixed section. This region still has less documentation than the White Mountains but there is certainly plenty to explore here.

Getting There

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Despite its diminutive size, New Hampshire should be found on most maps of the U.S.

Manchester hosts a major regional airport and would be the airport of choice for areas in the western part of the state (Rumney, Cannon etc. about 1 1/4 hr drive).

Portland, Maine has a good airport, and is only about 1 1/4 - 1/2 hr drive to areas like Cathedral and Whitehorse in the eastern part of the state. [Take Maine Rt 22W to Rt 114N to Rt 25W to Rt 113N to Rt 302W in Fryeburg ME, then 302W into North Conway; do NOT take Rt 302 all the way, esp. in summer)

The Boston airport is less than a three hour drive from most points in the state.

Ethics

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The climbing areas in New Hampshire display diverse ethics, though some common threads can be found. No chipping, drilling of holds, or modifying of existed routes. Beyond that, consider the local area's specific ethics. What's acceptable at Rumney might not be acceptable at Cathedral, for example. If you have any questions, ask a local, get a consensus (no small feat, to be sure), and think before you act.

For those needing to study the Forest Management Plan 2005, last revised 2009, there is the link. The most climber relevant sections are (section-page) climbing: 1-14, 1-15, 2-22, 2-23, 3-15, 3-77>78 wilderness:1-22, 3-9>18, 3-47

Vegetation

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New Hampshire has no shortage of vegetation growing on the rock. While climbers should try to be respectful of the local flora, sometimes it feels like we are fighting a losing battle with the mosses, bushes, and trees that continually try to engulf the rock. It's not uncommon to find that a cleaned route has returned to its original scruffy state after only a year of neglect. The remedy? Get out and climb the routes!

Peregrines

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Please note that seasonal peregrine closures affect many cliffs in the state. Please check the information kiosks for more information. The closures are usually clearly marked.

7,446 Total Climbs

Route Finder - Best Climbs for YOU!

Location: New Hampshire Change
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Classic Climbing Routes at New Hampshire

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
 640
Whitney Gilman Ridge
Trad, Alpine 6 pitches
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
 534
Moby Grape
Trad, Alpine 7 pitches
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 383
Recompense
Trad 3 pitches
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 497
They Died Laughing
Trad
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 872
Underdog
Sport
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 913
Lonesome Dove
Sport
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 406
Jolt
Sport
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
 958
Armed and Dangerous, and Off My…
Sport
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
 449
Millenium Falcon
Sport
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
 587
Waimea
Sport
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
 498
Peer Pressure
Sport
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
 345
Flying Hawaiian
Sport
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
 360
Social Outcast
Sport
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
 253
Technosurfing
Sport
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
 269
Flesh For Lulu
Sport
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Whitney Gilman Ridge Cannon Cliff > 1. Whitney-Gilman Area
 640
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Trad, Alpine 6 pitches
Moby Grape Cannon Cliff > 4. Moby Grape Area
 534
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13 Trad, Alpine 7 pitches
Recompense Cathedral Ledge > Prow Area
 383
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad 3 pitches
They Died Laughing Cathedral Ledge > N End
 497
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad
Underdog Rumney > Main Cliff
 872
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Sport
Lonesome Dove Rumney > Jimmy Cliff
 913
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Sport
Jolt Rumney > Hinterlands
 406
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Sport
Armed and Dangerous, and Of… Rumney > Armed & Dangerous (Ma…
 958
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Sport
Millenium Falcon Rumney > Main Cliff
 449
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Sport
Waimea Rumney > Waimea
 587
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b Sport
Peer Pressure Rumney > Bonsai
 498
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b Sport
Flying Hawaiian Rumney > Waimea
 345
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c Sport
Social Outcast Rumney > Bonsai
 360
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Sport
Technosurfing Rumney > Waimea
 253
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b Sport
Flesh For Lulu Rumney > Meadows > Holderness Corner
 269
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b Sport
More Classic Climbs in New Hampshire »

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