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Areas in New Hampshire

* Ice and Mixed Climbing 61 / 5 / 10 / 0 / 264 / 1 / 56 / 71 / 285
*Cannon Cliff 77 / 2 / 2 / 0 / 0 / 9 / 0 / 79 / 79
*Cathedral Ledge 174 / 21 / 6 / 0 / 0 / 13 / 0 / 0 / 191
*Pawtuckaway 74 / 2 / 67 / 669 / 0 / 1 / 0 / 0 / 764
*Rumney 187 / 558 / 20 / 267 / 0 / 8 / 0 / 29 / 1019
*Whitehorse Ledge 97 / 13 / 7 / 3 / 0 / 1 / 0 / 0 / 109
Dartmouth/Lake Sunapee 9 / 10 / 19 / 25 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 53
Great North Woods Region 36 / 17 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 53
Lakes Region 218 / 53 / 17 / 116 / 17 / 3 / 3 / 0 / 396
Southern NH and Seacoast 86 / 10 / 53 / 287 / 0 / 1 / 0 / 0 / 395
WM: Albany Area 45 / 2 / 1 / 0 / 0 / 1 / 0 / 0 / 49
WM: Bartlett / Jackson Area 62 / 58 / 2 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 119
WM: Crawford Notch 73 / 4 / 4 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 37 / 77
WM: Evans Notch 1 / 5 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 6
WM: Franconia Notch 73 / 14 / 3 / 23 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 6 / 107
WM: Kancamagus (Central) 119 / 25 / 4 / 0 / 0 / 8 / 0 / 1 / 145
WM: Kancamagus (Eastern) 146 / 39 / 0 / 25 / 0 / 1 / 0 / 0 / 208
WM: Kinsman Notch 11 / 3 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 14
WM: Lincoln Area 14 / 2 / 3 / 2 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 20
WM: North Conway 37 / 22 / 3 / 7 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 63
WM: Oliverian Notch 27 / 5 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 32
WM: Pinkham / Presidentials 52 / 4 / 2 / 5 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 2 / 63
WM: Waterville Valley 83 / 12 / 10 / 141 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 237
WM: Zealand Valley 47 / 5 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 4 / 52
ZZ Administrator's sandbox 1 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 1
Ze Indoor Climbing Gyms 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0
Elevation: 338 ft
GPS: 43.58, -71.719 Google Map · Climbing Map
Shared By: Jay Knower on Oct 11, 2006
Admins: Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey.LeCours, Robert Hall

Description

New Hampshire is the Granite State. The state motto is "Live Free or Die." Need more be said?

Actually though, the rock in this state comes in many forms, from the rounded boulders of *Pawtuckaway in the South to the clean fractured granite of *Cannon Cliff in the North. We even have a world class sport climbing area, though the cliffs at *Rumney are mostly schist. On the other side of the mountains, North Conway has its own scene and two of the best trad cliffs around. Cathedral and *Whitehorse Ledges are just minutes from town. All of this within a state that is small enough to fit into some of your National Parks out West.

Whether you consider yourself a hard core traditionalist or a sport climbing wunderkind, there is a wealth of climbing to be found in this small state. Plus, there's some die-hard Libertarian blood around here, so don't expect to pay any taxes. And fall around these parts can be pretty close to heaven.

New Hampshire's Regions

The Monadnock Region, Merrimack Valley, and the Seacoast have been grouped into a single subarea: Southern NH and Seacoast. *Pawtuckaway is a premiere bouldering destination in southern NH and is listed on the main page

The Lakes Region has undergone some major development in the New Durham Area, specifically at Longstack Precipice and Devil's Den by the Chinos Mountain Club. *Rumney is located within the Lakes Region map but is such a popular destination we've kept it on the main page.

The White Mountains region holds the majority of New Hampshire's climbing with a true mix of sport, traditional, and outback alpine experiences. We've broken this region into subareas (prefixed with WM) based on pockets of climbing areas, frequently named after the notch or town they are near. A rough overview map of the White Mountain region is here The most popular areas (*Cannon Cliff , *Cathedral Ledge, and *Whitehorse Ledge) are currently listed on the main page.

The Great North Woods region may be better documented by areas in the * Ice and Mixed Climbing section. This region has yet to be documented as well as the White Mountains but there is certainly plenty to explore here.

Getting There

Despite its diminutive size, New Hampshire should be found on most maps of the U.S.

Manchester hosts a major regional airport and would be the airport of choice for areas in the western part of the state (Rumney, Cannon etc. about 1 1/4 hr drive).

Portland, Maine has a good airport, and is only about 1 1/4 - 1/2 hr drive to areas like Cathedral and Whitehorse in the eastern part of the state. [Take Maine Rt 22W to Rt 114N to Rt 25W to Rt 113N to Rt 302W in Fryeburg ME, then 302W into North Conway; do NOT take Rt 302 all the way, esp. in summer)

The Boston airport is less than a three hour drive from most points in the state.

Ethics

The climbing areas in New Hampshire display diverse ethics, though some common threads can be found. No chipping, drilling of holds, or modifying of existed routes. Beyond that, consider the local area's specific ethics. What's acceptable at Rumney might not be acceptable at Cathedral, for example. If you have any questions, ask a local, get a consensus (no small feat, to be sure), and think before you act.

For those needing to study the Forest Management Plan 2005, last revised 2009, there is the link. The most climber relevant sections are (section-page) climbing: 1-14, 1-15, 2-22, 2-23, 3-15, 3-77>78 wilderness:1-22, 3-9>18, 3-47

Vegetation


New Hampshire has no shortage of vegetation growing on the rock. While climbers should try to be respectful of the local flora, sometimes it feels like we are fighting a losing battle with the mosses, bushes, and trees that continually try to engulf the rock. It's not uncommon to find that a cleaned route has returned to its original scruffy state after only a year of neglect. The remedy? Get out and climb the routes!

Peregrines

Please note that seasonal peregrine closures affect many cliffs in the state. Please check the information kiosks for more information. The closures are usually clearly marked.

4,537 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at New Hampshire

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
WI4+
Dracula
Ice
WI3
Pinnacle Gully
Ice, Alpine 3 pitches
V4 6B
Overlooked
Boulder
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Thin Air
Trad 4 pitches
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Whitney Gilman Ridge
Trad, Alpine 5 pitches
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Moby Grape
Trad, Alpine 6 pitches
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Recompense
Trad 3 pitches
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
The Beast Flake
Trad
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Lonesome Dove
Sport
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
The Book of Solemnity
Trad 2 pitches
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Waimea
Sport
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Airation
Trad 2 pitches
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Flying Hawaiian
Sport
5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
Flesh For Lulu
Sport
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Technosurfing
Sport
Dracula * Ice and Mixed C… > Frankenstein Ice… > Dropline Area WI4+ Ice
Pinnacle Gully * Ice and Mixed C… > Mount Washington… > Huntington Ravine - Winter Ice C… WI3 Ice, Alpine 3 pitches
Overlooked *Pawtuckaway > Trailside Boulders V4 6B Boulder
Thin Air *Cathedral Ledge > Thin Air Face 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b Trad 4 pitches
Whitney Gilman Ridge *Cannon Cliff > 1. Whitney-Gilman Area 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Trad, Alpine 5 pitches
Moby Grape *Cannon Cliff > 4. Moby Grape Area 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad, Alpine 6 pitches
Recompense *Cathedral Ledge > Prow Area 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad 3 pitches
The Beast Flake *Cathedral Ledge > Prow Area 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad
Lonesome Dove *Rumney > Jimmy Cliff 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Sport
The Book of Solemnity *Cathedral Ledge > Barber Wall 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Trad 2 pitches
Waimea *Rumney > Waimea 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b Sport
Airation *Cathedral Ledge > Airation Buttress 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Trad 2 pitches
Flying Hawaiian *Rumney > Waimea 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c Sport
Flesh For Lulu *Rumney > Meadows > Holderness Corner 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a Sport
Technosurfing *Rumney > Waimea 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b Sport
More Classic Climbs in New Hampshire »

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Photos

Jeffrey.LeCours
New Hampshire
Jeffrey.LeCours   New Hampshire  
Reposting this from someone else:

Oct 31, 2017 Alert - Rt 302 is CLOSED at the Sawyer River Bridge, about 4-5 miles west of Bartlett.. (although the actual wash-out is further up the road, it's illegal to get there.) Both Sawyer River Rd & Bear Notch are closed to vehicles, although a USFS ranger said Sawyer is open to hikers and bikers.
Between Glen and Bartlet Rt 302 is now open, but one lane. West side Rd is fine to 302. Nov 1, 2017
M Sprague
New England
M Sprague   New England  
"Just FYI though Rattlesnake Mountain is part of the White Mountain National Forest"
It is, but map wise it is in the NW tongue of the blue "lakes region" of the visitNH.gov regional overview map, probably because of Stinson Lake, just north of Rumney Village. Mar 10, 2016
caesar.salad
earth
caesar.salad   earth
Ditto, I also love the new setup. Great job. Just FYI though Rattlesnake Mountain is part of the White Mountain National Forest (the parts that aren't privately owned, anyway). Sep 1, 2015
Mike Thompson
Manchester NH
Mike Thompson   Manchester NH
I agree with Mark, I would love to see some info on the climbing in kinsman!

also, I love the new set up of the NH page! dividing it up between the areas was quite smart. Aug 27, 2015
M Sprague
New England
M Sprague   New England  
It is kind of crazy that there is no entry for even the general Kinsmman Notch area yet except a little in the ice section. Anyone with some knowledge and a bit of writing skill to help us out? It doesn't seem like John is ever going to get a new edition of 'Secrets of the Notch' out;) (Come on, John!) May 22, 2015
M Sprague
New England
M Sprague   New England  
I have it and generally like it. Some will be annoyed that the author used ski grades rather than V grades, doesn't give FA information and a couple of the areas were deliberately left light on details to keep the adventure. The book does have excellent photos with topos and maps though. It is by far the best for the area that I know of and should help you find a good time. May 4, 2015
Charlie Boulanger
Tilton, New Hampshire
Charlie Boulanger   Tilton, New Hampshire
Has anyone picked this guide up? I cant find any references to it anywhere but their website.

pawtuckawayclimbing.us/ May 1, 2015
Glenn Cilley
Laconia, NH
Glenn Cilley   Laconia, NH
Jeff I could only find Rock Rimmon and Pawtuckaway I will try to find it, I know I have it Apr 24, 2014
Jeffrey.LeCours
New Hampshire
Jeffrey.LeCours   New Hampshire  
Glenn, a physical copy of the one from Paul Duval from the late 70's? As a collector, I'm super jealous! Shoot me an e-mail if you'd let me sneak a peak - first beer is on me! :D Apr 23, 2014
Glenn Cilley
Laconia, NH
Glenn Cilley   Laconia, NH
I have a Joe English guide book Apr 22, 2014
Jeffrey.LeCours
New Hampshire
Jeffrey.LeCours   New Hampshire  
Was Joe English Hill (New Boston AF tracking station) removed from the site recently? I vaguely recall it having a section at mentioning that access was uncertain but I at least remember their being a page of discussion. Is anyone certain? Apr 20, 2014
James Otey   NH
Join us this Saturday January 5th for the Grand Opening of Evolution Rock + Fitness, New Hampshire's newest climbing gym. We will be holding tons of promotional events, and expect a high energy day among community locals. For details check out evolutionrock.com. We'd love to see you there!

Part of the proceeds will be going directly to the RCA. Jan 2, 2013
lee hansche
goffstown, nh
lee hansche   goffstown, nh  
This Friday Vertical Dreams Nashua will be hosting a Community Bouldering Fundraiser to support the Access Fund (the people who secured Rumney access for all of us)... Lets give back!
Friday the 9th from 7pm-10pm, $20 gets you all new boulder problems! Pizza! and we have a pile of prizes and swag for you!!!!!!!! Nov 7, 2012
Mike Robinson
Worcester, MA
Mike Robinson   Worcester, MA
I spoke with a couple of the folks that work at this rest stop and no problems with climbing there, I cleaned a couple of (new?) lines on the right corner of the boulder as you are walking to it from the parking lot, V4ish and very good! Aug 10, 2010
bradley white   Bend
The rest stop boulder was climbed in 1982? by Tom Bowker and Jay Golden. They may have actually led something up it, besides top roping on it. Jul 19, 2010
lee hansche
goffstown, nh
lee hansche   goffstown, nh  
as far as i know climbing at the rest stop is legit... Jun 23, 2010
matthewWallace
Sandwich, NH
matthewWallace   Sandwich, NH
Is it generally accepted to on the Rest Stop Boulder?I have seen it a few times from the highway and didnt know if it was ok to climb there. Jun 23, 2010
lee hansche
goffstown, nh
lee hansche   goffstown, nh  
i always called it the rest stop boulder... i dont know any names or grades but ive poked around on it... i know brett myers and company climbed some hard-ish highballs on the big boulder years ago... Jun 23, 2010
Jay Knower
Campton, NH
Jay Knower   Campton, NH  
Mike, I'm not sure of the name. It looks cool, though. Jun 23, 2010
Mike Robinson
Worcester, MA
Mike Robinson   Worcester, MA
Please help me with the name aof the boulder at the rest stop off of 93 south between exit 20 and exit 18 Jun 22, 2010
Jay Knower
Campton, NH
Jay Knower   Campton, NH  
A Granite State of Mind: youtube.com/watch?v=bX7nQrC… Apr 2, 2010
nhclimber
Newmarket, NH
nhclimber   Newmarket, NH
I'll get some info up, thanks for adding it. Aug 18, 2009
Jay Knower
Campton, NH
Jay Knower   Campton, NH  
I combined all of the crags off the Kanc into the Kancamagus Crags area. This includes Sundown, Woodchuck, Painted Walls, etc.

I also added Sundown's Outback Cliff under that area. Having never climbed there, I don't know much about it. Nhclimber, it would be great if you would add routes/info to that cliff. Aug 18, 2009
nhclimber
Newmarket, NH
nhclimber   Newmarket, NH
I was going to add some routes on sundown's outback cliff, but I didn't think that they really belong in the same section. It would be like lumping painted walls and rainbow slab together. Actually those cliffs are closer together than sundown main cliff and the outback cliff. Any thoughts? Jul 20, 2009
Adam Wilcox
Candia, NH
Adam Wilcox   Candia, NH
Yeah, Lost in the Sun (5.5) and Bore Tide (5.6). Each is 6-8 pitches or so. You park at the Willey Slide turn out, cross the river and wander up to the Slabs on Mt. Webster. You can find directions and a topo at NEClimbs.

I climbed Lost in the Sun in October '07 as my first decent multipitch trad climb. It was a good experience, and with more efficiency than I had at the time you could bag both routes in a day easily. All the belays are bolted and you'll only need a light rack. You will need two ropes to rap, as the routes don't top out. I'd reccomend going during a dry spell, lots of the protection bolts were under running water and I had to trailblaze on easy runout ground a little. May 19, 2009
nhclimber
Newmarket, NH
nhclimber   Newmarket, NH
TONS of climbing in Crawford notch. Mt Webster slabs has old and new routes some documented (bore tide, lost in the sun), some not. Mt willard has a ton of classics. Lots of slab climbing with a traditional bolting ethic. May 19, 2009
matthewWallace
Sandwich, NH
matthewWallace   Sandwich, NH
I heard a rumor of a multipitch slab climb in Crawford Notch (Willey Slide area?). The description I recieved was three maybe four pitches of 5.6ish slab climbing anyone know anything about this? May 18, 2009
Peter Beal
Boulder Colorado
Peter Beal   Boulder Colorado
Bombardment was my first 5.8 lead way way back and still stands as one of the great pitches of the grade in NH. May 2, 2009
lee hansche
goffstown, nh
lee hansche   goffstown, nh  
Yeah peter i was bummed about how dark to night footage was... but it was an important part of the adventure... glad you liked it over all... May 1, 2009
matthewWallace
Sandwich, NH
matthewWallace   Sandwich, NH
Lee cool video looks like a fun way to spend 17hrs... May 1, 2009
Peter Beal
Boulder Colorado
Peter Beal   Boulder Colorado
Agreed, though the Cathedral footage was a bit underexposed:) Thanks for posting it! May 1, 2009
Jay Knower
Campton, NH
Jay Knower   Campton, NH  
Nice video Lee. I especially like the Cannon footage. Wind blowing, getting lost. It really captures the Cannon experience. May 1, 2009
lee hansche
goffstown, nh
lee hansche   goffstown, nh  
jakob and i climbed cathedral, whitehorse, and cannon cliff within 17 hrs the other day (and night)... The idea was to do what we see as the 3 proudest cliffs in a day or so... now that we see how fun and easy it was taking the moderate routes we are thinking of doing some harder routes in the same style... here is a video of the adventure:
youtube.com/watch?v=d322L8D… Apr 30, 2009
Ladd    
We already invented the wheel on that one.

?? Jan 14, 2009
matthewWallace
Sandwich, NH
matthewWallace   Sandwich, NH
I am curious if anyone else thinks putting up indoor gyms on this site would be a good idea. I believe it would be because it would provided places for people to train and for people to go on bad outdoor days, also it will benefit the climbing community by developing newer climbers and it will benefit the gyms by bringing in new customers.

There would have to be regulations for this such as not posting routes it would just be a way to get the gyms more known and develop the climbing community.

What are your thoughts... Jan 13, 2009
matthewWallace
Sandwich, NH
matthewWallace   Sandwich, NH
I have a question, I hiked Rattlesnake Mountain in Holderness NH this is the mountain that looks over Squam Lake, not the one in Rumney, while doing this I walked down infront of the slabs there and found three short sport routes four or five bolts a piece, does anybody know anyting about these routes, before I get on them? Also does anybody know Trad routes that are there.


Thank you for any help in advance. Jan 7, 2009
john strand
southern colo
john strand   southern colo
Please check for seasonal Peregrine closures throughout the state Jun 24, 2008
jason seaver
Estes Park, CO
jason seaver   Estes Park, CO
Nice..... Thanks Bob.

John, I'll look forward to seeing your photos and contributions.

I love that photo in Webster's guidebook of you on Unwanted Guests. I've rapped past those non-existent footholds, and have always wondered what the hell you were standing on in that photo.

Good luck, Jason May 27, 2008
jason seaver
Estes Park, CO
jason seaver   Estes Park, CO
Hi John, I'd love to see some of your photos on this site. It would be great to have some contributions / stories from your days around NE. I know your slides can be scanned but you need a slide scanner which might be expensive, I don't know. Maybe you know someone with one?

Anyone else have better advice?

Cheers, Jason May 27, 2008
john strand
southern colo
john strand   southern colo
I do not climb in the area anymore since I live in southern colo now, but I would really like to contribute some routes and/or comments.
I have about 25 years climbing in NH as well as the rest of New England including about 50 F/A,s

Big question- most of my photos are slides, can these be scanned and put on the site ?\\

talk soon ,

john May 22, 2008
Jay Knower
Campton, NH
Jay Knower   Campton, NH  
All of New Hampshire's ice and alpine climbs have been moved so that they can be found under a single heading. If you are looking for (or planning on adding to) the ice routes in the database, then click on "NH Ice and Alpine Climbing" above. Feb 1, 2008

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