Type: Sport, 75 ft
FA: Ed Esmond
Page Views: 18,009 total · 115/month
Shared By: Jen Lloyd on Sep 5, 2007
Admins: Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey LeCours, Jonathan Steitzer, Robert Hall

You & This Route


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Description

Every time I climb this route I am ecstatic to have discovered it again. It's so good you can't even remember how good it is until you're back on it. Start upward after a small tree stump left of the belay bolt to a good stance below a vertical section, the crux of the route. Here a good sequence goes a long way. Get a good rest (which involves using your head--physically) then move up toward a mantel on big holds. The mantel can be scary, but is safe. Get another good rest then pull over the lip for a fun, technical bit of climbing to the top.

Location

A tricky one to approach but well worth it.
From the raised ledge at Main Cliff walk all the way left past the start of The Skewer until there is an 8ft drop off to another ledge. Down climb or do a short lower off from the single eye bolt. Once on the lower ledge walk about 15 feet left to a 2 bolt anchor below the climb.

There are other options:
-You may traverse left from the eye bolt on the main ledge past Gunboat Diplomacy and in to Millenium but i find this awkward.

-You may also do one of the newly added routes on the far right side of the Armed and Dangerous wall and top out on to the ledge below Millenium from there.

Protection

12 bolts to 2 bolt anchor

Photos