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Routes in Main Cliff

Ali Babbler S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
As The World Burns S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Beat Junkie S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Fat Man S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Fear of Abraham T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Gold Digger S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Goldbug S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Goldbug Finish S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Goldmember S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Gunboat Diplomacy S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Iron Man S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Know Ethics S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Little Big Man S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Millenium Falcon S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Peanut Man S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Rap Echo S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Rock Du Jours Direct S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Rock de Jours T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c X
Rocket Man S 5.13d 8b 31 X 32 E8 7a
Shiskebob T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a PG13
Simon Bar Sinister S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Skewer, The S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Sky Lab (incomplete) T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a A3 R
Soup to Nuts S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Space Shuttle T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Steel Curtain S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Supersize Me S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Sweet Polly Purebred S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Thang, The S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Thin Man S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Thing, The S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Underdog S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Via Ferrata S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Working Man T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
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Type: Sport, 75 ft
FA: Ed Esmond
Page Views: 14,968 total · 111/month
Shared By: Jen Lloyd on Sep 5, 2007
Admins: Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey LeCours, Jonathan Steitzer, Robert Hall

You & This Route


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Description

Every time I climb this route I am ecstatic to have discovered it again. It's so good you can't even remember how good it is until you're back on it. Start upward after a small tree stump left of the belay bolt to a good stance below a vertical section, the crux of the route. Here a good sequence goes a long way. Get a good rest (which involves using your head--physically) then move up toward a mantel on big holds. The mantel can be scary, but is safe. Get another good rest then pull over the lip for a fun, technical bit of climbing to the top.

Location

A tricky one to approach but well worth it.
From the raised ledge at Main Cliff walk all the way left past the start of The Skewer until there is an 8ft drop off to another ledge. Down climb or do a short lower off from the single eye bolt. Once on the lower ledge walk about 15 feet left to a 2 bolt anchor below the climb.

There are other options:
-You may traverse left from the eye bolt on the main ledge past Gunboat Diplomacy and in to Millenium but i find this awkward.

-You may also do one of the newly added routes on the far right side of the Armed and Dangerous wall and top out on to the ledge below Millenium from there.

Protection

12 bolts to 2 bolt anchor

Photos

Ladd

  5.10c
Ladd    
  5.10c
Protection: Very frequently bolted, I skipped many of the bolts because I could reach the next one form the same stance. It would be awesome it you were looking to break into 5.10c.

11 bolts (some eyebolts, some normal hangers) 1 piton (in a terrible loose block, skip it if you feel comfy)

Quick Clips for anchors.

Careful pulling your rope, mine got twisted something fierce and I had to climb it again to get it unstuck (1st time for everything). Sep 18, 2007
Ladd

  5.10c
Ladd    
  5.10c
My new favorite 5.10 at rumney.

Sorry Lonesome Dove Sep 18, 2007
David Aguasca!
New York
 
David Aguasca!   New York
 
Also, bring some extendable draws, they help with the rope drag...especially the first bolt. it might even be a good idea to clean the first bolt once you've clipped the second, and avoid the whole thing altogether.

but yeah...best 5.10 at rumney? definitely. Sep 29, 2008
Jeffrey LeCours
New Hampshire
 
Jeffrey LeCours   New Hampshire  
 
Not sure why I waited so long to get on this... wow! Great climbing! Sep 25, 2010
S. Neoh
  5.10c
S. Neoh  
  5.10c
Nice climb. I was surprised that I made a few hand jams on this route. The one I used for the middle crux was painful but solid.

We rapped off the low/start anchors at the end of the day. Be aware there are now (new) climbs below this set of anchors. I knocked some loose stuff off the short in-between section which is definitely still loose and dirty. You may want to double check for climbers below you before you drop rope and debris on top of them as you set up to rap. Jun 16, 2012
Matt Wilson
Vermont, USA
Matt Wilson   Vermont, USA
I was told that a fun alternate way to access this climb is by going up the Maltese Falcon. Has anyone tried this? Sep 24, 2012
S. Neoh
  5.10c
S. Neoh  
  5.10c
Matt, I cannot recommend it without reservations. See my post above. I rapped over Maltese and there was a good band of loose vegetated stuff between the top anchor of Maltese and the lower (rap) anchor of Millenium. I do not suppose this band has been scrubbed and cleaned up the past 3 months. Sep 24, 2012
Dom
New Brunswick Canada
  5.10c
Dom   New Brunswick Canada  
  5.10c
I climbed it last weekend and thought it was mildly overrated. Sure it's a nice climb but IMO, is definitely not the best 5.10 in Rumney. Oct 12, 2012
Matt Levine
Concord, NH
 
Matt Levine   Concord, NH
 
I had an awesome time on this the other day. I'd be hard pressed to think of a 5.10 that I have climbed that I have enjoyed more. Incredibly fun and varied climbing, it is much better when you are on it than it seems from the belay ledge. Unfortunately , I need to work on my crack skills before I can send this one. Hoping to knock this one out very soon.

To all the sport climbers like myself trying to get on all the 5.10s that you can, don't underestimate the need for crack skills on this one. It's just something you won't find much of outside the world of trad.

Climb this route! It's awesome! Mar 18, 2013
Eli .
GMC3500
 
Eli .   GMC3500
 
I'm pretty sure a microwave sized boulder just fell off of this route yesterday(10/5/2013). I don't know if it was on route or near it, but I was getting tossed around on Peanut Man when I heard about 30 people shout "Rock!" in a flock-of-gulls kind of way. Anyone know about this? Oct 6, 2013
Nick Grant
Natick, MA & Tamworth, NH
  5.10c
Nick Grant   Natick, MA & Tamworth, NH
  5.10c
The "Location" section of the MP route description above describes the belay anchor (an eyebolt) being at the bottom of Gunboat Diplomacy, and climbers are encouraged to traverse to the left over some "chossy" rock to reach Millennium Falcon. Don't belay at this eyebolt. Instead, continue to walk about fifteen feet farther to the left (you will have to down-climb an eight-foot rocky shelf), and you will find two chest-high eyebolt belay anchors. These anchors are directly below Millennium Falcon. Oct 24, 2013
lee hansche
goffstown, nh
 
lee hansche   goffstown, nh  
 
i hadn't noticed that they said to traverse in to it... i will change the directions right now... Oct 24, 2013
S. Neoh
  5.10c
S. Neoh  
  5.10c
The said rocky shelf (more like 7 feet I think) is not bad to upclimb and downclimb. I wore rock shoes for the downclimb but a good approach shoe should suffice. Passing the rope up and down makes it a little less nervy.
To me, this is top 10 5.10 at Rumney. 3 out of 4 possible stars. Oct 25, 2013
Brian M
San Diego, CA
 
Brian M   San Diego, CA
 
interesting moves, unfortunately most of them elude me and kinda just grunted through the to cruxes. Absolutely beautiful view, cant help smiling on the last section to the chains. Super rewarding climb. Also had a hornet land on my foot during this so I don't know if they are quite all dead.... Oct 26, 2014
Graham O.  
 
Exceptional route. My favorite 5.10 at Rumney Jul 26, 2016
Jay Morse
Hooksett, New Hampshire
 
Jay Morse   Hooksett, New Hampshire
 
I went up and totally cleaned the rocks off the belay ledge on a rainy weekday.

There will undoubtedly be more rocks up there in the future. If you see any rocks on this ledge, please pick them up and take them with you. The landing zone for rocks knocked off of this ledge is not a good one, with a very popular trail and some popular routes directly in the path. I watched it happen twice in just a couple hours from Millenium Falcon climbers last time I was climbing at A&D, and luckily no one was below.

Toxic Gumbo, Arugula Arugula, and Far From Feral (finishing on Arugula) are all good ways to get to the ledge. Just be mindful that someone else might come hop on Millenium while you're climbing up to it! May 25, 2017

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