Fear of Abraham
Avg: 1.9 from 34 votes
|Page Views:||2,042 total · 17/month|
|Shared By:||lee hansche on Jan 30, 2008|
|Admins:||Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey.LeCours, Jonathan Steitzer, Robert Hall|
DescriptionPlacing gear in schist is often tricky due to the strange grain of the rock. I recommend practicing placing gear at Rumney on routes like this because when you get out on granite or sandstone the gear seems so obvious and easy to place in comparison. It's also a great route to warm up on if you are getting on the routes in the 5.8 to 5.10 range that are found in the vicinity.
Climb the left facing left leaning crack/flake below the big ledge at Main Cliff's central area just right of the leaning boulder. After laying back and finger locking you will get to a few moderate face moves that lead to a nice stance and the 2 bolt anchor. The cool texture on the first half of the route make for really nice foot options.The gear can be tricky but solid.