Adventure Projects is hiring an Android engineer to join us in Boulder, CO
Mountain Project Logo

Routes in Main Cliff

Ali Babbler S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
As The World Burns S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Beat Junkie S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Fat Man S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Fear of Abraham T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Gold Digger S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Goldbug S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Goldbug Finish S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Goldmember S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Gunboat Diplomacy S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Iron Man S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Know Ethics S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Little Big Man S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Millenium Falcon S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Peanut Man S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Rap Echo S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Rock Du Jours Direct S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Rock de Jours T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c X
Rocket Man S 5.13d 8b 31 X 32 E8 7a
Shiskebob T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a PG13
Simon Bar Sinister S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Skewer, The S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Sky Lab (incomplete) T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a A3 R
Soup to Nuts S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Space Shuttle T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Steel Curtain S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Supersize Me S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Sweet Polly Purebred S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Thang, The S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Thin Man S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Thing, The S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Underdog S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Via Ferrata S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Working Man T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Order Wrong? Sort Routes
Type: Sport
FA: Jim Shimberg
Page Views: 3,782 total · 28/month
Shared By: lee hansche on May 18, 2007
Admins: Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey.LeCours, Jonathan Steitzer, Robert Hall

You & This Route


137 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do · View List

Your Star Rating:


     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:


-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
    -none-

Description

This is the corner climb between Know Ethics(5.10d) and Gold Digger(5.8+). It shares the hard technical nature of its neighbor to the left without being quite as hair raising (for some reason Know Ethics can be a bit heady).

As with all the climbs in this section start up easy ground on good holds for the first 20 or so feet and get nestled in to the corner where the business happens. Solid stemming and trust in your feet are a must on this one. Work your way somewhat awkwardly up the well protected crux corner to a stance above. At this point you meet up with Gold Digger (5.8+) right before its crux. Instead of going out right like that route you want to make a few more hard moves straight up and on to the anchors.

Location

There are 3 corner climbs on the right hand side of the orangish band of rock at center Main Cliff. This is the middle one.

Protection

7 bolts to anchor (quickies i think)
lee hansche
goffstown, nh
 
lee hansche   goffstown, nh  
 
I just climbed this route again recently and found it to have gotten harder for some reason... it looked like the left footholds in the corner had crumbled and i found i needed to do a long reach to get through the crux... Dec 29, 2007
matthewWallace
Sandwich, NH
  5.10d
matthewWallace   Sandwich, NH
  5.10d
I did this route for the first time and through the crux i only stemmed once the rest was face climbing, with a long reach to a small crimp. ton of fun though

FA: Jim Shimberg Jun 22, 2009
James Otey
NH
 
James Otey   NH
 
Yeah I used matthew's beta and it felt about right for the grade Jun 23, 2009
matthewWallace
Sandwich, NH
  5.10d
matthewWallace   Sandwich, NH
  5.10d
yeah i thought it was about right for the grade...

i thought a fun link up would be the start and crux of goldbug then the upper part and crux of gold digger has anyone done this link up? you would get a good rest between the two hard parts but it looks fun. Jun 23, 2009
twellman
Cambridge
 
twellman   Cambridge
 
Matt, I did that link up today. It was quite fun. I also did the link up of golddigger to goldbug corner finish before it, for a little criss-cross action. The clipping is a bit weird, but both are possible and fun. The crux of golddigger felt pretty hard for 5.8... some very small holds as you cross that upper face. Feb 15, 2010
matthewWallace
Sandwich, NH
  5.10d
matthewWallace   Sandwich, NH
  5.10d
yeah twellman, the face of gold digger, is hard it gets the 5.8 grade if you climb the corner until you can just reach over and get the big jug, staying on that really thin face is harder then 5.8 for sure. I have done the digger to bug link but not the other one yeah, Glad you enjoyed it. Feb 16, 2010
Matt Wilson
Vermont, USA
  5.10b/c
Matt Wilson   Vermont, USA
  5.10b/c
My friend Bob and his friend Ralph, 2 old school 60-something year old climbers, encouraged me to try this today with no beta (except that "the crux is well protected"). I am quite glad they did! This was a great climb with some really fun slab moves. Sep 16, 2012
S. Neoh  
I had my ass handed to me on this route recently. I felt quite horrible until I (just) read Lee's post about the crumbled footholds on the left wall and doing a long reach. I remember being able to smear a lot more in the corner BITD. What grade would people give the Digger to Bug linkup? I saw a friend do it the other day and it looked good. Sep 16, 2012
Matt Wilson
Vermont, USA
  5.10b/c
Matt Wilson   Vermont, USA
  5.10b/c
When I did this yesterday, I kept out of the dihedral. It was thin but not terrible. Sep 16, 2012
S. Neoh  
Matt, you wrote somewhere you are 6-foot tall; that makes a difference for the slab move/crux .... by far the hardest move on the route for me. Sep 16, 2012
Matt Wilson
Vermont, USA
  5.10b/c
Matt Wilson   Vermont, USA
  5.10b/c
You are correct. However, my climbing partner who climbed after me is about 5'4". He went even farther right than me, essentially staying on the arete. He did a thumb gaston on one of the micro crimps. Sep 17, 2012
Nick Grant
Natick, MA & Tamworth, NH
  5.10c
Nick Grant   Natick, MA & Tamworth, NH
  5.10c
A good route because there are a number of ways to do the crux section in the big copper colored open-book. It's not just, "Those are the moves, go for it!" Different sized bodies and different kinds of climbers will do it different ways. Nice'n technical and not strenuous at all. Aug 5, 2013
chris21
 
chris21  
 
S. Noah, that link-up(digger-bug) is a fun 5.8 Nov 21, 2013
The right quick clip at the anchor is getting a bit worn, the left looks fine as of 7/13/14. Jul 16, 2014
lee hansche
goffstown, nh
 
lee hansche   goffstown, nh  
 
It seems like a key old broke off in the crux, the upper left-hand gaston was missing... I was able to do it with similar beta but it felt more difficult... Feb 18, 2016
Graham O.  
 
A lot of fun Jul 26, 2016
JohnnyG  
The bolt at the crux has a loose nut today. This is the middle of the 3 bolts through the crux. It's finger tight now, but could use a wrench. Didn't have one with me today, and it will be several days before I get there again. Jun 15, 2017
Oh man, finally did this climb. Soooo interesting! I'm just shy of 5'-1" and thought some of the clipping stances were quite difficult. I can't reach the first bolt on the crux, I had to climb a little bit (sidepull/layback on the right) to get up a little bit to clip it. If you're as short as me, I recommend using a long, stiff draw if you don't want to commit to climbing up to that bolt. Third bolt on the crux was tricky as well. Overall, great route, very beta specific based on your height, but super fun and well protected if you can commit to climbing to the bolts. Felt much harder than some of the other 5.10d's that I've done around the area. Jul 17, 2017
S. Neoh  
While I am all for using a stiff quickdraw to get it into a bolt or fixed protection high above one's head, one should be aware that a "stiffie" might be dangerous to fall on once one is above the said draw. See Petzl note - petzl.com/I/en/Sport/Positi…

The safe way out is to replace the stiffie with a regular draw before one is above the former. Being a short person I am acutely aware of high placement of bolts and fixed gear. But, at least for Rumney, the seemingly ridiculously high placement is almost always for a good reason. Adding a lower bolt would add to the perception (inaccurate or otherwise) that Rumney sport routes are mostly over bolted. Jul 17, 2017

More About Goldbug

Printer-Friendly