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Routes in Main Cliff

Ali Babbler S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
As The World Burns S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Beat Junkie S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Fat Man S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Fear of Abraham T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Gold Digger S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Goldbug S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Goldbug Finish S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Goldmember S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Gunboat Diplomacy S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Iron Man S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Know Ethics S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Little Big Man S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Millenium Falcon S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Peanut Man S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Rap Echo S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Rock Du Jours Direct S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Rock de Jours T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c X
Rocket Man S 5.13d 8b 31 X 32 E8 7a
Shiskebob T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a PG13
Simon Bar Sinister S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Skewer, The S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Sky Lab (incomplete) T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a A3 R
Soup to Nuts S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Space Shuttle T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Steel Curtain S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Supersize Me S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Sweet Polly Purebred S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Thang, The S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Thin Man S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Thing, The S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Underdog S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Via Ferrata S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Working Man T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Type: Trad, 200 ft, 3 pitches, Grade II
FA: Bradley White, Bill Hardigan, 1986
Page Views: 2,120 total, 19/month
Shared By: bradley white on Aug 24, 2008
Admins: Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey.LeCours, Robert Hall

You & This Route


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Description

First pitch is the original start to Iron Man. 2nd pitch goes up right of the belay through face bulges and ramps to the same belay as Iron Man again. Third pitch is up the side walk in space right of the start to the third pitch of Iron Man. After the sidewalk traverse up and right to another great sidewalk ledge. Traverse ledge right to go directly up on small face holds to the top. I found the way to bring Bill up this steep wall at (5-8). Bill was in his comfort zone on this one as far as climbing it went. There was (5-8) on every pitch and maybe the finish is (5-7). Bill was thrilled and I repeated the ascent with other climbers. Seems to me climbers stopped knowing where this route went up. We would walk off from the top down the death slab (now the Predator access ladder trail). Rock De Jour was climbed in 1986.

Location

main cliff

Protection

traditional.

Photos

Jeffrey.LeCours
New Hampshire
Jeffrey.LeCours   New Hampshire  
"When history is written by one who has experienced it is truthful. Otherwise history becomes an interpretation of that truthfulness. I've done climbs when I wasn't even in N.H. with people I've never heard of. Isn't that remarkable. That's why I solely started postings at Mountain Project. But Every time I do change who, what, where and when to me it is in likeness to injuring one of my old friend's reputation. Anyway because of you both Lee and Mark I won't stop correcting the fictitious accounts of firsts done climbs we accomplished way back then. During our years together Bill overcame extreme fear of heights. He started climbing when he was 42 and he died at 57. I just had to right the wrongs about him. I'm still at it doing new climbs at the snake mostly far from the maddening crowd."

Comment by bradley white on August 27th, 2008 6:30 am Jul 20, 2012
M Sprague
New England
M Sprague   New England  
Bradley, I am very curious where this route you call "the original route orange crush" went. And, what was the history as it relates to the route now called "Orange Crush" at the cliff of the same name? May 6, 2009
Jay Knower
Campton, NH
Jay Knower   Campton, NH  
Bradley,

One of the reasons I believe in this site is that it allows the history to be corrected and made more accurate. I'm sorry that there have been misinterpretations of the history of your climbs. We are all fortunate that you are on the site and willing to correct any errors. Thanks for your posts. Aug 28, 2008
M Sprague
New England
M Sprague   New England  
The rock its self has changed quite a bit since Bradley did his FA. Huge blocks have come off from the "sidewalk in space", including one the size of a Cadillac that had pins and slings behind it, that slid off with barely a nudge with a bar. Aug 25, 2008
lee hansche
goffstown, nh
lee hansche   goffstown, nh  
i have lots of respect for the history that you and others can bring to this site and i hope that you don't stop contributing... i do think a description of the current "Rock De Jour" would be very helpful with all of its retrobolting included... i climbed the route as it is in wards guidebook as a wandering trad route which was still rather adventurous... now it is fully bolted i think and takes a bit of a different line... not as exciting but still quite fun... Aug 25, 2008