Avg: 4 from 36 votes
|FA:||Eric Mushial, 1999|
|Page Views:||10,306 total · 61/month|
|Shared By:||Jay Knower on Oct 27, 2006|
|Admins:||Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey LeCours, Jonathan Steitzer, Robert Hall|
Start on the raised ledge, on the far left-hand side. Beat Junkie climbs up the Skewer, a 5.12c fingercrack, before veering right up the overhanging wall. This fingercrack is not to be underestimated. For many, it is the crux of the route. Tall climbers may find a repreive by reaching left to the arete.
Once the crack is passed, the climbing remains pumpy until a great kneebar can be found. Rest here and then negotiate The Cave, a square cutout in the rock. The redpoint crux is higher still and consists of lockoffs on flat crimpers and a desperate slap to a small edge waaaay up on the upper slab.
On redpoint it is possible to fall from almost any move on the climb, from the terrible jams on the Skewer to the funky Cave moves to the dreaded topout on the slab. Because of its sustained climbing and varied moves, Beat Junkie is a deserved classic.