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Routes in The Main Cliff
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Ali Babbler S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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As The World Burns S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Beat Junkie S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c |
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Fat Man S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Fear of Abraham T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Going Nuts S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c |
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Gold Digger S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Goldbug S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Goldbug Finish S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Goldmember S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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Gunboat Diplomacy S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Iron Man S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Know Ethics S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Little Big Man S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Millenium Falcon S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Peanut Man S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Rap Echo S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Rock de Jours T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c X |
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Rock Du Jours Direct S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Rocket Boy S 5.13c/d 8b 31 X 31 E8 7a |
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Rocket Fuel S 5.14a 8b+ 32 X+ 32 E8 7a |
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Rocket Man S 5.13d 8b 31 X 32 E8 7a |
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Shiskebob T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a PG13 |
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Simon Bar Sinister S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Skewer, The S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c |
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Sky Lab (incomplete) T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a A3 R |
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Space Shuttle T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Steel Curtain S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Supersize Me S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Sweet Polly Purebred S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Thang, The S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Thin Man S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c |
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Thing, The S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Underdog S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Via Ferrata S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Working Man S,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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| Type: | Sport, 105 ft (32 m) |
| FA: | Eric Mushial, 1999 |
| Page Views: | 13,188 total · 59/month |
| Shared By: | Jay Knower on Oct 27, 2006 · Updates |
| Admins: | Jay Knower, M Sprague, Jeffrey LeCours, Jonathan S, Robert Hall |
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Description
Beat Junkie is the best 5.13b at Rumney if not in all of New England. Though Predator gets most of the attention because of it's photogenic position, Beat Junkie has better moves, better rock, and a better overall feel.
Start on the raised ledge, on the far left-hand side. Beat Junkie climbs up the Skewer, a 5.12c fingercrack, before veering right up the overhanging wall. This fingercrack is not to be underestimated. For many, it is the crux of the route. Tall climbers may find a repreive by reaching left to the arete.
Once the crack is passed, the climbing remains pumpy until a great kneebar can be found. Rest here and then negotiate The Cave, a square cutout in the rock. The redpoint crux is higher still and consists of lockoffs on flat crimpers and a desperate slap to a small edge waaaay up on the upper slab.
On redpoint it is possible to fall from almost any move on the climb, from the terrible jams on the Skewer to the funky Cave moves to the dreaded topout on the slab. Because of its sustained climbing and varied moves, Beat Junkie is a deserved classic.
Start on the raised ledge, on the far left-hand side. Beat Junkie climbs up the Skewer, a 5.12c fingercrack, before veering right up the overhanging wall. This fingercrack is not to be underestimated. For many, it is the crux of the route. Tall climbers may find a repreive by reaching left to the arete.
Once the crack is passed, the climbing remains pumpy until a great kneebar can be found. Rest here and then negotiate The Cave, a square cutout in the rock. The redpoint crux is higher still and consists of lockoffs on flat crimpers and a desperate slap to a small edge waaaay up on the upper slab.
On redpoint it is possible to fall from almost any move on the climb, from the terrible jams on the Skewer to the funky Cave moves to the dreaded topout on the slab. Because of its sustained climbing and varied moves, Beat Junkie is a deserved classic.
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