Type: Sport, 105 ft (32 m)
FA: Eric Mushial, 1999
Page Views: 12,820 total · 61/month
Shared By: Jay Knower on Oct 27, 2006 · Updates
Admins: Jay Knower, M Sprague, Lee Hansche, Jeffrey LeCours, Jonathan S, Robert Hall

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Description Suggest change

Beat Junkie is the best 5.13b at Rumney if not in all of New England. Though Predator gets most of the attention because of it's photogenic position, Beat Junkie has better moves, better rock, and a better overall feel.

Start on the raised ledge, on the far left-hand side. Beat Junkie climbs up the Skewer, a 5.12c fingercrack, before veering right up the overhanging wall. This fingercrack is not to be underestimated. For many, it is the crux of the route. Tall climbers may find a repreive by reaching left to the arete.

Once the crack is passed, the climbing remains pumpy until a great kneebar can be found. Rest here and then negotiate The Cave, a square cutout in the rock. The redpoint crux is higher still and consists of lockoffs on flat crimpers and a desperate slap to a small edge waaaay up on the upper slab.

On redpoint it is possible to fall from almost any move on the climb, from the terrible jams on the Skewer to the funky Cave moves to the dreaded topout on the slab. Because of its sustained climbing and varied moves, Beat Junkie is a deserved classic.

Protection Suggest change

11 fixed draws. There's a 12th (not fixed) draw (as of Oct 2021) right before exiting the roof onto the slab which is helpful for working out beta. I didn't clip this on point. A right knee pad is very helpful.