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Routes in Main Cliff

Ali Babbler S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
As The World Burns S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Beat Junkie S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Fat Man S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Fear of Abraham T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Gold Digger S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Goldbug S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Goldbug Finish S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Goldmember S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Gunboat Diplomacy S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Iron Man S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Know Ethics S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Little Big Man S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Millenium Falcon S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Peanut Man S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Rap Echo S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Rock Du Jours Direct S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Rock de Jours T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c X
Rocket Man S 5.13d 8b 31 X 32 E8 7a
Shiskebob T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a PG13
Simon Bar Sinister S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Skewer, The S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Sky Lab (incomplete) T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a A3 R
Soup to Nuts S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Space Shuttle T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Steel Curtain S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Supersize Me S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Sweet Polly Purebred S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Thang, The S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Thin Man S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Thing, The S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Underdog S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Via Ferrata S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Working Man T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Type: Sport
FA: Eric Mushial, 1999
Page Views: 7,876 total, 58/month
Shared By: Jay Knower on Oct 27, 2006
Admins: Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey.LeCours, Robert Hall

You & This Route


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Description

Beat Junkie is the best 5.13b at Rumney if not in all of New England. Though Predator gets most of the attention because of it's photogenic position, Beat Junkie has better moves, better rock, and a better overall feel.

Start on the raised ledge, on the far left-hand side. Beat Junkie climbs up the Skewer, a 5.12c fingercrack, before veering right up the overhanging wall. This fingercrack is not to be underestimated. For many, it is the crux of the route. Tall climbers may find a repreive by reaching left to the arete.

Once the crack is passed, the climbing remains pumpy until a great kneebar can be found. Rest here and then negotiate The Cave, a square cutout in the rock. The redpoint crux is higher still and consists of lockoffs on flat crimpers and a desperate slap to a small edge waaaay up on the upper slab.

On redpoint it is possible to fall from almost any move on the climb, from the terrible jams on the Skewer to the funky Cave moves to the dreaded topout on the slab. Because of its sustained climbing and varied moves, Beat Junkie is a deserved classic.

Protection

Bolts. A right knee pad is very helpful.
Rich Brereton
Pownal, ME
 
Rich Brereton   Pownal, ME
 
Anyone have any video of climbing this thing that they feel like posting? Thanks. Jan 22, 2016
lee hansche
goffstown, nh
  5.13b
lee hansche   goffstown, nh  
  5.13b
Surprised my self today by sending this route with relative ease after having a really hard time on it in the past. i think my lack of expectation helped me stay relaxed and just enjoy the movement which is spectacular! one of the best routes i've climbed at Rumney. Jul 2, 2013
chris deulen
Castle Rock
  5.13b
chris deulen   Castle Rock
  5.13b
Yeah, that must be it. An old schooler was there one day and he said, "My buddy lead that on gear in the 80's." "That" must've been Skewer. Oct 28, 2009
Jay Knower
Campton, NH
 
Jay Knower   Campton, NH  
 
To my knowledge, Beat Junkie was not led free on gear before Eric's FA. Maybe you're thinking of the Skewer, which was done on gear first. Oct 26, 2009
chris deulen
Castle Rock
  5.13b
chris deulen   Castle Rock
  5.13b
I thought this was led on gear in the 80s...Was there a prior FA to Mushial's? Oct 26, 2009
J. Albers
Colorado
  5.13b
J. Albers   Colorado
  5.13b
While I have not done a ton of stuff at Rumney (not a local), I would say that this route is the best that I have done there. For that matter, it is one of the better sport routes I have done anywhere. Its a long route on flawless stone with powerful, yet technical climbing, and it has both crack and face climbing with an exhilarating finish. Classic. Aug 23, 2009
One of the best at Rumney. The knee bar a few feet to the right of the one that Tommy is using is even better. No hands at the cave too. Oct 28, 2008