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Routes in Main Cliff

Ali Babbler S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
As The World Burns S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Beat Junkie S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Fat Man S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Fear of Abraham T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Gold Digger S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Goldbug S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Goldbug Finish S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Goldmember S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Gunboat Diplomacy S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Iron Man S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Know Ethics S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Little Big Man S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Millenium Falcon S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Peanut Man S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Rap Echo S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Rock Du Jours Direct S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Rock de Jours T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c X
Rocket Man S 5.13d 8b 31 X 32 E8 7a
Shiskebob T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a PG13
Simon Bar Sinister S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Skewer, The S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Sky Lab (incomplete) T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a A3 R
Soup to Nuts S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Space Shuttle T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Steel Curtain S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Supersize Me S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Sweet Polly Purebred S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Thang, The S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Thin Man S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Thing, The S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Underdog S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Via Ferrata S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Working Man T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Type: Sport
FA: Chris Smith 11/99
Page Views: 5,446 total · 40/month
Shared By: lee hansche on Mar 5, 2007
Admins: Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey.LeCours, Jonathan Steitzer, Robert Hall

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Description

Climb up the farthest right groove on the central Main Clif. Moderate and fun moves lead to a stance in a corner... climb the interesting corner to another stance and a hard-for-the-grade exit to the right from the corner. Easier if tall, a jug awaits just out of reach.

The easiest route in this area. Often dry when other routes of the grade are soaked.

"Digger-bug (5.8)" is a popular link up that does the 1st 2/3 of Gold Digger (5.8+) but then where that route has a puzzling step right (crux) you instead clip the last two bolts of Gold Bug (5.10c/d) out to your left as you climb up the very pleasant stemming corner above to the Gold Bug Anchors... This has become a popular moderate option and proves to be an easy way to set a toprope Gold Bug (5.10c/d)...

Location

Far right side of the central section of Main Cliff. Following the deepest groove in the area.

Protection

8 bolts to quick clips.
joe schmo  
 
An OK climb that serves as a good warm up. Watch out during the summer. I just was on it and there was a small hornets nest in a undercling/jug about halfway up the route. Luckily didn't get stuck but certainly got surprised. Jul 18, 2011
kenr  
I was following, but my leader (against my advice) avoided the tricky move right, and instead finished climbing sort of left-ward up to bolt anchors (which I assume are intended for the adjoining climb to the left, Goldbug). That finish didn't seem harder than 5.9, maybe less. Aug 5, 2011
Jeffrey.LeCours
New Hampshire
 
Jeffrey.LeCours   New Hampshire  
 
kenr: It's actually a popular linkup called digger bug. I think it goes at 5.8 or so and is an easy way to top rope Goldbug. I've never actually climbed to the anchors of Gold Digger. :) Aug 6, 2011
Matt Levine
Concord, NH
 
Matt Levine   Concord, NH
 
I have somehow avoided this route up until today. Big mistake! Fun and interesting moves, cool heady crux, great climb if you are looking for a moderate in the area. I'm going to have to do the diggerbug link up soon. Mar 10, 2013
Matt Levine
Concord, NH
 
Matt Levine   Concord, NH
 
Both quick clips at top are severely worn and showing a pretty significant groove. I would advise people to rap off this until they can be replaced. I have let the RCA know.

Just a reminder to not top rope through the fixed gear!!!!! Apr 16, 2013
Jon Po
Mahwah, NJ
  5.8+
Jon Po   Mahwah, NJ
  5.8+
I found the crux to be very exciting for the grade. Crux move reminds of of the Gunks! Jul 31, 2014
S. Neoh  
I think the Digger Bug finish is quite good; seems like the more natural finish to the route. If shortie like me, there is a move or two of 5.9/5.9+ in the Digger Bug finish. Aug 29, 2015

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