Type: Trad, TR, 40 ft
FA: Lee Hansche
Page Views: 1,086 total · 22/month
Shared By: lee hansche on Nov 16, 2014 with updates from Eli .
Admins: Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey LeCours, Jonathan Steitzer, Robert Hall

You & This Route


10 Opinions

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Description

Note: I will give it a cleaning soon.

A pretty fun line that I honesty like better than the routes to either side. I had looked at it for a while but never got around to climbing it. No, it isn't a classic, just worth telling folks about. Could be nice for an extra toprope lap after doing one of the adjacent routes.

Pull a fun little mantel move right off the ground, climb a few thin moves on solid rock to gain a crack. Follow the crack up and right to easier climbing off to the left.

Though this route is an independent line I am not in to throwing in bolts on every climbable route. I do think however that a bolted anchor may be worth while so that on a busy day there could be another TR line to keep folks entertained. Anyone have thoughts on that?

Location

Between Supersize Me and Fat Man.

Protection

A small rack from fingers to 1" or lead an adjacent route and top rope it (might need a directional).

Photos

M Sprague
New England
M Sprague   New England  
I agree, Lee. No need to grid bolt the face if it can easily be TRed. Nov 17, 2014
Ward Smith
Wendell MA
Ward Smith   Wendell MA
Put an anchor on it for sure. I like trad routes whose anchors can be accessed via sport routes. The climbs get done on TR by those without gear, and we don't end up grid bolted.

Ward Nov 19, 2014
jay davis
New Hampshire
  5.7
jay davis   New Hampshire
  5.7
short but kind of fun. i thought the protection was decent, but i could easily imagine it feeling pg-13 depending on the state of lichen overgrowth.

i went to the right at the top and finished at the anchors of fat man. i agree that it might be nice to have an independent anchor for this one, as it would give people a nice trad/TR option without adding a lot of bolts to the face. Aug 7, 2015
Eli .
GMC3500
 
Eli .   GMC3500
 
Dug some more holds out of this climb today with a nut-tool. It was pretty clean though, and definitely a fun route! Oct 26, 2015
lee hansche
goffstown, nh
  5.7
lee hansche   goffstown, nh  
  5.7
I scrubbed it down a bit yesterday looking better... almost done... then an anchor Oct 26, 2015