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Routes in Main Cliff

Ali Babbler S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
As The World Burns S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Beat Junkie S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Fat Man S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Fear of Abraham T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Gold Digger S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Goldbug S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Goldbug Finish S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Goldmember S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Gunboat Diplomacy S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Iron Man S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Know Ethics S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Little Big Man S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Millenium Falcon S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Peanut Man S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Rap Echo S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Rock Du Jours Direct S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Rock de Jours T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c X
Rocket Man S 5.13d 8b 31 X 32 E8 7a
Shiskebob T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a PG13
Simon Bar Sinister S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Skewer, The S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Sky Lab (incomplete) T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a A3 R
Soup to Nuts S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Space Shuttle T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Steel Curtain S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Supersize Me S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Sweet Polly Purebred S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Thang, The S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Thin Man S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Thing, The S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Underdog S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Via Ferrata S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Working Man T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Type: Trad, TR, 40 ft
FA: Lee Hansche
Page Views: 788 total, 21/month
Shared By: lee hansche on Nov 16, 2014 with updates
Admins: Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey.LeCours, Robert Hall

You & This Route


9 Opinions

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Description

Note: I will give it a cleaning soon.

A pretty fun line that I honesty like better than the routes to either side. I had looked at it for a while but never got around to climbing it. No, it isn't a classic, just worth telling folks about. Could be nice for an extra toprope lap after doing one of the adjacent routes.

Pull a fun little mantel move right off the ground, climb a few thin moves on solid rock to gain a crack. Follow the crack up and right to easier climbing off to the left.

Though this route is an independent line I am not in to throwing in bolts on every climbable route. I do think however that a bolted anchor may be worth while so that on a busy day there could be another TR line to keep folks entertained. Anyone have thoughts on that?

Location

Between Supersize Me and Fat Man.

Protection

A small rack from fingers to 1" or lead an adjacent route and top rope it (might need a directional).

Photos

lee hansche
goffstown, nh
 
lee hansche   goffstown, nh  
 
I scrubbed it down a bit yesterday looking better... almost done... then an anchor Oct 26, 2015
Eli
Lives in a truck
 
Eli   Lives in a truck
 
Dug some more holds out of this climb today with a nut-tool. It was pretty clean though, and definitely a fun route! Oct 26, 2015
jay davis
New Hampshire
  5.7
jay davis   New Hampshire
  5.7
short but kind of fun. i thought the protection was decent, but i could easily imagine it feeling pg-13 depending on the state of lichen overgrowth.

i went to the right at the top and finished at the anchors of fat man. i agree that it might be nice to have an independent anchor for this one, as it would give people a nice trad/TR option without adding a lot of bolts to the face. Aug 7, 2015
Put an anchor on it for sure. I like trad routes whose anchors can be accessed via sport routes. The climbs get done on TR by those without gear, and we don't end up grid bolted.

Ward Nov 19, 2014
M Sprague
New England
M Sprague   New England  
I agree, Lee. No need to grid bolt the face if it can easily be TRed. Nov 17, 2014