Type: Sport
FA: Ed Esmond 8/00
Page Views: 3,741 total · 23/month
Shared By: lee hansche on Mar 5, 2007 with 1 Suggestions
Admins: Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey LeCours, Jonathan Steitzer, Robert Hall

You & This Route


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Description

Ali Babbler is not a typical sport climb. In fact, this sequence is exactly like pitch 5 of The Prow at Cathedral. So put your trad brain on and off we go.
The very easy start gets you situated beneath the corner. The trick is getting up in to it. Use small feet on the left wall and a few crack moves and palm tricks until you can get in to a stemming position. From here you can get to the only really good hand hold on the route but don't worry, you don't need many. stem the corner to the top out, Have a seat.

This is a really tricky climb that I'm asked about often. With the right beta it can be nearly relaxing. With the wrong beta it can feel nearly impossible.

youtube.com/watch?v=_e9omIs…

Location

Down and left from the central Main Cliff. Just left of Little Big Man (5.11b).

Protection

5 bolts to anchor.

Photos