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Routes in Main Cliff

Ali Babbler S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
As The World Burns S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Beat Junkie S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Fat Man S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Fear of Abraham T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Gold Digger S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Goldbug S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Goldbug Finish S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Goldmember S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Gunboat Diplomacy S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Iron Man S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Know Ethics S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Little Big Man S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Millenium Falcon S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Peanut Man S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Rap Echo S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Rock Du Jours Direct S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Rock de Jours T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c X
Rocket Man S 5.13d 8b 31 X 32 E8 7a
Shiskebob T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a PG13
Simon Bar Sinister S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Skewer, The S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Sky Lab (incomplete) T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a A3 R
Soup to Nuts S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Space Shuttle T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Steel Curtain S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Supersize Me S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Sweet Polly Purebred S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Thang, The S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Thin Man S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Thing, The S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Underdog S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Via Ferrata S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Working Man T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Type: Sport
FA: Ed Esmond 8/00
Page Views: 2,706 total, 21/month
Shared By: lee hansche on Mar 5, 2007 with updates
Admins: Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey.LeCours, Robert Hall

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Description

Ali Babbler is not a typical sport climb. In fact, this sequence is exactly like pitch 5 of The Prow at Cathedral. So put your trad brain on and off we go.
The very easy start gets you situated beneath the corner. The trick is getting up in to it. Use small feet on the left wall and a few crack moves and palm tricks until you can get in to a stemming position. From here you can get to the only really good hand hold on the route but don't worry, you don't need many. stem the corner to the top out, Have a seat.

This is a really tricky climb that I'm asked about often. With the right beta it can be nearly relaxing. With the wrong beta it can feel nearly impossible.

Location

Down and left from the central Main Cliff. Just left of Little Big Man (5.11b).

Protection

5 bolts to anchor.
lee hansche
goffstown, nh
 
lee hansche   goffstown, nh  
 
Out for a chilly January day at Main Cliff today. Grabbed a little beta video for anyone who is still puzzled by this technical piece of corner climbing perfection. For full value I did the down climb as well. A fun puzzle of its own.
youtube.com/watch?v=_e9omIs… Jan 6, 2017
Nick Grant
Natick, MA & Tamworth, NH
  5.11c
Nick Grant   Natick, MA & Tamworth, NH
  5.11c
Ed Esmond strikes again! Tricky, tricky . . . Jun 6, 2016
Derek Jf
Northeast
  5.11c
Derek Jf   Northeast
  5.11c
Like trad-esque movement but find yourself among the tourbus of climbers at main cliff on a rainy day? Do this route!
Got on this route this weekend despite being wet.... Unreal how much commitment can be deposited into 25ft of climbing. "Vicious Stemming" is entirely accurate! My buddy who was climbing the 13s above came down to do it and was shut down by the style, cursed up a storm, and promptly proceeded to aid up the bolt ladder I left for him.
The mank was awful but not having the palms and toes slip at any moment was nice, getting to the chains was even better! Jul 19, 2015
matthewWallace
Sandwich, NH
  5.11c
matthewWallace   Sandwich, NH
  5.11c
Final sent this route today after getting on it once the other day after almost a year way from it, I really enjoyed this climb! Aug 3, 2011
Jay Knower
Campton, NH
  5.11c
Jay Knower   Campton, NH  
  5.11c
The list of comments on this route is longer than the route itself. :) Aug 25, 2010
matthewWallace
Sandwich, NH
  5.11c
matthewWallace   Sandwich, NH
  5.11c
Hey guys thanks for all the input, I am looking forward to getting back on it. This climb appeals to me because it is the complete opposite of my style so I want to conquer. Also for some reason the climb looks appealing, I know its short with very little exposure but something draws me to it... Aug 20, 2010
lee hansche
goffstown, nh
 
lee hansche   goffstown, nh  
 
Thanks S.noah, i agree with twellman that Ali offers something that is hard to find at rumney. The routes you mention are the classic rumney corners but if you do only the multi-star classics you miss sooooo much good climbing... I have done all the ones you mentioned and they are all good but Ali will remain on my list of must do corners :) Aug 20, 2010
twellman
Cambridge
 
twellman   Cambridge
 
I like this route quite a bit, and definitely think it is worth climbing, despite the fact that there are better routes at the grade. There are always better routes at the grade, but that's not gonna stop me from climbing all those wonderful, uncrowded "worse" ones.

And I think the "vicious stemming," as the description says, sets this route apart from others. Flyin Hawaiian offers stemming, but if you're looking for the vicious stuff you'll find it on Ali Babbler. Aug 20, 2010
S. Neoh  
Fair enough. Good points, Lee.
How about Flying Hawaiian, or Luau, or Silver Surfer instead? I bet I have at least one v. good orange among these. :) Aug 19, 2010
lee hansche
goffstown, nh
 
lee hansche   goffstown, nh  
 
you dont sound like a jerk and i hope i dont either, but I think how much you like this line depends on how much you like this style... i love this style so i love this route... i dont find retrospade to really fit the conversation since it is sooooooo different in style.... how ever if we were comparing apples to oranges id pick oranges so they can be compared ;)

PS. climb all the routes and you will learn more lessons... Aug 19, 2010
S. Neoh  
Risking sounding like a jerk, I have to say this route looked rather unappealing to me from the ground the last few times I walked by it; slightly chossy and full of spiders. IMHO, there are better 11b to 11d graded routes at Orange Crush and New Wave. For some adventure - bring a small cam and get on the 'forgotten' route of my buddy Tom - Retro Spade. WAY good, no giveme. Aug 19, 2010
lee hansche
goffstown, nh
 
lee hansche   goffstown, nh  
 
It shouldnt be a grovel dude... it should be a dance... really man if you hit it right it is effortless! work it out with the right feet and it will go easy... if you see me at rumney id be happy to give you play by play beta to unlock the beauty... Aug 19, 2010
matthewWallace
Sandwich, NH
  5.11c
matthewWallace   Sandwich, NH
  5.11c
Thanks Lee, I will try not pulling down on the small holds (which is what I was doing). Time to turn this sport climb into something more like a grovel :) Aug 19, 2010
lee hansche
goffstown, nh
 
lee hansche   goffstown, nh  
 
getting established in the corner is the crux as for beta i could give you lots if i saw you on it but as far as right now id say keep your feet way left and lean on the right wall... if you are pulling down on small holds there is an easier way for sure... i dont think i pull on anything on this one :)
good luck dude! Aug 18, 2010
matthewWallace
Sandwich, NH
  5.11c
matthewWallace   Sandwich, NH
  5.11c
Any hints for this climb? Is the crux getting established in the corner on the small crimps? Aug 17, 2010
lee hansche
goffstown, nh
 
lee hansche   goffstown, nh  
 
Im just trying to have some fun out there... Threre are enough wars going on out there lets not war with each other on this or other sites... Thanks very much for the kind words jon... Glad to inspire :) Aug 12, 2009
nhclimber
Newmarket, NH
nhclimber   Newmarket, NH
Just my opinion...

I think that the style of ascent is very important. I love clipping bolts as much or more than the next person. But I think that ascents like Lee's are visionary. I don't know the history of the climb or in what style the first ascent went up in. But I know that the rock we have just here in the granite state is finite. I not saying chop or every route should be x or r/x rated, but I feel that some things should be left for the bold and commited. Working somthing on tr then leading it or just enjoying the climbing and movement on an unleadable route is good enough for me. Rumney is rumney and I love the fact that it truly is a world class crag. I just hate to see something defaced that could be with a relative degree of safety for whomever wants it.

Sorry for the ramble but you asked. We can have our bolt wars on the other web site.
-jon
aka nhclimber/meclimber Aug 12, 2009
M Sprague
New England
 
M Sprague   New England  
 
nice job, Lee.
NH climber, why exactly is it a shame? I bet 95% at least of people who have climbed it have emjoyed having bolts on it. Aug 11, 2009
lee hansche
goffstown, nh
 
lee hansche   goffstown, nh  
 
Thanks man... i must admit ive clipped those bolts many times but it felt good to pass them up this time... this is a fantastic climb relative to its style... Aug 11, 2009
nhclimber
Newmarket, NH
nhclimber   Newmarket, NH
Great job Lee. Great style and a shame to have it bolted. Aug 11, 2009
lee hansche
goffstown, nh
 
lee hansche   goffstown, nh  
 
oh and i cleaned many webs and hairy spiders off of it... Aug 10, 2009
lee hansche
goffstown, nh
 
lee hansche   goffstown, nh  
 
I led this on trad gear today... fun times... pretty safe really... only a little spookier than clipping the bolts... Aug 10, 2009
NicoleKurth
Londonderry, NH
NicoleKurth   Londonderry, NH
:] my first 11c! so fun! Nov 3, 2008
NicoleKurth
Londonderry, NH
NicoleKurth   Londonderry, NH
SO MANY SPIDERS! but i really like the route :] Aug 24, 2008
Ladd

  5.11c
Ladd    
  5.11c
The crux is quite a bit easier it you have small fingers as it opens up a finger lock which is key for pulling up your right leg at the crux. Dec 5, 2007