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Routes in The Main Cliff
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Ali Babbler S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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As The World Burns S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Beat Junkie S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c |
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Fat Man S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Fear of Abraham T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Going Nuts S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c |
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Gold Digger S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Goldbug S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Goldbug Finish S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Goldmember S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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Gunboat Diplomacy S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Iron Man S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Know Ethics S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Little Big Man S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Millenium Falcon S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Peanut Man S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Rap Echo S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Rock de Jours T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c X |
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Rock Du Jours Direct S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Rocket Fuel S 5.14a 8b+ 32 X+ 32 E8 7a |
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Rocket Man S 5.13d 8b 31 X 32 E8 7a |
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Shiskebob T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a PG13 |
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Simon Bar Sinister S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Skewer, The S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c |
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Sky Lab (incomplete) T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a A3 R |
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Space Shuttle T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Steel Curtain S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Supersize Me S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Sweet Polly Purebred S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Thang, The S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Thin Man S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c |
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Thing, The S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Underdog S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Via Ferrata S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Working Man S,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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| Type: | Sport |
| FA: | Ted Hammond and Tom Armstrong 10/86 |
| Page Views: | 5,219 total · 26/month |
| Shared By: | Lee Hansche on Nov 8, 2008 |
| Admins: | Jay Knower, M Sprague, Jeffrey LeCours, Jonathan S, Robert Hall |
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Description
SO FUN!!! These days most people know this route as the first half of Beat Junkie (5.13b). Whether done as a start to that route or to its own anchor it is a must do climb for this section of cliff.
Head up the moderate start in the corner on to the second bolt. Stem up the corner until you can get a good hold out left and shift to a stance under the crux headwall. There are two ways to to do this section and your style will decide your fate. Either work the crack with your right hand and the arete with your left as you hug your way through the crux stabbing the slots with precision. Or, climb the crack with a super sequency collection of strong moves and tough jams (if you are good in cracks this seems easier, but not easy by a long shot).
After the crux you make a funky mantel on to a super slab and move left to a ring bolt (the old anchor) Don't bother clipping it. Make another tough move out right on to another slab, a big move gets you to the final wall of schist leading to the anchor. The climbing here is technical and crimpy and the movement is good but the rock quality is a bit worse, foot holds are still breaking off.
Head up the moderate start in the corner on to the second bolt. Stem up the corner until you can get a good hold out left and shift to a stance under the crux headwall. There are two ways to to do this section and your style will decide your fate. Either work the crack with your right hand and the arete with your left as you hug your way through the crux stabbing the slots with precision. Or, climb the crack with a super sequency collection of strong moves and tough jams (if you are good in cracks this seems easier, but not easy by a long shot).
After the crux you make a funky mantel on to a super slab and move left to a ring bolt (the old anchor) Don't bother clipping it. Make another tough move out right on to another slab, a big move gets you to the final wall of schist leading to the anchor. The climbing here is technical and crimpy and the movement is good but the rock quality is a bit worse, foot holds are still breaking off.
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