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Routes in Main Cliff

Ali Babbler S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
As The World Burns S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Beat Junkie S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Fat Man S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Fear of Abraham T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Gold Digger S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Goldbug S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Goldbug Finish S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Goldmember S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Gunboat Diplomacy S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Iron Man S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Know Ethics S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Little Big Man S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Millenium Falcon S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Peanut Man S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Rap Echo S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Rock Du Jours Direct S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Rock de Jours T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c X
Rocket Man S 5.13d 8b 31 X 32 E8 7a
Shiskebob T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a PG13
Simon Bar Sinister S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Skewer, The S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Sky Lab (incomplete) T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a A3 R
Soup to Nuts S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Space Shuttle T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Steel Curtain S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Supersize Me S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Sweet Polly Purebred S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Thang, The S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Thin Man S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Thing, The S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Underdog S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Via Ferrata S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Working Man T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Type: Sport
FA: Ted Hammond and Tom Armstrong 10/86
Page Views: 2,768 total, 25/month
Shared By: lee hansche on Nov 8, 2008
Admins: Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey.LeCours, Robert Hall

You & This Route


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Description

SO FUN!!! These days most people know this route as the first half of Beat Junkie (5.13b). Whether done as a start to that route or to its own anchor it is a must do climb for this section of cliff.

Head up the moderate start in the corner on to the second bolt. Stem up the corner until you can get a good hold out left and shift to a stance under the crux headwall. There are two ways to to do this section and your style will decide your fate. Either work the crack with your right hand and the arete with your left as you hug your way through the crux stabbing the slots with precision. Or, climb the crack with a super sequency collection of strong moves and tough jams (if you are good in cracks this seems easier, but not easy by a long shot).

After the crux you make a funky mantel on to a super slab and move left to a ring bolt (the old anchor) Don't bother clipping it. Make another tough move out right on to another slab, a big move gets you to the final wall of schist leading to the anchor. The climbing here is technical and crimpy and the movement is good but the rock quality is a bit worse, foot holds are still breaking off.

Location

On the left end of the ledge look for the fixed long draw on the first bolt in a corner below an awesome cracked face.

Protection

11 Bolts to anchors. The the first 5 draws are fixed--the rest are not.

Photos

lee hansche
goffstown, nh
 
lee hansche   goffstown, nh  
 
I ended up sending it this week so my draws are no longer hanging...

As for the grade... It could go either way for me, i won't complain about 12d but it could just as well be 13a... I have done 13b with less effort than this route but then again Big Kahuna took me longer than any other route ever so... who knows... if you like it, do it... :)

Really good route! I ended up just jamming the crux hand over hand... Tough crack climbing for sure! I can't wait for Beat Junky now :) May 10, 2013
lee hansche
goffstown, nh
 
lee hansche   goffstown, nh  
 
Another trick that helps:
climb gunboat diplomacy 5.11b/c (not a favorite route of mine but...) and swing right to place draws before taking goes on Skewer (if you don't like the long-ish spacing of the bolts).... i left draws on it today but i plan to clean them when i've done the route cause it is pretty simple to set it up... Apr 16, 2013
Rajiv Ayyangar
Portland, ME
Rajiv Ayyangar   Portland, ME
Stow - thanks for the details! I think if you thumb-stack, the crux of Beat Junkie is most definitely NOT the crack, but rather the crimps after the cave. Mar 7, 2013
stow
  5.13a
stow  
  5.13a
Not many people do this route -- possibly b/c of the spaced bolts and scary slightly lichen-y slabs.

I think this works to make it reasonable:

A short draw on the last bolt of the crack makes it easier to avoid foot entanglement as you enter the first slab.

A long sling with a short draw on the second slab bolt (so it's just hanging over the edge) means you can clip it from the top of the crack to protect the first slab and also the rope won't rub on the edge if you fall as you do the second slab.

Just skip the ring bolt.

All other bolts are normal draws though a long one before the mantel means you may be able to thank god clip from the start of the second slab.

High quality route only marred by proximity to ultra-classic Beat Junkie and strange -possibly historical -grading (I mean the crux of Beat Junkie is the crack, am I crazy?)

Compared to how many sessions other similarly graded climbs take for me - I believe this is 13a. I got 2 other 13s quicker than this one. Sep 17, 2012
lee hansche
goffstown, nh
 
lee hansche   goffstown, nh  
 
I left some draws up on the upper part of the route today if that makes it more attractive to you all go for it, its all fixed as of today...

after the ring bolt things get a little funky... i dont understand the bolt placements much and the climbing stays hard till you hit the schist above where it only eases a little... Nov 12, 2008
Chris Duca
Havertown, PA
  5.12c
Chris Duca   Havertown, PA
  5.12c
Great description, Lee. A standout route among a wall of 4 star gems, indeed! Nov 10, 2008