Mountain Project Logo

Routes in Main Cliff

Ali Babbler S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
As The World Burns S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Beat Junkie S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Fat Man S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Fear of Abraham T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Gold Digger S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Goldbug S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Goldbug Finish S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Goldmember S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Gunboat Diplomacy S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Iron Man S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Know Ethics S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Little Big Man S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Millenium Falcon S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Peanut Man S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Rap Echo S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Rock Du Jours Direct S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Rock de Jours T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c X
Rocket Man S 5.13d 8b 31 X 32 E8 7a
Shiskebob T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a PG13
Simon Bar Sinister S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Skewer, The S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Sky Lab (incomplete) T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a A3 R
Soup to Nuts S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Space Shuttle T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Steel Curtain S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Supersize Me S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Sweet Polly Purebred S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Thang, The S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Thin Man S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Thing, The S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Underdog S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Via Ferrata S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Working Man T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Type: Sport
FA: Chris Smith, 1999
Page Views: 25,432 total, 187/month
Shared By: Jay Knower on Oct 23, 2006
Admins: Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey.LeCours, Robert Hall

You & This Route


481 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do

Your Star Rating:


     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:


-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
    -none-

Description

Underdog is deservedly the most popular 5.10 at Rumney. The route is long and the views of the Baker River Valley are superb. And because of the capping roofs, Underdog is one of the few sub 5.12s at Rumney that stays dry in the rain.

Scramble up easy rock to the first bolt. Here the angle steepens. The technical crux of the route involves moving left near the fourth bolt. If you find yourself groping on desperate slopers, you are probably missing something. Continue past the distinctive "triangle," a hole in the rock that is easily seen from the ground. A thin move or two brings you to the last moves before the anchor. Though initially confounding, these moves yield with some thought.

From the anchors of Underdog, it is easy to traverse (on belay, of course) left to the anchors of Peanut Man or Thin Man for toproping or draw-hanging purposes.

Protection

9 bolts.
A classic for a reason, though I've always thought a little overhyped. Still loads of fun. Contrary to some of the other commenters, I find this thing feels a little spicey and exposed on lead. First time I was on it it got into my head a bit, despite being below my grade. Oct 29, 2017
lee hansche
goffstown, nh
 
lee hansche   goffstown, nh  
 
Here is where you can get the pigtail/ramhorn anchors team-tough.com/ Sep 19, 2017
Branden Michelkamp
Salt Lake City
Branden Michelkamp   Salt Lake City
Does anyone know the brand of "hook" at the end of the chains for this anchor? I have never seen a hook like that and I liked the way it worked. I couldn't find anything similar on Fixie or Petzl or Metolius Sep 19, 2017
thebmags
Outback, Subaru
 
thebmags   Outback, Subaru
 
nothing to say but absolutely amazing, gets better everytime. Also dry in the rain Sep 13, 2014
Jon Po
Mahwah, NJ
  5.10a
Jon Po   Mahwah, NJ
  5.10a
That hold is so obvious that it's hard to find! Jul 31, 2014
Nick Grant
Natick, MA & Tamworth, NH
  5.10a
Nick Grant   Natick, MA & Tamworth, NH
  5.10a
I agree with Soon. After the fourth bolt, if you don't find a certain hidden hold (and I didn't), you just might fall off (and I did). And once you've got that "mail slot" hold, it's a dicey right handhold (for a 10a) before you throw with the left to that jug way up above. Jul 15, 2014
S. Neoh
  5.10a
S. Neoh  
  5.10a
Pretty sure the technical crux is moving left around the fourth bolt using the marginal left foothold. Shorties like me (5'5") and most shorter (female) climbers feel this way. Foot work should solve the "reach problem" to the huge jug on the rail high up on the climb. Dec 10, 2013
Matt Levine
Concord, NH
 
Matt Levine   Concord, NH
 
J, it's tough without finding the good crimp up and to the left of the undercling. I'm lucky that I have a big ape index and can go straight for the jug from the undercling with a little reach and some high footwork. Agreed on it being a tricky section. One of my favorite routes at Rumney. Dec 10, 2013
Eric Chabot
Salt Lake City, UT
Eric Chabot   Salt Lake City, UT
Awesome route!

My partner found some sweet beta that makes the crux super smooth and fun with no traversing. If you've already done the route, try going straight up instead next time!

I climbed this the other day while it was literally pouring rain. Sep 13, 2013
EpicWally  
 
I just got into leading 10s, and this route was AMAZING. As for taking falls on this one, I did take a whipper off the top, just before the anchors. The fall itself was fine, but I did catch my foot on one of the ledges and sprained it a bit. Otherwise I have to agree with all the comments above: it's a must-climb route, that is well bolted, with very safe falls. Jun 29, 2013
Matt Wilson
Vermont, USA
 
Matt Wilson   Vermont, USA
 
I have fallen coming out of the crux traverse. It very much startled me (my belayer fell over catching me), but it was quite clean. No nasty bumps into the rock or anything :) Feb 5, 2013
S. Neoh
  5.10a
S. Neoh  
  5.10a
I have never taken a whip on this route but being a route by Chris, I believe all the falls will be OK. And this is one of the best .10a sport routes I have done anywhere in the US. Oct 13, 2012
lee hansche
goffstown, nh
 
lee hansche   goffstown, nh  
 
they are fine... there are steeper 10s with even cleaner falls but this is a great route to break in to the grade... Oct 13, 2012
Jcomeau
North Conway
Jcomeau   North Conway
How are the falls on this? Looking to start breaking into .10's Oct 9, 2012
matthewWallace
Sandwich, NH
  5.10a
matthewWallace   Sandwich, NH
  5.10a
So i have been climbing for just over 3 years mainly in Rumney and I had never done this route until yesterday, it was a treat, THIS ROUTE IS AWESOME, I am seriously saddened i had not done this route before, if you are in Rumney and you can climb 5.10a be sure to do this route! there isn't any bad climbing on the route! 4 stars for sure! Jan 28, 2010
GMBurns
  5.10a PG13
GMBurns  
  5.10a PG13
Tricky sequence through the middle and a tough / awkward finish, but a really nice route overall. Jul 15, 2008