Type: Sport
FA: jim shimburg
Page Views: 1,162 total · 8/month
Shared By: lee hansche on Jan 22, 2008
Admins: Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey LeCours, Jonathan Steitzer, Robert Hall

You & This Route


3 Opinions

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Description

It's not so much that its a bad route it's just so reachy that if you're not 7ft tall the holds are hard to get to. However if you can reach them (I'm 6'2" and I can just barely make the reaches) the moves are really cool the holds are great and the top out I found to be technical and super fun. If you like this style of climbing--BIG moves to good crimps and a technical top out--hop on it.

Climb Goldbug (5.10b) or the Digger-bug link up (5.9) to the Goldbug anchor. Clip a long runner to the anchor and step right to the nice ledge.

There are very few moves but they are big ones. Move up to a good crimp left of the first draw. Make a huge move up and right to a half pad incut crimp. Make another big move up and left to a nice flat full pad crimp. The feet kinda suck here so making the last big move to a sloper is a bit challenging. Once you get the sloper you make techy moves heading right until you can pull a mantel on to a ledge and climb a few easy moves to the anchors.

Location

From the Gold Bug anchors, head up and right following bolts up a short overhung wall.

Protection

From the Goldbug anchor there are 4 bolts to a 2 bolt anchor.

Long draws may be helpful to reduce rope drag on the lower pitch.

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