Type: Sport
FA: jim shimburg
Page Views: 882 total · 7/month
Shared By: lee hansche on Jan 22, 2008
Admins: Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey LeCours, Jonathan Steitzer, Robert Hall

You & This Route


2 Opinions

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Description

It's not so much that its a bad route it's just so reachy that if you're not 7ft tall the holds are hard to get to. However if you can reach them (I'm 6'2" and I can just barely make the reaches) the moves are really cool the holds are great and the top out I found to be technical and super fun. If you like this style of climbing--BIG moves to good crimps and a technical top out--hop on it.

Climb Goldbug (5.10b) or the Digger-bug link up (5.9) to the Goldbug anchor. Clip a long runner to the anchor and step right to the nice ledge.

There are very few moves but they are big ones. Move up to a good crimp left of the first draw. Make a huge move up and right to a half pad incut crimp. Make another big move up and left to a nice flat full pad crimp. The feet kinda suck here so making the last big move to a sloper is a bit challenging. Once you get the sloper you make techy moves heading right until you can pull a mantel on to a ledge and climb a few easy moves to the anchors.

Location

From the Gold Bug anchors, head up and right following bolts up a short overhung wall.

Protection

From the Goldbug anchor there are 4 bolts to a 2 bolt anchor.

Long draws may be helpful to reduce rope drag on the lower pitch.

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M Sprague
New England
M Sprague   New England  
Heinous for me. I couldn't touch the thing even when I was climbing a number grade harder. VERY reachy with reachy clips. Jim is a monkey man.

FA - Jim Shimberg Mar 29, 2011
M Sprague
New England
M Sprague   New England  
Beta spoiler- Got back on this yesterday and quickly found beta that made it feel almost easy for the grade and not crazy reachy. I don't know how I missed it before. I start to the right and go up to a good right hand side pull that gets me the reach to the crimp up and left ( the half pad incut Lee mentions). Match the crimp and dyno up left to a good hold. Then it is just popping to the pinchy lip, matching, foot out right and reach left to a big pinchy sidepull.

Rumor has it that the bolts will be replaced soon with nice big glue-ins(if not closed for the birds) Hopefully they will be a little easier to clip. Mar 18, 2013
Jeffrey LeCours
New Hampshire
Jeffrey LeCours   New Hampshire  
What's the word on that rumor? :) Jul 30, 2015
M Sprague
New England
M Sprague   New England  
Hasn't happened yet. Smitty and I got called to other locations. This whole 'life interfering with climbing and route fixing up' thing is for the birds :)) Jul 30, 2015