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Routes in Main Cliff

Ali Babbler S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
As The World Burns S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Beat Junkie S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Fat Man S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Fear of Abraham T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Gold Digger S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Goldbug S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Goldbug Finish S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Goldmember S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Gunboat Diplomacy S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Iron Man S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Know Ethics S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Little Big Man S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Millenium Falcon S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Peanut Man S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Rap Echo S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Rock Du Jours Direct S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Rock de Jours T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c X
Rocket Man S 5.13d 8b 31 X 32 E8 7a
Shiskebob T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a PG13
Simon Bar Sinister S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Skewer, The S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Sky Lab (incomplete) T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a A3 R
Soup to Nuts S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Space Shuttle T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Steel Curtain S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Supersize Me S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Sweet Polly Purebred S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Thang, The S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Thin Man S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Thing, The S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Underdog S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Via Ferrata S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Working Man T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Type: Sport, 180 ft, 2 pitches
FA: cleaned and bolted by Mark Sprague, but much of the terrain previously climbed by others
Page Views: 7,429 total, 60/month
Shared By: M Sprague on Sep 18, 2007
Admins: Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey.LeCours, Robert Hall

You & This Route


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Description

This is perhaps one of the best 5.9s at Rumney (at least for it's airy positioning), offering two pitches of climbing on the far right side of the Iron Man Wall. The first pitch warms you up with 100 ft of scrambly to quality moderate (5.7) climbing following corner systems. The second starts out with a bang, with an exposed, pumpy traverse out flakes. Stay low on the flakes and keep traversing until you are about 8 feet past the last bolt in the overhang and it starts to feel scary befor pulling over if you want to keep the climbing easier. Then a short slab gets you to an undercling and a big reach up to another overhanging hand traverse going right and mantel to a rest. Move out right on to the exposed face, then up to the final airy finish. This route is a great outing with excellent positioning and views of the Main Cliff and the Baker River valley below.

The 2nd pitch leader should be comfortable with 5.9 as the traverse moves off the first anchor are relatively stiff and intimidating (good positive holds though ;-)

Location

Starts on the right hand side of the Iron Man Wall section. Just right of Gold Digger, climb up to an easy right leaning scrambly ramp, then up into a nice corner, following eyebolts to an excellent belay ledge. 5.7 (Breaking off left and following another corner with regular hangered bolts leads you to the second pitch anchor of Goldbug, and The Thang above)

Pitch 2: Head out left on the big flake system past a few bolts, then mantel and head up to a notch with an overhang above. Undercling and reach the top of the overhang and hand traverse right until you can mantel over. Get a shake, then head right around the arete into the exposure and up. Finishes straight up on flakes to a bolted anchor. From here, lower back to the belay and belay your second. From the belay you can just get down to the base the way you came with a 60m rope. Be especially careful of loose stones on your descent and while pulling the rope as there are usually people below.

Protection

All bolted with bolted anchors. Take some slings and longer draws.
Nick Grant
Natick, MA & Tamworth, NH
  5.9
Nick Grant   Natick, MA & Tamworth, NH
  5.9
As others have recommended, it's easiest to climb the second pitch, lower to the ledge belay, and then the other climber leads it or climbs it on a toprope. Jul 20, 2017
Kurt G.
Reading, PA
  5.9+
Kurt G.   Reading, PA
  5.9+
the second pitch is very confusing for following bolt lines as there are several options up the wall. the first pitch is worth it for the view of the valley Oct 12, 2016
Ming
  5.9
Ming  
  5.9
I can't imagine a more exposed climb at Rumney at the grade. Definitely amazing and one of the best 5.9's at Rumney! Sooo airy. The undercling block move is not to be under estimated and I think is now the crux of the rout (not the overhand jug haul of a start). Must do in the fall! Oct 14, 2013
M Sprague
New England
 
M Sprague   New England  
 
I kind of make a few moves angling left from just as you start heading up the wall from the initial scrambly section. That must be what he was referring to. I could see how that could be confusing though. The guidebook drawing is a little messed up there. The key is to stick with the glue-in bolts. The regularly hangered Rawl bolts that follow the corner out left to the Goldbug second pitch anchors are what Jay described. The steeply overhanging flake above is actually a 10c the Thang, though it may not look like it. The Thang anchors fell off in the great rockfall, so you currently have to lower off the last two bolts of the route. Jul 1, 2013
Jay Morse
Hooksett, New Hampshire
  5.9+
Jay Morse   Hooksett, New Hampshire
  5.9+
For some reason Ward Smith's guidebook says "break up and left" as part of the description for pitch1. The first pitch never trends left at all. You trend right until climbing straight up to the anchor. There are some bolts that trend left which will lead you to the goldbug anchor, staring up at 5.12c! Don't get fooled like me! We were able to traverse over to the true anchor just fine (5.6 climbing id say) but it wasn't ideal.

We did this on a rainy day. Parts of pitch 1 were wet, but it's no big deal if you're comfortable with 5.7. Pitch2 was perfectly dry less than an hour after some rain, though there were some drops coming off the overhang at the top hitting me every once in a while. It seems to be totally protected.

This is one of the best climbs I've done at rumney! The 2nd pitch has gorgeous views and positioning, a great variety of interesting moves, and a definite feeling of adventure. Jul 1, 2013
Just got on this for the first time a couple of weeks ago. Thought (incorrectly) that I had done it before so I didn't take a look at the guide book. A bit surprised when I got to the top of the first pitch and looked straight up to what seemed like harder than 5.9+, so I started to traverse out left on the big flake until finding the good holds to move upwards and onto the large low angle slab. I explored out left as I couldn't see any bolts after the one with a chain link on it. Seemed like it was going to be tough so I ended up going right and making it up to the top for the onsight, but it was definitely more of an adventure than I was expecting! Really fun route! May 7, 2013
S. Neoh
 
S. Neoh  
 
Spot on, Mark, about this being a really good and fun 5.9 at Rumney.
Sorry I did not know you were at A&D and Main Cliff yesterday. I would have headed over to say "hi" and climb with you. Apr 22, 2013
Matt Levine
Concord, NH
  5.9+
Matt Levine   Concord, NH
  5.9+
Looking forward to it. Thanks! Apr 22, 2013
M Sprague
New England
 
M Sprague   New England  
 
Nope, just a scary loose block gone. I haven't been on the route for quite a while until yesterday, but the reach move from the big undercling seemed a little harder than I remember it. Maybe I used to push one of my feet off the block. More likely I am just weaker, lol. Getting back on it did confirm my impression that it is one of if not the best 5.9s at Rumney though. Get on it! It will blow the cobwebs out of you head the first time you do it. Apr 22, 2013
Matt Levine
Concord, NH
  5.9+
Matt Levine   Concord, NH
  5.9+
Mark, just to confirm, this rock wasn't anything essential to the route, correct? Jours is on my short term to do list. If it was just a scary loose block it's a good thing its gone given its position. Apr 22, 2013
M Sprague
New England
 
M Sprague   New England  
 
The bathtub sized rock is now gone from the second pitch. Apr 22, 2013
Matt Wilson
Vermont, USA
Matt Wilson   Vermont, USA
Hey now, I climbed only the first pitch, and I still found this to be a nice fun route, with a really fun crux move (although I won't mark an ascent or rate the climb until I have done both pitches clean). Sep 23, 2012
Chris Duca
Havertown, PA
  5.9
Chris Duca   Havertown, PA
  5.9
B-B-Butress is the best 5.9 @ Rumney, without a doubt. Nov 4, 2011
kenr
 
kenr  
 
P2 is still great in 2011. Aug 5, 2011
Jeffrey.LeCours
New Hampshire
 
Jeffrey.LeCours   New Hampshire  
 
Soon, As far as I could tell it was fine. I didn't see any loose bathtub size rocks in my way (but then again I wasn't really looking hard to find one). After the short slab, the right angle ramp had some loose / chossy stuff... but the climb doesn't go towards it really.

I agree with Ty. You HAVE to do the second pitch to really talk about this route. I really enjoyed it. Sep 26, 2010
S. Neoh
 
S. Neoh  
 
Jeffrey, glad you agree P2 is great. I had a lot of fun on it. From what you wrote, my guess is it was not significantly impacted by the rockfall back in March? Sep 25, 2010
Jeffrey.LeCours
New Hampshire
 
Jeffrey.LeCours   New Hampshire  
 
Did this today for the first time and loved it. The second pitch is REALLY fun! Sep 25, 2010
S. Neoh
 
S. Neoh  
 
P2 is really good. It gets 3-stars from me. Got to do Dolt first before deciding which is better. BUT, was P2 of RJD wiped out by the rockfall of Mar 2010? I have been too scared to go over there to climb and find out! Aug 11, 2010
M Sprague
New England
 
M Sprague   New England  
 
That would be the variation Soup to Nuts, a 12 with a big dyno. Be aware with Rock du Jours that there is a bathtub sized rock that is not held on by much, to the left when you go up through the notch of the second pitch. You can't see how loose and scary it is from the route, but if it cuts loose it will likely crash down where everybody hangs out. If you climb this before it gets trundled, be VERY careful. EDIT -The rock is gone now. Apr 13, 2010
twellman
Cambridge
 
twellman   Cambridge
 
I noticed that two of the one-star votes were from people who only did the first pitch, according to their notes. I don't think it's fair to rate a climb based on only doing one half. You wouldn't climb flyin hawaiin up to the dihedral, then come down and say, "eh, it's just alright."

The second pitch is quite awesome, and I would agree with Mark that it vies for best 9 at Rumney. Super exposure, amazing views, awesome holds and a nice feeling of adventure, not to mention you get to top out main cliff at the end.

Also, when starting the 5.9 pitch (2), after you traverse left and clip two eyebolts, don't cut back right too early, or you'll be on another climb (the thang?), that is harder. Apr 11, 2010
M Sprague
New England
 
M Sprague   New England  
 
Im guessing 15 ft. Its all glue-ins. Don't go all the way to the Rawl bolt. That is for an unfinished project that comes close to RDJD at that point and could cause confusion Sep 28, 2009
matthewWallace
Sandwich, NH
  5.9
matthewWallace   Sandwich, NH
  5.9
How far left of the anchors does this start going up? Sep 24, 2009
lee hansche
goffstown, nh
 
lee hansche   goffstown, nh  
 
there are far better 5.9s at rumney in my mind but yes this is a fun adventure indeed... Oct 28, 2008