Rock Du Jours Direct
Avg: 3 from 129 votes
|Type:||Sport, 180 ft, 2 pitches|
|FA:||cleaned and bolted by Mark Sprague, but much of the terrain previously climbed by others|
|Page Views:||7,503 total · 59/month|
|Shared By:||M Sprague on Sep 18, 2007|
|Admins:||Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey.LeCours, Robert Hall, Jonathan Steitzer|
DescriptionThis is perhaps one of the best 5.9s at Rumney (at least for it's airy positioning), offering two pitches of climbing on the far right side of the Iron Man Wall. The first pitch warms you up with 100 ft of scrambly to quality moderate (5.7) climbing following corner systems. The second starts out with a bang, with an exposed, pumpy traverse out flakes. Stay low on the flakes and keep traversing until you are about 8 feet past the last bolt in the overhang and it starts to feel scary befor pulling over if you want to keep the climbing easier. Then a short slab gets you to an undercling and a big reach up to another overhanging hand traverse going right and mantel to a rest. Move out right on to the exposed face, then up to the final airy finish. This route is a great outing with excellent positioning and views of the Main Cliff and the Baker River valley below.
The 2nd pitch leader should be comfortable with 5.9 as the traverse moves off the first anchor are relatively stiff and intimidating (good positive holds though ;-)
LocationStarts on the right hand side of the Iron Man Wall section. Just right of Gold Digger, climb up to an easy right leaning scrambly ramp, then up into a nice corner, following eyebolts to an excellent belay ledge. 5.7 (Breaking off left and following another corner with regular hangered bolts leads you to the second pitch anchor of Goldbug, and The Thang above)
Pitch 2: Head out left on the big flake system past a few bolts, then mantel and head up to a notch with an overhang above. Undercling and reach the top of the overhang and hand traverse right until you can mantel over. Get a shake, then head right around the arete into the exposure and up. Finishes straight up on flakes to a bolted anchor. From here, lower back to the belay and belay your second. From the belay you can just get down to the base the way you came with a 60m rope. Be especially careful of loose stones on your descent and while pulling the rope as there are usually people below.