Type: Sport, 210 ft, 2 pitches
FA: Mark Sprague 8/00
Page Views: 1,507 total · 11/month
Shared By: M Sprague on Sep 18, 2007
Admins: Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey LeCours, Jonathan Steitzer, Robert Hall

You & This Route


3 Opinions

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Description

As The World Burns is an often overlooked second pitch from the anchors of Thin Man that offers wild, exposed and pumpy climbing up through the steep center of the Iron Man Wall.

Highly recommended if you want to hang it out above the crowds.

Climb Thin Man or reach the anchors by climbing Underdog or Peanutman and traversing left. From the anchors head left and up a steep face, then make a pumpy traverse right under a roof before pulling it and tackling the final steepness to gain a nice belay ledge.

If you want to keep the adventure going, belay here and continue up The Thing for a third pitch. If stopping, you are a little too high to simply lower to the Iron Man ledge unless you have a 70m. You will have to do it in two drops, using the Thin Man Anchors. Alternatively, rapping off the Via Ferrata anchors 20 feet over, on the right side of the belay ledge, will get you down with a 60m in one drop.

A sling or two and longish draws will keep everything running smoothly as you fight the pump near the top.

Location

The middle of the Main Cliff, above the Iron Man ledge, up above Thin Man, through that crazy exposed steepness : ))

Protection

Bolts to a bolted anchor (Just clip the eyebolts to avoid extra drag, and not the old "removable" bolt or any pin if still there.)  A 60m rope will work, but a 70m will make the logistics easier for lowering

Photos

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M Sprague
New England
  5.12b
M Sprague   New England  
  5.12b
I never see people on this route and always wonder why. I guess it is since it is a second pitch and the exposure may be scary looking to some. May 6, 2009
lee hansche
goffstown, nh
 
lee hansche   goffstown, nh  
 
I got on it and wasnt too impressed with it (which is rare for me) really the extra pins etc made it a little unatractive and i couldnt decide where it went... im sure its cool once you figure it out maybe ill get on it again sometime... as for it being a second pitch, i love second pitches, no lines! May 6, 2009
M Sprague
New England
  5.12b
M Sprague   New England  
  5.12b
Ya, sorry about the extra gear. Whenever I have gotten back to that wall I have haven't been able to get up there with the tools. Once you have come up to the roof, head right a little more then you might think before tackling the headwall...no need to go all the way into the corner with the loose stuff though. Just clip the glue-in eyebolts, not the pin or the cheap work bolt or you will get drag. They were just directionals for cleaning and drilling and need to come out. May 6, 2009
lee hansche
goffstown, nh
 
lee hansche   goffstown, nh  
 
Thanks for the beta mark... May 7, 2009
M Sprague
New England
  5.12b
M Sprague   New England  
  5.12b
Has anybody gotten the second ascent of this thing yet, lol? May 22, 2012
Jeffrey LeCours
New Hampshire
Jeffrey LeCours   New Hampshire  
I've been eyeballing this since last fall. When the cliff opens up again I plan on this, The Thing, Via Ferrata, and Steel Curtain. Since I'm a weekend warrior, I had always been nervous of sending down loose rock on the hundreds of people sleeping below. May 22, 2012
M Sprague
New England
  5.12b
M Sprague   New England  
  5.12b
There shouldn't be any loose rock unless you go way off route to the right. Feb 16, 2013
lee hansche
goffstown, nh
 
lee hansche   goffstown, nh  
 
Don't worry mark, i didn't forget about this one :) climbed it today!
good climbing and GREAT exposure! big move on pretty good holds. The rock seemed solid.

Logistics for those who want to climb it:
-you dont need to bring your belayer up to the ledge with you. I top roped peanut man then moved over to the Thin Man anchor back cleaning all pro before that. clipped that anchor with a long draw and lead up from there. A little rope weight but not bad... Using a 70m rope makes it a lot easier to lower off :) Jul 2, 2013
M Sprague
New England
  5.12b
M Sprague   New England  
  5.12b
Cool! Glad you liked it. Maybe I will make another effort to get up there and take out the extra hardware. It has only been 13 years, lol. Anybody is welcome to take the pin and the hanger off the work bolt if you want them (says hopefully) Jul 3, 2013
lee hansche
goffstown, nh
 
lee hansche   goffstown, nh  
 
I am thinking about going up to shoot some photos if i can get someone to climb it... if i do ill bring a few tools and try to clean it up... What about the removable bolt? Was that stuck? or should it come out?

In the end the extra stuff made working the route out a lot easier since i could aid up to hang draws and check things out. I did only clip the glue-ins on the send however...

what a fantastic move going up to the hold just right of the pin... big old huck out a roof to a great hold while hangin' it out 100ft off the ground! perfect! Jul 3, 2013
M Sprague
New England
  5.12b
M Sprague   New England  
  5.12b
The removable bolt is actually one I borrowed from Ward. It was stuck and I was having a hard time getting so I could work on it without weighting it. You will need a very thin screwdriver tapped with a hammer to get it out. Take out or leave whatever you think is best. I just didn't want it to be ugly or mislead people into clipping something that will give bad rope drag. Thanks much for the help if you do get to it Jul 3, 2013
lee hansche
goffstown, nh
 
lee hansche   goffstown, nh  
 
yeah, I'd be happy to help... i do think all the extra stuff should be removed i was just admitting to using it after complaining about it last time i was on it haha... It will still be easy to work once its cleaned up. Jul 3, 2013
lee hansche
goffstown, nh
 
lee hansche   goffstown, nh  
 
I rapped in today and removed some of the extraneous gear... I removed the expansion bolt and the pin but couldn't get the removable bolt to budge... bummer cause that's the ugliest part but oh well its a start :) Aug 6, 2013
M Sprague
New England
  5.12b
M Sprague   New England  
  5.12b
Thanks, Lee. The RB might have to be just chopped off and the hole plugged. Aug 6, 2013
lee hansche
goffstown, nh
 
lee hansche   goffstown, nh  
 
my pleasure... yeah some rugged wire cutters and a patch job and the thing would be all set... Aug 6, 2013