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Sweet Polly Purebred
5.10c YDS 6b French 20 Ewbanks VII UIAA 20 ZA E2 5b British
Avg: 3.2 from 457
votes
Routes in The Main Cliff
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Ali Babbler S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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As The World Burns S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Beat Junkie S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c |
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Fat Man S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Fear of Abraham T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Going Nuts S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c |
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Gold Digger S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Goldbug S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Goldbug Finish S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Goldmember S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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Gunboat Diplomacy S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Iron Man S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Know Ethics S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Little Big Man S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Millenium Falcon S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Peanut Man S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Rap Echo S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Rock de Jours T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c X |
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Rock Du Jours Direct S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Rocket Fuel S 5.14a 8b+ 32 X+ 32 E8 7a |
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Rocket Man S 5.13d 8b 31 X 32 E8 7a |
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Shiskebob T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a PG13 |
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Simon Bar Sinister S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Skewer, The S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c |
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Sky Lab (incomplete) T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a A3 R |
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Space Shuttle T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Steel Curtain S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Supersize Me S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Sweet Polly Purebred S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Thang, The S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Thin Man S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c |
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Thing, The S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Underdog S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Via Ferrata S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Working Man S,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
Order Wrong?
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| Type: | Sport |
| FA: | Chris Smith, as a sport route 2005. Parts were climbed previously by others using trad gear and pins |
| Page Views: | 11,803 total · 53/month |
| Shared By: | Jay Knower on Oct 23, 2006 |
| Admins: | Jay Knower, M Sprague, Jeffrey LeCours, Jonathan S, Robert Hall |
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Description
Polly Purebred used to be a runout and neglected trad climb until a retrobolting modernized it a few years ago. It's proximity to the most popular 5.10 at Rumney (Underdog) guarantees heavy traffic.
Easy juggy climbing leads to a rest ledge. Put a long draw on the bolt off the ledge and launch into the overhanging crux (previously "protected" by a shady pin). This crux can be baffling until the correct sequence is found. Layback up the wonderful hanging corner. Slabby moves give way to another crux below the anchors.
Welcome to the 21st century Polly, we're all glad you're here.
Easy juggy climbing leads to a rest ledge. Put a long draw on the bolt off the ledge and launch into the overhanging crux (previously "protected" by a shady pin). This crux can be baffling until the correct sequence is found. Layback up the wonderful hanging corner. Slabby moves give way to another crux below the anchors.
Welcome to the 21st century Polly, we're all glad you're here.
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