Type: Sport
FA: Chris Smith, as a sport route 2005. Parts were climbed previously by others using trad gear and pins
Page Views: 9,495 total · 57/month
Shared By: Jay Knower on Oct 23, 2006
Admins: Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey LeCours, Jonathan Steitzer, Robert Hall

You & This Route


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Description

Polly Purebred used to be a runout and neglected trad climb until a retrobolting modernized it a few years ago. It's proximity to the most popular 5.10 at Rumney (Underdog) guarantees heavy traffic.

Easy juggy climbing leads to a rest ledge. Put a long draw on the bolt off the ledge and launch into the overhanging crux (previously "protected" by a shady pin). This crux can be baffling until the correct sequence is found. Layback up the wonderful hanging corner. Slabby moves give way to another crux below the anchors.

Welcome to the 21st century Polly, we're all glad you're here.

Protection

Bomber eyebolts. The anchor is glue-in Wave bolts with drop in pigtails as of Sept 22/ 2015. Please make sure you TR off your own draws, not the pgtails.

Photos