Type: Sport, 75 ft (23 m)
FA: Mark Sprague, 1999
Page Views: 13,583 total · 76/month
Shared By: Jay Knower on Oct 16, 2006 · Updates
Admins: Jay Knower, M Sprague, Lee Hansche, Jeffrey LeCours, Jonathan Steitzer, Robert Hall

You & This Route


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Description

Peanut Man climbs up the center of Main Cliff proper. Scramble from the ground (easy class four) and gain the raised ledge. Belay at an eyebolt on the far right side of the ledge.

The climb starts out with fun, insecure, 5.10ish climbing up steep orange corners. After passing a piton (it's not necessary to clip this) it is possible to rest off a jug at the top of the orange rock. From here, the rock turns to schist, and if you think that the bulge threatens over you like a black raincloud, then you are entirely correct.

The bulge presents the crux of the route--an upward stab into the obvious undercling. The difficulties continue, however, as the holds turn into slopers, leaving the climber grasping for purchase on the rounded topout. A few easier moves lead to the anchors.

Many shorter people think this climb is harder. A long reach helps a great deal on the final topout.

Note: Peanut Man got the big upgrade (from 11d to 12a) because of a hold breaking on October 18, 2010.

Protection

9 bolts.

Photos