Avg: 3.4 from 155 votes
|Type:||Sport, 75 ft (23 m)|
|FA:||Mark Sprague, 1999|
|Page Views:||13,583 total · 76/month|
|Shared By:||Jay Knower on Oct 16, 2006 · Updates|
|Admins:||Jay Knower, M Sprague, Lee Hansche, Jeffrey LeCours, Jonathan Steitzer, Robert Hall|
The climb starts out with fun, insecure, 5.10ish climbing up steep orange corners. After passing a piton (it's not necessary to clip this) it is possible to rest off a jug at the top of the orange rock. From here, the rock turns to schist, and if you think that the bulge threatens over you like a black raincloud, then you are entirely correct.
The bulge presents the crux of the route--an upward stab into the obvious undercling. The difficulties continue, however, as the holds turn into slopers, leaving the climber grasping for purchase on the rounded topout. A few easier moves lead to the anchors.
Many shorter people think this climb is harder. A long reach helps a great deal on the final topout.
Note: Peanut Man got the big upgrade (from 11d to 12a) because of a hold breaking on October 18, 2010.