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Routes in Main Cliff

Ali Babbler S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
As The World Burns S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Beat Junkie S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Fat Man S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Fear of Abraham T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Gold Digger S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Goldbug S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Goldbug Finish S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Goldmember S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Gunboat Diplomacy S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Iron Man S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Know Ethics S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Little Big Man S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Millenium Falcon S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Peanut Man S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Rap Echo S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Rock Du Jours Direct S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Rock de Jours T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c X
Rocket Man S 5.13d 8b 31 X 32 E8 7a
Shiskebob T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a PG13
Simon Bar Sinister S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Skewer, The S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Sky Lab (incomplete) T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a A3 R
Soup to Nuts S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Space Shuttle T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Steel Curtain S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Supersize Me S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Sweet Polly Purebred S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Thang, The S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Thin Man S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Thing, The S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Underdog S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Via Ferrata S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Working Man T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Type: Sport, 75 ft
FA: Mark Sprague, 1999
Page Views: 9,509 total, 70/month
Shared By: Jay Knower on Oct 16, 2006
Admins: Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey.LeCours, Robert Hall

You & This Route


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Description

Peanut Man climbs up the center of Main Cliff proper. Scramble from the ground (easy class four) and gain the raised ledge. Belay at an eyebolt on the far right side of the ledge.

The climb starts out with fun, insecure, 5.10ish climbing up steep orange corners. After passing a piton (it's not necessary to clip this) it is possible to rest off a jug at the top of the orange rock. From here, the rock turns to schist, and if you think that the bulge threatens over you like a black raincloud, then you are entirely correct.

The bulge presents the crux of the route--an upward stab into the obvious undercling. The difficulties continue, however, as the holds turn into slopers, leaving the climber grasping for purchase on the rounded topout. A few easier moves lead to the anchors.

Many shorter people think this climb is harder. A long reach helps a great deal on the final topout.

Note: Peanut Man got the big upgrade (from 11d to 12a) because of a hold breaking on October 18, 2010.

Protection

9 bolts.
Reclimbed this for the first time since the 2nd hold broke yesterday. It definitely changes the sequence clipping that bolt and moving through the bulge. You now have to use some much smaller feet on the slopers.

While harder, I think it's still 12a, just a bit stiffer now. Nov 14, 2016
Graham O.
  5.12a
Graham O.  
  5.12a
Very, very, fun! Definite crux, cool holds, cool movement, perfect rock, and scariness. This thing has it all. Felt solid 5.12a, btw. Aug 13, 2016
Brunt Tornton
NH
  5.12a
Brunt Tornton   NH
  5.12a
^that was bound to happen eventually. Kinda surprised that undercling is still there TBH Apr 12, 2016
Kim Parretti
Worcester, MA
Kim Parretti   Worcester, MA
Another hold broke off yesterday (3/26/16). It was the heavily glued jug just right of the undercling. I didn't find it crucial as a hand, but it was a pretty nice foot to get into the slopers. Now you just get a little nub instead of a nice perch. Probably doesn't change the grade, but it does make the slopers feel a bit harder. Mar 27, 2016
HVarner  
Thanks Jeffrey, I will report it there too Jul 5, 2014
Jeffrey.LeCours
New Hampshire
 
Jeffrey.LeCours   New Hampshire  
 
HVarner, a good place to report this is at climbrumney.com/report-a-pr… Jul 1, 2014
HVarner  
quick clips are starting to get a little think on this route, not sure who takes the charge in maintaining main cliff but maybe worth a look? thanks! Jun 30, 2014
lee hansche
goffstown, nh
  5.12a
lee hansche   goffstown, nh  
  5.12a
I did "Peanut Man 2" today and i agree with 5.12a... i like the new move more than the old one, balancy and more memorable... For me that move wasnt a big step harder but the old hold was important as a foot and it made it harder to get up in to the under cling... over all, no loss, we now have a really fun 12a on main cliff :) Nov 1, 2010
Andrew Freeman
Brookline, MA
 
Andrew Freeman   Brookline, MA
 
Alright then it's settled: Peanut Man II, 5.15a. If you guys wouldn't mind informing all the appropriate media outlets, it would really save me a hassle. Oct 20, 2010
lee hansche
goffstown, nh
  5.12a
lee hansche   goffstown, nh  
  5.12a
my vote is to leave it as is.... rocks break.... its part of the game... i personally hope that it will get rid of that 11d/12a grade and get us settled on a solid number :) Oct 20, 2010
M Sprague
New England
  5.12a
M Sprague   New England  
  5.12a
Well, I think I may have reinforced that hold a little when originally I put the route up, but obviously weather and being climbed on for years caught up with it. If it really messed up the route, say for instance making a clip ridiculous or something, and it could be repaired in such a way where it wouldn't be noticeable, I would be for putting it back on, in which case I would like to do it myself, but it sounds like the route goes fine without the full hold. You just clipped off the jug, so that is not an issue. May as well leave it be. We got years out of it. Now we have a little more challenge. Maybe hold on to the piece for a while longer , if you don't mind, in case people want it put back. Oct 20, 2010
Andrew Freeman
Brookline, MA
 
Andrew Freeman   Brookline, MA
 
basically the hold he reaches at :38/:39 in the first video Oct 20, 2010
Andrew Freeman
Brookline, MA
 
Andrew Freeman   Brookline, MA
 
just before the real crux starts. from the last big jug in the quartzite section, you make a big reach with the right hand past a little crackcrimp up to this pretty good pinch, and from there you locked off with the right hand to reach another left hand crimp before stabbing into the underclimb. That right hand (which was also a good foothold) is no longer a good crimp with a thumb catch, and is now a kind of crappy gaston sloper that you grab to make the lockoff.

I have the missing piece in my room. thought i'd hold on to it for safekeeping in case someone wanted it. i don't think it would work to glue it, plus i don't know what the whole ethics deal with that is. it's still plenty climbable, just kind of a weird move now. Oct 20, 2010
Jeffrey.LeCours
New Hampshire
 
Jeffrey.LeCours   New Hampshire  
 
Shoulda put some peanut butter on the wonder bread that was stuffed up there :( Oct 20, 2010
M Sprague
New England
  5.12a
M Sprague   New England  
  5.12a
What hold broke, and did it come off cleanly, with no missing pieces? Oct 19, 2010
Andrew Freeman
Brookline, MA
 
Andrew Freeman   Brookline, MA
 
this recently broke (october 18, 2010, i think). I recovered the broken piece and did what might possibly be the first post-break ascent. WIthout any knowledge of whether or not this is warranted, I am renaming it Peanut Man II, and calling it 15a.

in all seriousness, this may be 12a now. kind of a bummer that the hold broke. Oct 19, 2010
lee hansche
goffstown, nh
  5.12a
lee hansche   goffstown, nh  
  5.12a
Jakob sending Peanut Man on a perfect Autumn day in october 2010...
nice job jakob!!!


youtube.com/watch?v=Pa3cGt2… Oct 16, 2010
lee hansche
goffstown, nh
  5.12a
lee hansche   goffstown, nh  
  5.12a
otey on peanut man on a hot humid summer day...


youtube.com/watch?v=UjXbkAW… Jun 29, 2010
James Otey
NH
  5.12a
James Otey   NH
  5.12a
Don't clip the draw after the crux- swing into the no hands and traverse left from there. Jan 7, 2010
S. Neoh  
For "Dog Nuts", does one cut left after the first 4 bolts of Underdog? Or is it after 5 bolts?
Thanks! Jan 7, 2010
lee hansche
goffstown, nh
  5.12a
lee hansche   goffstown, nh  
  5.12a
I did the "dog nuts" link up today... i like it better than the regular start... great route either way... Jan 7, 2010
matthewWallace
Sandwich, NH
matthewWallace   Sandwich, NH
I have belayed someone one this route but have not yet been on it, but the route looks sweet, I am looking forward to getting on it for sure! Jul 24, 2009
Mike Thompson
Manchester NH
Mike Thompson   Manchester NH
wow jay.... i first gotta say that ive been looking at that route for a little while puzzling about it and wondering if i was up to the challenge of projecting it......after that phenomenal description... im AMPED to get on it!!!! cant wait! i have found a new proj and im psyched!!! thanks for the amazing description! Dec 19, 2008
Ladd

  5.11d
Ladd    
  5.11d
There is a fixed line to asist with the actual star when the conditions are bad also. It lets you get up to the ledge to put on shoes and such in confidence. Dec 4, 2007
Chris Duca
Havertown, PA
  5.12a
Chris Duca   Havertown, PA
  5.12a
So as to avoid the wet and snowy beginning of this route in the winter, link-up the crux of Underdog, then climb left into the upper section of Peanut Man. I've heard this combo referred to as "Dog Nuts". There is a bit of a run out between the two routes, but it is on mellow terrain. Highly recommended. Dec 3, 2007