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Routes in Main Cliff

Ali Babbler S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
As The World Burns S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Beat Junkie S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Fat Man S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Fear of Abraham T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Gold Digger S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Goldbug S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Goldbug Finish S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Goldmember S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Gunboat Diplomacy S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Iron Man S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Know Ethics S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Little Big Man S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Millenium Falcon S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Peanut Man S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Rap Echo S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Rock Du Jours Direct S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Rock de Jours T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c X
Rocket Man S 5.13d 8b 31 X 32 E8 7a
Shiskebob T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a PG13
Simon Bar Sinister S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Skewer, The S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Sky Lab (incomplete) T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a A3 R
Soup to Nuts S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Space Shuttle T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Steel Curtain S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Supersize Me S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Sweet Polly Purebred S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Thang, The S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Thin Man S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Thing, The S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Underdog S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Via Ferrata S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Working Man T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Type: Sport, 200 ft, 3 pitches
FA: Pitch 2 Mark Sprague 11/99, pitch 3 (the thing) Ted Hammond, Paul Cousar, Scott Stevenson, 1988
Page Views: 3,877 total, 31/month
Shared By: lee hansche on Jul 9, 2007
Admins: Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey.LeCours, Robert Hall

You & This Route


13 Opinions

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Description

A great and exposed route that climbs all the way up Main Cliff.

Pitch one: 5.10a. Climb Underdog to its anchors, then traverse left past another set of anchors and a bolt to the anchors of Thin Man (5.13a). Belay from chains. 12 bolts.

Pitch 2: 5.11c. Climb up and right to a crack that heads right past more bolts. The feet on this part are weird but the hands are good crimps turning to jugs. Throw a heel and pull over in to an awkward stance. Pull up through one more tough roof and on to a good ledge with an anchor. Be careful of a potentially loose jug on the arete just before the ledge. There is a hairline crack behind it. If continuing up, clip a directional and move across the ledge to the anchor on your left and belay there. 5 bolts.

Pitch 3: From the left end of the ledge, climb up through the roof and an exposed notch and on to more moderate climbing to the top. 7 bolts to an anchor near the top of the cliff then lower back to the ledge.

Be careful of loose rock because you will likely be climbing above folks on the ground.

A 60m will get you to the ground from the top of pitch 2.

Location

Start up Underdog.

Protection

All bolts and bolted anchors. 12 draws and some slings and lockers for anchors should do you fine.

Photos

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Jeffrey.LeCours
New Hampshire
Jeffrey.LeCours   New Hampshire  
I finally got on this over the past weekend (brrr) and it was pretty damn fun. I've NEVER seen anyone else on this. The clip prior to traversing the initial overhang is a little spooky but on big holds (past the clip you wish you had made). It wasn't until Jared pulled into the exit notch that he realized the slab was verglas - hah! Despite that, he didn't seem to have a problem getting to the anchor. Cool, albeit short, pitch. Feb 25, 2013
M Sprague
New England
 
M Sprague   New England  
 
Last time I was on this I noticed a large hold had a hairline crack behind it. It is right near the finish of the 2nd pitch, a big rounded hold on the little arete you throw out to, on the right of the finishing notch. Be careful, especially if people are below. I suggest giving a warning in case it pops. I am not sure if it can get a little tack behind it to keep it stable. Aug 17, 2010
lee hansche
goffstown, nh
 
lee hansche   goffstown, nh  
 
yeah the rock fall wasnt near this climb.... GO FOR IT!!! Aug 16, 2010
Jeffrey.LeCours
New Hampshire
Jeffrey.LeCours   New Hampshire  
Any idea if this route is still in tact after the rock fall? Aug 15, 2010
M Sprague
New England
 
M Sprague   New England  
 
A hold broke, making one of the early clips on the second pitch much harder (you have to go past it), though the overall grade remains the same. The last pitch is recommended for the wild, exposed moves, even though the easier very top is a bit dirty. Aug 29, 2007