Type: Sport, 200 ft, 3 pitches
FA: Pitch 2 Mark Sprague 11/99, pitch 3 (the thing) Ted Hammond, Paul Cousar, Scott Stevenson, 1988
Page Views: 4,367 total · 31/month
Shared By: lee hansche on Jul 9, 2007
Admins: Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey LeCours, Jonathan Steitzer, Robert Hall

You & This Route


15 Opinions

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Description

A great and exposed route that climbs all the way up Main Cliff.

Pitch one: 5.10a. Climb Underdog to its anchors, then traverse left past another set of anchors and a bolt to the anchors of Thin Man (5.13a). Belay from chains. 12 bolts.

Pitch 2: 5.11c. Climb up and right to a crack that heads right past more bolts. The feet on this part are weird but the hands are good crimps turning to jugs. Throw a heel and pull over in to an awkward stance. Pull up through one more tough roof and on to a good ledge with an anchor. Be careful of a potentially loose jug on the arete just before the ledge. There is a hairline crack behind it. If continuing up, clip a directional and move across the ledge to the anchor on your left and belay there. 5 bolts.

Pitch 3: From the left end of the ledge, climb up through the roof and an exposed notch and on to more moderate climbing to the top. 7 bolts to an anchor near the top of the cliff then lower back to the ledge.

Be careful of loose rock because you will likely be climbing above folks on the ground.

A 60m will get you to the ground from the top of pitch 2.

Location

Start up Underdog.

Protection

All bolts and bolted anchors. 12 draws and some slings and lockers for anchors should do you fine.

Photos

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M Sprague
New England
 
M Sprague   New England  
 
A hold broke, making one of the early clips on the second pitch much harder (you have to go past it), though the overall grade remains the same. The last pitch is recommended for the wild, exposed moves, even though the easier very top is a bit dirty. Aug 29, 2007
Jeffrey LeCours
New Hampshire
Jeffrey LeCours   New Hampshire  
Any idea if this route is still in tact after the rock fall? Aug 15, 2010
lee hansche
goffstown, nh
  5.11c
lee hansche   goffstown, nh  
  5.11c
yeah the rock fall wasnt near this climb.... GO FOR IT!!! Aug 16, 2010
M Sprague
New England
 
M Sprague   New England  
 
Last time I was on this I noticed a large hold had a hairline crack behind it. It is right near the finish of the 2nd pitch, a big rounded hold on the little arete you throw out to, on the right of the finishing notch. Be careful, especially if people are below. I suggest giving a warning in case it pops. I am not sure if it can get a little tack behind it to keep it stable. Aug 17, 2010
Jeffrey LeCours
New Hampshire
Jeffrey LeCours   New Hampshire  
I finally got on this over the past weekend (brrr) and it was pretty damn fun. I've NEVER seen anyone else on this. The clip prior to traversing the initial overhang is a little spooky but on big holds (past the clip you wish you had made). It wasn't until Jared pulled into the exit notch that he realized the slab was verglas - hah! Despite that, he didn't seem to have a problem getting to the anchor. Cool, albeit short, pitch. Feb 25, 2013
Super fun, super airy roof!

The third pitch was mega dirty, doesn't see a lot of action. Neither I nor my partner could find a bolt right after pulling the notch. I climbed up another 15 ft or so up very easy terrain over another bulge towards a tree I was gonna sling before finding another bolt. So if you pull the corner and feel like you've gone the wrong way, don't worry!

Finally - descent beta from the top of pitch 3: Currently (5/7/18) the anchor at the top is just 2 bolts, no chains or rings, so you can't lower off or rap from there without leaving gear. Instead, there is a tree anchor up and climber's left from the top of pitch 3 where you can rap down to the top of Beat Junky or Rocket Man. It's a little close on a 60m rope, so knot those ends! May 7, 2018
M Sprague
New England
 
M Sprague   New England  
 
If the anchor for the 3rd pitch (The Thing) is big bare glue-ins, It is better to have quick links with rings, but I think it is still better to rap off them than a tree anchor. Nov 19, 2018