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Routes in Main Cliff

Ali Babbler S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
As The World Burns S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Beat Junkie S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Fat Man S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Fear of Abraham T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Gold Digger S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Goldbug S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Goldbug Finish S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Goldmember S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Gunboat Diplomacy S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Iron Man S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Know Ethics S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Little Big Man S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Millenium Falcon S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Peanut Man S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Rap Echo S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Rock Du Jours Direct S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Rock de Jours T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c X
Rocket Man S 5.13d 8b 31 X 32 E8 7a
Shiskebob T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a PG13
Simon Bar Sinister S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Skewer, The S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Sky Lab (incomplete) T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a A3 R
Soup to Nuts S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Space Shuttle T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Steel Curtain S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Supersize Me S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Sweet Polly Purebred S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Thang, The S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Thin Man S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Thing, The S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Underdog S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Via Ferrata S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Working Man T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Type: Trad, Aid, 80 ft, Grade II
FA: Bradley White and Joel O'Connell was the belayer, 1987
Page Views: 1,039 total, 10/month
Shared By: bradley white on Aug 18, 2009
Admins: Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey.LeCours, Robert Hall

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Description

Above Space Shuttle move left to crack in the middle of slab and aid crack(A-3). At crack ends move left and enter alcove (left edge of alcove is Beat Junkie). Then move right to rotten crack in right facing steep corner (A-2) and nail it carefully. At top of corner aid crack and move left to stance (5-9) and 2 bolt belay. Move up very rough face (5-9)that I started to climb and then down climbed because Joel decided to stay on the ground. The climb after the rough face would enter 5-4 left facing corners to the top 100ft up. I lowered leaving a large tri-cam in the alcove. I came back with a friend and screwed up the crack in the middle of the slab because I didn't nail it, instead was using stoppers on both ascents. Therefore I took a 20ft fall to the base of Space Shuttle after ripping out all gear above Space Shuttle lay back end section. The new rope I was using was trashed and I had a bruised hip.

This climb if nailed creating pin scars for finger holds in the crack and the loose rock of the crack in the steep right facing corner was removed and bolted should go at a high grade of free climbing difficulty. That's how some of the old aid climbs became free climbs in the past from pin scaring chipping. Anyway it's dangerous, that's for sure on pitons and stoppers only.

Walk off or rappel to bolt belay. The bolts are not stainless steel and twenty two years old.

Protection

Smallest to medium Stoppers, pitons, large tri-cams, and being lucky is needed to ascend this route.

Photos

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bradley white
Bend
 
bradley white   Bend
 
first pitch goes to belay on decrepit anchor bolts. I intended to do another pitch to the summit and its been top roped. Didn't like the top roped way. A climb isn't completed until it top's off or summit's. Topping off at Rattlesnake I mean Rumney doesn't happen much. Jul 21, 2015
Eli
Lives in a truck
Eli   Lives in a truck
If this route was never finished, how can there be an FA on it? Jul 21, 2015