Type: Sport
FA: Ted Hammond, Paul Cousar and Scott Stevenson 4/88
Page Views: 682 total · 10/month
Shared By: lee hansche on Aug 6, 2013
Admins: J Beta, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey LeCours, Jonathan Steitzer, Robert Hall

You & This Route


2 Opinions

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Description

This is not listed as it's own route in the guide book. It is now considered the 3rd pitch of Via Ferrata but as it has it's own name, was done 10 years before the crux pitch of Via Ferrata and no one seems to climb it as part of Via I'm throwing it in here. Enjoy...

A fun stand alone route if you rapped in to it or as a finish to one of the fun pitches that lead to the nice ledge 2/3 of the way up Main Cliff.

From the anchor above As the World Burns (5.12b) climb steep moves out a roof on decent holds heading up and right. Make a difficult and awkward exit through a "V" groove (crux in my opinion) and continue up dirty but moderate rock past hard to see bolts due to the way the elements have made them match their environment. The line ends at a 2 bolt anchor at the top of the cliff.

Amazing exposure and good climbing! Do it!

Location

From the ledge above Via Ferrata and As the World Burns... Keep going.

Protection

7 bolts to 2 eye bolt anchor.

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M Sprague
New England
M Sprague   New England  
Would be 3 stars imo if the very top stayed a little harder and it was cleaned up again. It is tough to clean it nowadays though, with there being people almost constantly below. More climbing it would help! The most exciting 10 at Rumney exposure wise I think. It makes Jolt look silly for that. I second Lee. Do it!

From the top anchor rap or lower with a 60m to the Via Ferrata anchor and then down. You don't really want to top out and knock stuff down on people below. Aug 6, 2013
lee hansche
goffstown, nh
  5.10d
lee hansche   goffstown, nh  
  5.10d
I agree Mark! a bit of traffic would clean it up and it would be at least 3 stars! Aug 6, 2013