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Routes in Main Cliff

Ali Babbler S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
As The World Burns S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Beat Junkie S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Fat Man S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Fear of Abraham T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Gold Digger S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Goldbug S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Goldbug Finish S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Goldmember S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Gunboat Diplomacy S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Iron Man S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Know Ethics S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Little Big Man S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Millenium Falcon S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Peanut Man S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Rap Echo S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Rock Du Jours Direct S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Rock de Jours T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c X
Rocket Man S 5.13d 8b 31 X 32 E8 7a
Shiskebob T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a PG13
Simon Bar Sinister S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Skewer, The S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Sky Lab (incomplete) T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a A3 R
Soup to Nuts S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Space Shuttle T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Steel Curtain S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Supersize Me S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Sweet Polly Purebred S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Thang, The S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Thin Man S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Thing, The S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Underdog S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Via Ferrata S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Working Man T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Type: Sport
FA: Ted Hammond, Paul Cousar and Scott Stevenson 4/88
Page Views: 512 total, 10/month
Shared By: lee hansche on Aug 6, 2013
Admins: Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey.LeCours, Robert Hall

You & This Route


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Description

This is not listed as it's own route in the guide book. It is now considered the 3rd pitch of Via Ferrata but as it has it's own name, was done 10 years before the crux pitch of Via Ferrata and no one seems to climb it as part of Via I'm throwing it in here. Enjoy...

A fun stand alone route if you rapped in to it or as a finish to one of the fun pitches that lead to the nice ledge 2/3 of the way up Main Cliff.

From the anchor above As the World Burns (5.12b) climb steep moves out a roof on decent holds heading up and right. Make a difficult and awkward exit through a "V" groove (crux in my opinion) and continue up dirty but moderate rock past hard to see bolts due to the way the elements have made them match their environment. The line ends at a 2 bolt anchor at the top of the cliff.

Amazing exposure and good climbing! Do it!

Location

From the ledge above Via Ferrata and As the World Burns... Keep going.

Protection

7 bolts to 2 eye bolt anchor.

Photos

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lee hansche
goffstown, nh
 
lee hansche   goffstown, nh  
 
I agree Mark! a bit of traffic would clean it up and it would be at least 3 stars! Aug 6, 2013
M Sprague
New England
M Sprague   New England  
Would be 3 stars imo if the very top stayed a little harder and it was cleaned up again. It is tough to clean it nowadays though, with there being people almost constantly below. More climbing it would help! The most exciting 10 at Rumney exposure wise I think. It makes Jolt look silly for that. I second Lee. Do it!

From the top anchor rap or lower with a 60m to the Via Ferrata anchor and then down. You don't really want to top out and knock stuff down on people below. Aug 6, 2013