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Routes in Main Cliff

Ali Babbler S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
As The World Burns S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Beat Junkie S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Fat Man S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Fear of Abraham T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Gold Digger S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Goldbug S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Goldbug Finish S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Goldmember S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Gunboat Diplomacy S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Iron Man S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Know Ethics S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Little Big Man S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Millenium Falcon S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Peanut Man S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Rap Echo S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Rock Du Jours Direct S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Rock de Jours T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c X
Rocket Man S 5.13d 8b 31 X 32 E8 7a
Shiskebob T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a PG13
Simon Bar Sinister S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Skewer, The S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Sky Lab (incomplete) T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a A3 R
Soup to Nuts S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Space Shuttle T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Steel Curtain S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Supersize Me S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Sweet Polly Purebred S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Thang, The S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Thin Man S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Thing, The S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Underdog S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Via Ferrata S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Working Man T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Type: Trad
FA: scott Stevenson 1986
Page Views: 178 total · 2/month
Shared By: lee hansche on Oct 14, 2010
Admins: Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey.LeCours, Robert Hall, Jonathan Steitzer

You & This Route


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Description

This is a Gear protected link up that starts on The Skewer, Climbs a pretty corner and links up to the second half of Gunboat Diplomacy.

Basically climb 2 bolts on the Skewer move left around the corner in to a nice corner with a seam running up it. Make a few easy moves before getting to a decent stance where this get blank. Plug in a few small nuts and pull the crux. I did a lunge/dyno to a sloping edge then on to easier holds and bolts on Gunboat to it's anchor.

Shorter folks will have a hard time on crux i think.

Easily TRed after doing Gunboat but use a few directionals.

Location

Between the two routes in the description.

Protection

a few small nuts and a micro cam or two and 10 or 12 draws.

Photos

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Ian Grant
Cambridge
Ian Grant   Cambridge
Thanks Lee. I'll check it out on TR first. Psyched! Aug 1, 2015
lee hansche
goffstown, nh
 
lee hansche   goffstown, nh  
 
It would have been sketchy if I hadn't previewed it and found the key nut placement. So, when i did it I felt safe but if the nut wasn't sound and it popped, then you would have a problem... I tested the move and found the gear before sending it "head point style"... easy to check it out after leading Gunboat.. Jul 30, 2015
Ian Grant
Cambridge
Ian Grant   Cambridge
How safe is the crux/dyno before this route transitions into Gunboat? I'd love to get on this thing, and am a bit curious about the PG13 rating... Thanks! Jul 30, 2015
Eric Leclerc
Montreal
  5.11c PG13
Eric Leclerc   Montreal
  5.11c PG13
I had the first two bolts clipped above the slabby dihedral to start on top rope.
It is a much better start than Gunboat. The start of Skewer is a fun section then finding a way to go up the dihedral is interesting.You've got everything you need for a 5.11c. Apr 23, 2014
M Sprague
New England
 
M Sprague   New England  
 
I think this is actually a really good route, but it seldom gets done since you need gear for the corner in the middle. Scott had an eye for good lines. Being tall and limber would help with this. I'm neither, so I thought I was going to split in half while stemming the beautiful orange corner. Even if you are not up for leading, it is definitely worth checking out on TR after doing Gunboat. Mar 29, 2011

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