Type: Sport, 2 pitches
FA: Lee Hansche 12/5/18 (Mark Sprague 11/00 original line before the break)
Page Views: 725 total · 6/month
Shared By: lee hansche on Oct 28, 2008
Admins: Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey LeCours, Jonathan Steitzer, Robert Hall

You & This Route


2 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do · View List

Your Star Rating:


     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:


-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
    -none-

Description

Previously called Soup To Nuts and graded 5.12c this route suffered the loss of THE key hold on the route. A big jug in the steep wall. Over the past 5 years numerous people have tried to figure out a sequence through the nearly blank wall. I myself inspected the route at least 5 times before being able discover a solution. Due to the severity of the change to the route and the years it took to see another ascent I thought it was appropriate to re-name it. The new solution is unfortunately a bit height dependent but all the same I am glad that the line has been proven possible again as a line of useless bolts is a sad thing on a pretty wall.

Pitch one: 5.7 Climb the first pitch of Rock Du Jours to the two bolt anchor.

Pitch 2: Follow eye bolts up and left from the anchor then out right to a slab ledge below a steep bulge. Hand traverse up and right along a good ledge beneath the bulge to a solid clipping hold and get ready for a short but stouts series of moves on crimps (V7/8?). My sequence from the jug used a minuscule right hand side-pull with an equally tiny thumb catch. With my left foot on the ledge I used a left hand under-cling crimp to shift left and do a big (height dependent) move with the left hand to a hold in an awkward undercling/sidepull position. With some intense core engagement I went up right hand to a "jug" matched it and moved right and back into the same finish the original route continued on. This is a series of edges that after what you just climbed, will feel pretty mellow. Difficulty continues to ease as you move up and on to the anchor of Rock Du Jours.

Location

Up the corner at the right end of Main Cliff's Iron Man wall. The first pitch (5.7) starts with a scramble in the gully (careful of loose rocks underfoot). You will break left and up the wall past eye bolts to an anchor at a very comfy belay ledge. Pitch 2 (5.13b) uses the first few bolts of Rock Du Jours Direct but trending more right, then heads out right and up over the steep bulge and up to the same anchor as RDJ.

Protection

Eye bolts to the same anchor as Rock Du Jours. On the crux pitch I clipped 9 bolts and back cleaned one (2nd) to reduce potential drag. There are quick clips at the top.

Photos

Around a week ago a friend of mine broke off the key crux hold. This was the hold that had some glue behind it and I think that the route will be much harder now.
Jun 23, 2013
M Sprague
New England
 
M Sprague   New England  
 
Don't feel bad. I was always a little bummed about the ugliness of that glued hold. I should probably figure out how to chop those bolts and patch them. I doubt the route would go without the hold and if it did it would be a nasty hard one move wonder that nobody will ever do. One thing I have learned is that it seems no matter how carefully you do it, almost every glued hold eventually ends up popping off anyway, so I have become much more circumspect about gluing stuff. Jun 24, 2013
Jeffrey LeCours
New Hampshire
Jeffrey LeCours   New Hampshire  
Nooo!!! :'( And on to the list of routes I'll have to try harder on :)

The hold I'm going to here?
Jun 24, 2013
M Sprague
New England
 
M Sprague   New England  
 
Yup. Cover photo, right hand mountainproject.com/v/10781…

OK, I'll leave them. Now you can dyno 6+ feet for the left hand crimp. Jun 24, 2013
Jeffrey LeCours
New Hampshire
Jeffrey LeCours   New Hampshire  
I actually enjoyed this as an alternative to Rock Du Jours Direct. Maybe now I'll give one of the Gold- finishes a try. Jun 24, 2013
Eric Leclerc
Montreal
Eric Leclerc   Montreal  
It's sad to see a route being abandoned because of one broken hold.
This route will never be sent again... Jul 14, 2014
M Sprague
New England
 
M Sprague   New England  
 
Has anybody given it a serious attempt since the hold broke? We need one of the North Conway boys to come and bolt on a big purple hold like they did at Sundown, :))

"Maybe now I'll give one of the Gold- finishes a try." - or As the World Burns Jul 14, 2014
lee hansche
goffstown, nh
  5.13b
lee hansche   goffstown, nh  
  5.13b
i looked at it pretty well and didnt see a solution (barring the purple hold idea haha) but i will look again and hope my perspective changes and i can figure it out... Jul 15, 2014
Eric Leclerc
Montreal
Eric Leclerc   Montreal  
Adam Ondra could probably stick a really bad under crimp with his thumb just above the broken hold.
This could be a 5.15 move!!! Jul 15, 2014
Jeffrey LeCours
New Hampshire
Jeffrey LeCours   New Hampshire  
I actually gave it a few goes after the hold broke. The broken hold left a smooth break. Left of this are some sharp edges that can be used. I (and most people I imagine) used a left heel hook originally; when I pull up to the crimp out left (just as long of a move as before) it required me to REALLY engage my left calf. It didn't feel good so I stopped. I pulled up and from that crimp I was able to ascend the rest of the route. I'm sure this will go but it'll be one extremely hard, inconsistent move. Then again, no one really cares about ??. Jul 16, 2014
lee hansche
goffstown, nh
  5.13b
lee hansche   goffstown, nh  
  5.13b
I will have to try it again... i really like climbing rocks Jul 17, 2014
Ming  
I checked it out as I was lowered from Rock Du Jours, it looks very, very hard, anyone tried it lately? It could be the new 5.15 at Rumney, just to get the stoke going ;) Oct 16, 2016
Will McFarland
Rumney, NH
Will McFarland   Rumney, NH
I checked this one out recently. I didn't figure out the crux, (I only tried it for a few mins) but it I think it would be in the 5.13 range. I may try it seriously in the spring when everything else is wet. Sep 26, 2017
lee hansche
goffstown, nh
  5.13b
lee hansche   goffstown, nh  
  5.13b
After numerous failed attempts to find a solution, I figured out a way and found the power to send this thing today! Dec 5, 2018
M Sprague
New England
 
M Sprague   New England  
 
Excellent, Lee! Glad somebody reunlocked it. A name change is fine. Dec 6, 2018
lee hansche
goffstown, nh
  5.13b
lee hansche   goffstown, nh  
  5.13b
Thanks mark! Dec 6, 2018