Type: Sport, 2 pitches
FA: Lee Hansche 12/5/18 (Mark Sprague 11/00 original line before the break)
Page Views: 1,156 total · 8/month
Shared By: lee hansche on Oct 28, 2008
Admins: Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey LeCours, Jonathan Steitzer, Robert Hall

You & This Route


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Description

Previously called Soup To Nuts and graded 5.12c this route suffered the loss of THE key hold on the route. A big jug in the steep wall. Over the past 5 years numerous people have tried to figure out a sequence through the nearly blank wall. I myself inspected the route at least 5 times before being able discover a solution. Due to the severity of the change to the route and the years it took to see another ascent I thought it was appropriate to re-name it. The new solution is unfortunately a bit height dependent but all the same I am glad that the line has been proven possible again as a line of useless bolts is a sad thing on a pretty wall.

Pitch one: 5.7 Climb the first pitch of Rock Du Jours to the two bolt anchor.

Pitch 2: Follow eye bolts up and left from the anchor then out right to a slab ledge below a steep bulge. Hand traverse up and right along a good ledge beneath the bulge to a solid clipping hold and get ready for a short but stouts series of moves on crimps (V7/8?). My sequence from the jug used a minuscule right hand side-pull with an equally tiny thumb catch. With my left foot on the ledge I used a left hand under-cling crimp to shift left and do a big (height dependent) move with the left hand to a hold in an awkward undercling/sidepull position. With some intense core engagement I went up right hand to a "jug" matched it and moved right and back into the same finish the original route continued on. This is a series of edges that after what you just climbed, will feel pretty mellow. Difficulty continues to ease as you move up and on to the anchor of Rock Du Jours.

Location

Up the corner at the right end of Main Cliff's Iron Man wall. The first pitch (5.7) starts with a scramble in the gully (careful of loose rocks underfoot). You will break left and up the wall past eye bolts to an anchor at a very comfy belay ledge. Pitch 2 (5.13b) uses the first few bolts of Rock Du Jours Direct but trending more right, then heads out right and up over the steep bulge and up to the same anchor as RDJ.

Protection

Eye bolts to the same anchor as Rock Du Jours. On the crux pitch I clipped 9 bolts and back cleaned one (2nd) to reduce potential drag. There are quick clips at the top.

Photos