Type: Sport, 120 ft (36 m)
FA: Kevin Donovan, April 2019
Page Views: 1,567 total · 63/month
Shared By: Lee Hansche on Apr 24, 2019
Admins: Jay Knower, M Sprague, Lee Hansche, Jeffrey LeCours, Jonathan Steitzer, Robert Hall

You & This Route


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Description

Another Main Cliff master piece of varied climbing, Hard crimping, technical slab, high flying adventure and a pumpy finish through the Rocket Man roof!

Start 10 feet to the left of the Rocket Man/Thin Man Start. Follow 6 fixed draws through a bulge, a left leaning corner, a nice rest and finally a seemingly impossibly thin transition in to the middle of the Rocket Man corner. This Traverse right to link the new start to the old route is likely the crux but getting to there is about 13b in it's own right. Basically don't plan on any movement on this thing being inconsequential.

The route was first climbed by Kevin Donovan as a top rope variation. After community discussion I (Lee Hansche) helped Kevin bolt it. He came back the next day and climbed through all of the hardest climbing and fell on an easier move in the upper roof due to a hold breaking. He lowered, pulled the rope and fired the line again, this time topping it out to the upper Rocket Man anchor.

Location

Just left of the shared start of Rocket/Thin Man look for the obvious line of fixed draws that eventually (after the 6th) lead to a link back in to Rocket Man. The original climb went to the top of the cliff but there is a lower anchor if you want to do "Fuel Boy" without the pumpy finish.

Protection

6 draws leading in to many more on Rocket Man. All draws left in place at this time.

70m rope needed if you go all the way to the top and want to lower all the way back. With a 60. You may have to tram back to the sub anchor and go in direct, pull the rope and lower from there.

Photos