Type: Sport, 75 ft
FA: Mark Sprague 12/1999
Page Views: 2,885 total · 20/month
Shared By: Josh Squire on Dec 11, 2006
Admins: Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey LeCours, Jonathan Steitzer, Robert Hall

You & This Route


59 Opinions

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Description

Fun and varied climbing with a lot of moves that keep on coming. You can find a lot of rests but there seems to be a few cruxes.

Location

Scramble up to the ledge and walk almost all the way to the left. RIght before it dips down, look up. Here is the climb.

Protection

10 bolts.

Photos

lee hansche
goffstown, nh
 
lee hansche   goffstown, nh  
 
I would break the climbing in to a few different sections due to its varied nature and nice rests in between...
From the ground you are on crimpy tricky moves on schist holds that are, excepet for one nice jug, fairly non-descript... This leads to a ledge where the rock changes to the classic main cliff blocky orange stuff... One hard move in a right facing corner gets you to a nice rest and some blocky crack climbing...Guess what.. Another rest... Then you are pulling back in to schist for some hard low angle face climbing with intricate foot work to get to the Quick Clips... Feb 25, 2008
Totally awesome! Kind of reachy... Jul 27, 2008
lee hansche
goffstown, nh
 
lee hansche   goffstown, nh  
 
its always little spooky and weird between the 2nd and 3rd bolt... but fun for sure... Nov 12, 2008
Mike Thompson
Manchester NH
Mike Thompson   Manchester NH
thanks for the description lee... sounds like a blast! Dec 19, 2008
S. Neoh
 
S. Neoh  
 
I got spanked on this one today. Most of it is very good. As my friend Den warned me, the crux is reachy and awkward which I found really powerful for a shortie like me. The slabby section leading to the anchors climbs much better than it looks with a tough move thrown in for good measure.
Oh, that orange right facing corner is really interesting. The way I ended up doing it is quite "traddie". Reach again helps a little here. Sep 28, 2013
Eli .
GMC3500
  5.11c
Eli .   GMC3500
  5.11c
I feel that this climb is super height dependent, but pretty well varied. The true crux is definitely at the technical slab/face at the end. If I had a single word to describe the climb it would probably be unobvious. Apr 8, 2015
Matt Levine
Concord, NH
Matt Levine   Concord, NH
Unobvious is right. This is like Millenium Falcon's evil twin brother.

I had a really great time on this today and I think this route deserves a higher reputation. I struggled to find the right beta at times but I think I could piece it together soon for the send. This is a tough route to onsight. That tiny one-finger pocket right by the third bolt is such a tease...I ended up ignoring it completely. Apr 24, 2015
Ian Grant
Cambridge
  5.11b
Ian Grant   Cambridge
  5.11b
Doesn't get the traffic it deserves (I'm not complaining). Perhaps the high degree of funk keeps the hordes away. Unusual climbing for Rumney. Tricky moves interrupted by great rests. Keep your wits about you on your way to the third bolt from the second. It's tricky and I found myself straying way into groundfall territory as I struggled to get situated by the bolt. Safe if you do it right, but I was getting real angry with the bolter until I figured it out. May 1, 2015