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Routes in Main Cliff

Ali Babbler S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
As The World Burns S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Beat Junkie S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Fat Man S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Fear of Abraham T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Gold Digger S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Goldbug S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Goldbug Finish S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Goldmember S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Gunboat Diplomacy S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Iron Man S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Know Ethics S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Little Big Man S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Millenium Falcon S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Peanut Man S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Rap Echo S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Rock Du Jours Direct S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Rock de Jours T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c X
Rocket Man S 5.13d 8b 31 X 32 E8 7a
Shiskebob T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a PG13
Simon Bar Sinister S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Skewer, The S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Sky Lab (incomplete) T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a A3 R
Soup to Nuts S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Space Shuttle T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Steel Curtain S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Supersize Me S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Sweet Polly Purebred S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Thang, The S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Thin Man S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Thing, The S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Underdog S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Via Ferrata S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Working Man T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Type: Sport, 75 ft
FA: Mark Sprague 12/1999
Page Views: 2,685 total, 20/month
Shared By: Josh Squire on Dec 11, 2006
Admins: Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey.LeCours, Robert Hall

You & This Route


51 Opinions

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Description

Fun and varied climbing with a lot of moves that keep on coming. You can find a lot of rests but there seems to be a few cruxes.

Location

Scramble up to the ledge and walk almost all the way to the left. RIght before it dips down, look up. Here is the climb.

Protection

10 bolts.

Photos

Ian Grant
Cambridge
  5.11b
Ian Grant   Cambridge
  5.11b
Doesn't get the traffic it deserves (I'm not complaining). Perhaps the high degree of funk keeps the hordes away. Unusual climbing for Rumney. Tricky moves interrupted by great rests. Keep your wits about you on your way to the third bolt from the second. It's tricky and I found myself straying way into groundfall territory as I struggled to get situated by the bolt. Safe if you do it right, but I was getting real angry with the bolter until I figured it out. May 1, 2015
Matt Levine
Concord, NH
Matt Levine   Concord, NH
Unobvious is right. This is like Millenium Falcon's evil twin brother.

I had a really great time on this today and I think this route deserves a higher reputation. I struggled to find the right beta at times but I think I could piece it together soon for the send. This is a tough route to onsight. That tiny one-finger pocket right by the third bolt is such a tease...I ended up ignoring it completely. Apr 24, 2015
Eli
Lives in a truck
  5.11c
Eli   Lives in a truck
  5.11c
I feel that this climb is super height dependent, but pretty well varied. The true crux is definitely at the technical slab/face at the end. If I had a single word to describe the climb it would probably be unobvious. Apr 8, 2015
S. Neoh
 
S. Neoh  
 
I got spanked on this one today. Most of it is very good. As my friend Den warned me, the crux is reachy and awkward which I found really powerful for a shortie like me. The slabby section leading to the anchors climbs much better than it looks with a tough move thrown in for good measure.
Oh, that orange right facing corner is really interesting. The way I ended up doing it is quite "traddie". Reach again helps a little here. Sep 28, 2013
Mike Thompson
Manchester NH
Mike Thompson   Manchester NH
thanks for the description lee... sounds like a blast! Dec 19, 2008
lee hansche
goffstown, nh
 
lee hansche   goffstown, nh  
 
its always little spooky and weird between the 2nd and 3rd bolt... but fun for sure... Nov 12, 2008
Totally awesome! Kind of reachy... Jul 27, 2008
lee hansche
goffstown, nh
 
lee hansche   goffstown, nh  
 
I would break the climbing in to a few different sections due to its varied nature and nice rests in between...
From the ground you are on crimpy tricky moves on schist holds that are, excepet for one nice jug, fairly non-descript... This leads to a ledge where the rock changes to the classic main cliff blocky orange stuff... One hard move in a right facing corner gets you to a nice rest and some blocky crack climbing...Guess what.. Another rest... Then you are pulling back in to schist for some hard low angle face climbing with intricate foot work to get to the Quick Clips... Feb 25, 2008