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Routes in Main Cliff

Ali Babbler S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
As The World Burns S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Beat Junkie S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Fat Man S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Fear of Abraham T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Gold Digger S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Goldbug S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Goldbug Finish S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Goldmember S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Gunboat Diplomacy S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Iron Man S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Know Ethics S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Little Big Man S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Millenium Falcon S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Peanut Man S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Rap Echo S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Rock Du Jours Direct S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Rock de Jours T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c X
Rocket Man S 5.13d 8b 31 X 32 E8 7a
Shiskebob T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a PG13
Simon Bar Sinister S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Skewer, The S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Sky Lab (incomplete) T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a A3 R
Soup to Nuts S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Space Shuttle T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Steel Curtain S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Supersize Me S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Sweet Polly Purebred S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Thang, The S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Thin Man S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Thing, The S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Underdog S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Via Ferrata S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Working Man T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Type: Sport
FA: Jim Shimburg 2000
Page Views: 2,959 total, 23/month
Shared By: lee hansche on Jul 9, 2007
Admins: Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey.LeCours, Robert Hall

You & This Route


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Description

One of the best routes I've climbed at the grade. The climbing is not anything special by Rumney standards (because great 5.12s are easy to find), but the exposure gives it that extra something that makes it stand out as a super memorable climb. You also get the pleasure of climbing quality rock all the way to the top of one of Rumney's most beautiful cliffs.

Climb the first 2 pitches described for Via Ferrata (5.11c) this is fun all on its own, but keep going you will be happy you did.

From the ledge on top of pitch 2 of Via Ferrata step right off of the ledge and you will very quickly find yourself in quite an exposed position on a slightly overhanging face 100+ feet off of the ground. Follow the bolts straight up the face. First the climbing is balancy and awkward leading to a section that is brutally crimpy, then a quick tricky move to jugs and a rest ledge. Look up at the anchors and navigate your way to them on 5.9 moves. Wow, look at the view. Tram your way back to the anchor. Now climb it again, I know you want to.

Location

Start by climbing Via Ferrata (5.11c) or another route that will put you on the 2nd pitch belay from that route. Step to the right off of the ledge and climb straight up the slightly inverted face above to the top of the cliff.

Protection

7 bolts to anchor.

60m rope will get you to the ground from the 2nd pitch belay on Via Ferrata.

Photos

Has anyone climbed this route since the hold broke? If not was wondering if it still looks like it will go without being too contrived? Nov 2, 2015
Eric Leclerc
Montreal
  5.12a
Eric Leclerc   Montreal
  5.12a
I just climbed this beautiful route today. Bad news everybody.
The best hold of the sustained middle part is gone. It popped in my hand while I was going for the last hold before the climb gets easier. Aug 4, 2013
M Sprague
New England
M Sprague   New England  
The way E Thatcher described is the way Jim originally did his ascent. I put the anchors in for Via Ferrata later, giving that option. Mar 29, 2011
E thatcher
Plymouth/ North Conway (NH)
 
E thatcher   Plymouth/ North Conway (NH)
 
Another way to get to this route is via that Iron Man extension above Know Ethics. We climbed steal curtain from the Iron Man anchors and it worked pretty well, I think the belayer is able to see the climber much better this way. Either way, this climb is Awesome! Nov 14, 2010