Type: Sport
FA: chris smith 12/99
Page Views: 2,951 total · 18/month
Shared By: Lee Hansche on Jan 7, 2008
Admins: Jay Knower, M Sprague, Lee Hansche, Jeffrey LeCours, Jonathan Steitzer, Robert Hall

You & This Route


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Description

A short but really very fun extension to Underdog. I'm always surprised by how many quality lines are hiding in the hills of Rumney. The big surprise here is that this extension was hiding above a route I've done so many times. I just needed to open my eyes. If it was longer and maybe a bit more sustained it would be considered classic for sure. But the moves are very cool.

Climb Underdog (5.10a) which just gets more fun every time I climb it. Then just before the anchor head a little right to the first bolt of the Simon Bar Sinister extension. After clipping this bolt, make a few hand traverse moves right as you get in to the steep stuff. There is a big flake like hold out right that can yield a bit of a kneebar. At the second bolt you hit some small crimps and get a bit exposed as the relatively low angle rock of Underdog falls away. A few more little crimp moves lead to the lip and the best part yet. A hard move on to a slab using crimps and delicate footing will finish it up. The promise of a big airy fall if you run out of gas looms in the back of your mind.

Location

As you approach the anchor of Underdog (5.10a) head slightly right and follow 3 bolts out the steep wall above to the quick-clip anchor of Iron Man (5.11c).

Protection

12 bolts to quick-clips.

Photos