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Simon Bar Sinister
5.12b YDS 7b French 26 Ewbanks VIII+ UIAA 26 ZA E5 6b British
Avg: 2.6 from 23
votes
Routes in The Main Cliff
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Ali Babbler S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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As The World Burns S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Beat Junkie S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c |
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Fat Man S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Fear of Abraham T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Going Nuts S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c |
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Gold Digger S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Goldbug S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Goldbug Finish S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Goldmember S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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Gunboat Diplomacy S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Iron Man S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Know Ethics S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Little Big Man S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Millenium Falcon S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Peanut Man S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Rap Echo S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Rock de Jours T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c X |
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Rock Du Jours Direct S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Rocket Fuel S 5.14a 8b+ 32 X+ 32 E8 7a |
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Rocket Man S 5.13d 8b 31 X 32 E8 7a |
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Shiskebob T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a PG13 |
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Simon Bar Sinister S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Skewer, The S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c |
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Sky Lab (incomplete) T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a A3 R |
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Space Shuttle T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Steel Curtain S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Supersize Me S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Sweet Polly Purebred S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Thang, The S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Thin Man S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c |
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Thing, The S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Underdog S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Via Ferrata S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Working Man S,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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| Type: | Sport |
| FA: | chris smith 12/99 |
| Page Views: | 3,801 total · 18/month |
| Shared By: | Lee Hansche on Jan 7, 2008 |
| Admins: | Jay Knower, M Sprague, Jeffrey LeCours, Jonathan S, Robert Hall |
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Description
A short but really very fun extension to Underdog. I'm always surprised by how many quality lines are hiding in the hills of Rumney. The big surprise here is that this extension was hiding above a route I've done so many times. I just needed to open my eyes. If it was longer and maybe a bit more sustained it would be considered classic for sure. But the moves are very cool.
Climb Underdog (5.10a) which just gets more fun every time I climb it. Then just before the anchor head a little right to the first bolt of the Simon Bar Sinister extension. After clipping this bolt, make a few hand traverse moves right as you get in to the steep stuff. There is a big flake like hold out right that can yield a bit of a kneebar. At the second bolt you hit some small crimps and get a bit exposed as the relatively low angle rock of Underdog falls away. A few more little crimp moves lead to the lip and the best part yet. A hard move on to a slab using crimps and delicate footing will finish it up. The promise of a big airy fall if you run out of gas looms in the back of your mind.
Climb Underdog (5.10a) which just gets more fun every time I climb it. Then just before the anchor head a little right to the first bolt of the Simon Bar Sinister extension. After clipping this bolt, make a few hand traverse moves right as you get in to the steep stuff. There is a big flake like hold out right that can yield a bit of a kneebar. At the second bolt you hit some small crimps and get a bit exposed as the relatively low angle rock of Underdog falls away. A few more little crimp moves lead to the lip and the best part yet. A hard move on to a slab using crimps and delicate footing will finish it up. The promise of a big airy fall if you run out of gas looms in the back of your mind.
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