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Routes in Main Cliff

Ali Babbler S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
As The World Burns S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Beat Junkie S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Fat Man S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Fear of Abraham T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Gold Digger S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Goldbug S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Goldbug Finish S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Goldmember S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Gunboat Diplomacy S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Iron Man S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Know Ethics S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Little Big Man S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Millenium Falcon S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Peanut Man S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Rap Echo S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Rock Du Jours Direct S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Rock de Jours T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c X
Rocket Man S 5.13d 8b 31 X 32 E8 7a
Shiskebob T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a PG13
Simon Bar Sinister S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Skewer, The S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Sky Lab (incomplete) T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a A3 R
Soup to Nuts S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Space Shuttle T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Steel Curtain S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Supersize Me S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Sweet Polly Purebred S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Thang, The S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Thin Man S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Thing, The S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Underdog S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Via Ferrata S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Working Man T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Type: Sport
FA: Scott Stevenson, 1991
Page Views: 2,884 total, 21/month
Shared By: Jay Knower on Nov 1, 2006
Admins: Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey.LeCours, Robert Hall

You & This Route


41 Opinions

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Description

One route left of Thin Man, Rap Echo climbs a steep gray schist wall and moves slightly left into lower angled orange rock. The transition from steep to slabby presents the crux of the route. I distinctly remember fearing for my shins while I was contemplating standing on the glassy smear at the lip of the slab. Many have trusted the smear and have stood up, only to encounter thirty feet of hyper technical smearing and edging. Many others, however, have taken the whip. The fall is a big one, but it's pretty safe.

Maybe it should be called "Slab Echo."

Protection

6 bolts.
Jay Morse
Hooksett, New Hampshire
 
Jay Morse   Hooksett, New Hampshire
 
I don't understand how this amazing route sitting right in the middle of one of the most popular crags at Rumney flies under the radar. If you're a fan of thin, technical climbing put this one on your short list. This is a perfectly safe route - I took the fall standing up on the slab plenty of times from all sorts of different positions and it's totally fine. The sketchy reputation is totally unwarranted and probably stems from the fact that slab climbing is a weakness for many people at Rumney and that we get spoiled by rarely having bolts below our feet. The only way you're hitting the deck is if you are reaching super high to clip the 4th bolt and blow it or your belayer sucks. But if you're good at trusting your feet - which you better be to climb this route, it won't be a issue.

There is often wetness in the area around the 2nd bolt, but I've found that the route is still very doable in that condition and you'll probably only have to use one wet crimp. The route stays nice and toasty in the Winter sun and always seems to be open while 5 people are in line for Peanut Man. I bet it feels a grade harder if you do it on a hot, humid day in the Summer.

Get on it! Nov 21, 2017
Ryan Johnson
chattanooga tn
Ryan Johnson   chattanooga tn
Clip off the right hand jug-sidepull. with the right feet, its bomber... Jun 7, 2007
Ladd    
Sorry, I pulled the jug off for the 1st bolt clip Jan '06. Apr 11, 2007