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Routes in The Main Cliff
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Ali Babbler S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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As The World Burns S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Beat Junkie S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c |
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Fat Man S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Fear of Abraham T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Going Nuts S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c |
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Gold Digger S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Goldbug S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Goldbug Finish S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Goldmember S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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Gunboat Diplomacy S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Iron Man S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Know Ethics S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Little Big Man S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Millenium Falcon S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Peanut Man S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Rap Echo S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Rock de Jours T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c X |
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Rock Du Jours Direct S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Rocket Boy S 5.13c/d 8b 31 X 31 E8 7a |
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Rocket Fuel S 5.14a 8b+ 32 X+ 32 E8 7a |
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Rocket Man S 5.13d 8b 31 X 32 E8 7a |
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Shiskebob T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a PG13 |
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Simon Bar Sinister S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Skewer, The S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c |
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Sky Lab (incomplete) T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a A3 R |
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Space Shuttle T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Steel Curtain S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Supersize Me S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Sweet Polly Purebred S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Thang, The S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Thin Man S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c |
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Thing, The S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Underdog S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Via Ferrata S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Working Man S,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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| Type: | Sport |
| FA: | Mark Sprague and Jay Conway |
| Page Views: | 2,545 total · 12/month |
| Shared By: | Lee Hansche on Feb 4, 2008 · Updates |
| Admins: | Jay Knower, M Sprague, Jeffrey LeCours, Jonathan S, Robert Hall |
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Access Issue: Upper pitches of Main Cliff and Main Cliff Right were closed 5/2/25 for peregrine nesting (Summit is back open)! Signs were posted but may not be obvious.
Details
Description
Another very worth while extension on Main Cliff, better for sure than the original extension to Goldbug (Goldbug Finish 5.12b). This one heads out left then up a steep crimpy wall with much shorter reaches than its neighbor to the right and a similar fun sloper mantel crux/finish.
Start by climbing Goldbug (5.10d). Clip a long draw on the anchor and traverse left to clip the first bolt on Goldfinger. Head up following the eyebolts up the steep face which is climbed for the most part on very straight forward crimps. The first crux is about halfway up the crimp section where the feet sort of aren't where you want them (kind of missing a right foot). Just paste your foot and go. "Thank god" crimps above this hard move give you a shake out and get you to the sloper finish. Once you mantel, the anchor awaits.
I found it hard to clip the 4th bolt until I was halfway through the top out, which works fine. However, a long draw may help you clip from lower down if you don't like climbing hard moves a bit above your last bolt.
Start by climbing Goldbug (5.10d). Clip a long draw on the anchor and traverse left to clip the first bolt on Goldfinger. Head up following the eyebolts up the steep face which is climbed for the most part on very straight forward crimps. The first crux is about halfway up the crimp section where the feet sort of aren't where you want them (kind of missing a right foot). Just paste your foot and go. "Thank god" crimps above this hard move give you a shake out and get you to the sloper finish. Once you mantel, the anchor awaits.
I found it hard to clip the 4th bolt until I was halfway through the top out, which works fine. However, a long draw may help you clip from lower down if you don't like climbing hard moves a bit above your last bolt.
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