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Routes in Main Cliff

Ali Babbler S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
As The World Burns S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Beat Junkie S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Fat Man S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Fear of Abraham T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Gold Digger S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Goldbug S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Goldbug Finish S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Goldmember S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Gunboat Diplomacy S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Iron Man S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Know Ethics S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Little Big Man S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Millenium Falcon S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Peanut Man S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Rap Echo S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Rock Du Jours Direct S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Rock de Jours T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c X
Rocket Man S 5.13d 8b 31 X 32 E8 7a
Shiskebob T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a PG13
Simon Bar Sinister S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Skewer, The S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Sky Lab (incomplete) T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a A3 R
Soup to Nuts S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Space Shuttle T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Steel Curtain S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Supersize Me S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Sweet Polly Purebred S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Thang, The S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Thin Man S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Thing, The S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Underdog S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Via Ferrata S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Working Man T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Type: Sport
FA: Mark Sprague and Jay Conway
Page Views: 1,034 total, 9/month
Shared By: lee hansche on Feb 4, 2008
Admins: Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey.LeCours, Robert Hall

You & This Route


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Description

Another very worth while extension on Main Cliff, better for sure than the original extension to Goldbug (Goldbug Finish 5.12b). This one heads out left then up a steep crimpy wall with much shorter reaches than its neighbor to the right and a similar fun sloper mantel crux/finish.

Start by climbing Goldbug (5.10d). Clip a long draw on the anchor and traverse left to clip the first bolt on Goldfinger. Head up following the eyebolts up the steep face which is climbed for the most part on very straight forward crimps. The first crux is about halfway up the crimp section where the feet sort of aren't where you want them (kind of missing a right foot). Just paste your foot and go. "Thank god" crimps above this hard move give you a shake out and get you to the sloper finish. Once you mantel, the anchor awaits.

I found it hard to clip the 4th bolt until I was halfway through the top out, which works fine. However, a long draw may help you clip from lower down if you don't like climbing hard moves a bit above your last bolt.

Location

Start at the anchor for Goldbug (5.10d) and head straight up the steep wall.

Protection

From the Goldbug anchor it's 4 bolts to a 2 bolt anchor.

Photos

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lee hansche
goffstown, nh
 
lee hansche   goffstown, nh  
 
Thanks Greg, I think I saw you climbing over there. I was psyched cause I haven't used the draws I put up as much as I had planned. Feb 25, 2017
Fyi, I had two hands on the last hold (the decent one) before the lip on 2/21/17. I heard a crack, and could've sworn I felt the thing move. It still feels solid, and isn't hollow, but there seems to be a hairline crack on the left side. Be careful, it would be a big chunk falling quite a ways on the belayers below. Feb 23, 2017
M Sprague
New England
 
M Sprague   New England  
 
In case you are confused by the description where Lee mentions Goldfinger, that was just the alternate name I was using for Goldmember.

As far as clips go, I tend to bolt hard clips as hip clips so you don't have to pull as much rope out, so if you are trying to clip too early, they may be harder. Mar 29, 2011
Jay Knower
Campton, NH
 
Jay Knower   Campton, NH  
 
This is a very worthwhile extension. It is MUCH more straightforward than a lot of other Rumney 12's. It sort of feels like a little chunk of The Gallery at Red Rocks. Oct 17, 2009