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Routes in Main Cliff

Ali Babbler S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
As The World Burns S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Beat Junkie S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Fat Man S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Fear of Abraham T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Gold Digger S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Goldbug S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Goldbug Finish S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Goldmember S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Gunboat Diplomacy S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Iron Man S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Know Ethics S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Little Big Man S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Millenium Falcon S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Peanut Man S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Rap Echo S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Rock Du Jours Direct S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Rock de Jours T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c X
Rocket Man S 5.13d 8b 31 X 32 E8 7a
Shiskebob T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a PG13
Simon Bar Sinister S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Skewer, The S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Sky Lab (incomplete) T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a A3 R
Soup to Nuts S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Space Shuttle T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Steel Curtain S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Supersize Me S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Sweet Polly Purebred S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Thang, The S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Thin Man S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Thing, The S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Underdog S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Via Ferrata S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Working Man T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Order Wrong? Sort Routes
Type: Trad
FA: Ron Raynolds 1981
Page Views: 3,890 total · 30/month
Shared By: lee hansche on Jan 30, 2008
Admins: Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey LeCours, Jonathan Steitzer, Robert Hall

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Description

A cool little trad pitch hidden in the open between two 5.12's. If you like finger cracks this one has your name on it as it is a perfect splitter layback finger crack leaning right. It's a bummer that it's a little too short. The crux is pulling over a small tricky roof low down on the route.

Climbing this route is a good way to set up a top rope on Rap Echo (5.12a/b).

Climb up under the small roof lowdown and place a couple pieces before tackling the crux pull over the roof (harder than it looks). Take a little rest and then enjoy sweet laybacking and finger-locking up the corner and if you close your eyes and dream you might believe its a hundred feet long but when you open your eyes the sweet section is still about 25 feet long. Oh well, you're at Rumney and you're climbing a sweet crack, what more can you expect?

Location

Right between Rap Echo (5.12a/b) and the Skewer (5.12c). Look for the nice crack angling right.

Protection

Mostly small/finger-sized stuff but bring up to a red or yellow Camalot.
M Sprague
New England
 
M Sprague   New England  
 
Nice series of Lily on the route, Lee. It is totally worth bringing the gear up for this route..very sweat finger locks in the corner. Oct 5, 2011
lee hansche
goffstown, nh
 
lee hansche   goffstown, nh  
 
thanks mark, and yeah well worth bringing a few pieces up there... rumney my not be known for rad trad but there are a few gems... Oct 6, 2011
Eli .
GMC3500
  5.9+
Eli .   GMC3500
  5.9+
Sweet route! Way harder than it looks, this is how I define 9+ in new england (probably feels like 11a for height or reach impaired person). Awesome movement! Apr 8, 2015
Jay Morse
Hooksett, New Hampshire
 
Jay Morse   Hooksett, New Hampshire
 
I loved it! A fun, tough puzzle to get out of the roof, and then just a beautiful crack. Very well protected and stays mostly dry in the rain. Get on it. May 15, 2016

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