Type: Trad
FA: Ron Raynolds 1981
Page Views: 4,078 total · 30/month
Shared By: lee hansche on Jan 30, 2008
Admins: J Beta, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey LeCours, Jonathan Steitzer, Robert Hall

You & This Route


38 Opinions

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Description

A cool little trad pitch hidden in the open between two 5.12's. If you like finger cracks this one has your name on it as it is a perfect splitter layback finger crack leaning right. It's a bummer that it's a little too short. The crux is pulling over a small tricky roof low down on the route.

Climbing this route is a good way to set up a top rope on Rap Echo (5.12a/b).

Climb up under the small roof lowdown and place a couple pieces before tackling the crux pull over the roof (harder than it looks). Take a little rest and then enjoy sweet laybacking and finger-locking up the corner and if you close your eyes and dream you might believe its a hundred feet long but when you open your eyes the sweet section is still about 25 feet long. Oh well, you're at Rumney and you're climbing a sweet crack, what more can you expect?

Location

Right between Rap Echo (5.12a/b) and the Skewer (5.12c). Look for the nice crack angling right.

Protection

Mostly small/finger-sized stuff but bring up to a red or yellow Camalot.
M Sprague
New England
 
M Sprague   New England  
 
Nice series of Lily on the route, Lee. It is totally worth bringing the gear up for this route..very sweat finger locks in the corner. Oct 5, 2011
lee hansche
goffstown, nh
  5.9+
lee hansche   goffstown, nh  
  5.9+
thanks mark, and yeah well worth bringing a few pieces up there... rumney my not be known for rad trad but there are a few gems... Oct 6, 2011
Bobby Mustard
  5.9+
Bobby Mustard  
  5.9+
Sweet route! Way harder than it looks, this is how I define 9+ in new england (probably feels like 11a for height or reach impaired person). Awesome movement! Apr 8, 2015
Jay Morse
Hooksett, New Hampshire
 
Jay Morse   Hooksett, New Hampshire
 
I loved it! A fun, tough puzzle to get out of the roof, and then just a beautiful crack. Very well protected and stays mostly dry in the rain. Get on it. May 15, 2016