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Areas in *Rumney

*Rumney Bouldering 5 / 0 / 5 / 266 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 271
5.8 Crag 6 / 13 / 2 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 21
Apocalypse Walls 2 / 8 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 1 / 0 / 0 / 10
Armed and Dangerous Area (Main Cliff Left) 8 / 26 / 0 / 1 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 34
Asylum, The 0 / 7 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 7
Bakery, The 1 / 2 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 3
Balcony, The 0 / 3 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 3
Below the New Wave 0 / 6 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 6
Bonsai 5 / 17 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 22
Boundary Rock 0 / 4 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 4
Buffalo Corral, The 0 / 11 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 11
Buffalo Pit 5 / 12 / 1 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 18
Crow's Nest, The 3 / 20 / 1 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 24
Darth Vader 2 / 7 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 9
G-Spot, The 0 / 7 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 7
Gem Hunter 1 / 11 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 12
Hail Vader 3 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 3
Haunted House 1 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 1
Hinterlands, The 8 / 18 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 1 / 0 / 0 / 26
Höhe Hinterland 3 / 2 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 5
Infinity Wall 2 / 2 / 1 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 5
Jimmy Cliff 10 / 18 / 1 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 28
Kennel Wall 5 / 11 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 16
Left of Venus Wall (The Bradley White Wall) 13 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 13
Main Cliff 6 / 28 / 1 / 0 / 0 / 1 / 0 / 0 / 34
Main Cliff Right 7 / 17 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 24
Meadows, The 5 / 25 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 30
Monolith , The 0 / 4 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 1 / 0 / 0 / 4
Monsters from the Id 1 / 16 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 16
New Wave 2 / 18 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 20
Northwest Territories, The 4 / 16 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 20
Orange Crush 1 / 31 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 32
Parking Lot Wall, The 2 / 22 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 24
Prudential, The 5 / 19 / 1 / 0 / 0 / 1 / 0 / 0 / 24
Pulse Wall 6 / 9 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 15
Roadside Attraction 1 / 0 / 1 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 1
Starship Enterprise 1 / 7 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 8
Summit Cliff (The Highlands) 2 / 15 / 1 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 18
Triple Corners 19 / 28 / 2 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 47
Upper Darth Vadar 1 / 6 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 7
Utopia Ledges (True Summit Ledges) 16 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 16 / 16
Venus Wall 2 / 13 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 15
Very Nice Crag, The 4 / 12 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 16
Waimea 6 / 50 / 2 / 0 / 0 / 1 / 0 / 0 / 58
Wonderland 9 / 3 / 1 / 0 / 0 / 1 / 0 / 13 / 13
Yellowknife Buttress 4 / 14 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 1 / 0 / 0 / 18

Description

Rumney is one of the premier sport climbing destinations in the country. This area has become a focal point of hard sport climbing, with climbers from all over the world visiting during the fall season.

Numerous crags dot the hillside of Rattlesnake Mountain above the sleepy town of Rumney, New Hampshire. Each crag is distinct in character but similar in rock type: schist. It is the rock that sets Rumney apart. The schist is reminiscent to wood, as the rock crystals form a definite "grain."

While many sport climbing areas climb walls, the routes at Rumney climb features, be they aretes, grooves, dikes, corners, or cracks. Therefore, the lines feel more defined than at other climbing areas.

Also, unlike many other sport climbing areas, Rumney offers quality climbs at all grades. From 5.3 to 5.15a, the visiting climber can surely find a challenging and engaging route. Add a supportive and positive local scene, incredible fall colors, and well-equipped routes, and Rumney ranks among the best sport crags on earth.

For more information including the current management plan, new route moratorium areas, where to eat and stay, guides etc. check out the Rumney Climbers Association web site http://www.climbrumney.com/
Peregrine Falcon Closures Details

Getting There

Interstate 93 is the main north/south artery in New Hampshire. From all points north or south. Take 93 to exit 26. Follow Rt 25 West for a few miles following signs for the town of Rumney. You will go through a couple sets of lights, then a rotary, and finally 2 blinking yellow lights. At the second blinking light turn right on to Main st. In less than a mile you will cross a bridge and be in "downtown" Rumney (a small New England village. Please be courteous and drive slowly) Here you turn left on to Buffalo Rd. The "Rumney Rocks" parking area will be on your right in about a mile.

From points west, take Interstate 91 to Highway 25. Head east on this and follow signs to Rumney. From points east, get yourself to 93 and refer to above directions from there.

The cliffs are complex and many. Ward Smith's guidebook for Rumney is a must.

Winter Climbing

For descriptions of Rumney's popular ice routes, see Rumney Ice Climbs.

Concerns

PARKING: There are two parking lots at Rumney: the big lot right below Parking Lot Wall and the Meadows, and the small lot a quarter mile down the road, closer to Main Cliff. Parking is at a premium at Rumney, especially on the nice weekends, and if you show up late, you’re likely to find the lots full. In that case, there is overflow parking across the street (for a fee). You may also park at the town library, about one mile to the east at the Rumney town center. Better yet, consider heading elsewhere when the lots are full.

WALKING ON THE ROAD: The short answer is: DO NOT WALK OR HANG OUT ON THE ROAD. The longer answer is: Most of the cliffs are accessed by trails leading from the big lot and the small lot. If you must walk on the road, (maybe you’ve parked at the town library and you’re heading back to the main lots), make sure to walk alertly and single file on the left, getting as far off the road as possible when cars come. Locals use the road to access the dump, so the road can be quite busy on the weekends. There have been numerous near misses, with cars having to swerve violently out of the way of climbers. The best course of action is to stay out of the road entirely.

As always, at any climbing area, please keep your voices down, don't leave trash, old tarps or wood pallets under the boulders. Particularly, do not bellow profanities.

1,019 Total Climbs

Route Finder - Best Climbs for YOU!

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Classic Climbing Routes at *Rumney

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
V1 5
Zig Zag Crack
Boulder
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Underdog
Sport
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Lonesome Dove
Sport
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Jolt
Sport
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Armed and Dangerous, and Off My Medic…
Sport
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Millenium Falcon
Sport
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Waimea
Sport
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Peer Pressure
Sport
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Tropicana
Sport 2 pitches
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Flying Hawaiian
Sport
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Black Mamba
Sport
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Apocalypse Later
Sport
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Social Outcast
Sport
5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
Flesh For Lulu
Sport
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Technosurfing
Sport
Zig Zag Crack *Rumney Bouldering > Black Jack Boulders > Zig Zag Boulder V1 5 Boulder
Underdog Main Cliff 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Sport
Lonesome Dove Jimmy Cliff 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Sport
Jolt Hinterlands 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Sport
Armed and Dangerous, and Of… Armed and Dangerous Area (Main C… 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Sport
Millenium Falcon Main Cliff 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Sport
Waimea Waimea 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b Sport
Peer Pressure Bonsai 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b Sport
Tropicana Orange Crush 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Sport 2 pitches
Flying Hawaiian Waimea 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c Sport
Black Mamba Orange Crush 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a Sport
Apocalypse Later Apocalypse Walls 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a Sport
Social Outcast Bonsai 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Sport
Flesh For Lulu Meadows > Holderness Corner 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a Sport
Technosurfing Waimea 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b Sport
More Classic Climbs in *Rumney »

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M Sprague
New England
M Sprague   New England  
Along the road, unfortunately. Just stay single file, and facing incoming traffic (opposite of many places) and there shouldn't be a problem. Jul 7, 2017
M Sprague
New England
M Sprague   New England  
A 70 m rope is not required for most of the climbs, but it adds a safety margin to quite a number which are right at the limit of a 60 m and allow linking of some pitches. I would recommend the 70 for the Orange Crush, Main Cliff and a few routes at the Hinterlands/Yellowknife areas. Jul 9, 2012
Keys found on ground at Starship. Left at farthest kiosk in larger parking lot. Sep 24, 2017
Rob King
New Brunswick, NJ
Rob King   New Brunswick, NJ
Is there a trail from library parking lot to the main lots or is the only way to walk along the road? Jul 7, 2017
Jonathan Foster-Moore, that campground, Rattlesnake Mountain Campground, is still operational. We stayed there this past week (June 26-29). Jul 1, 2017
Jonathan Foster-Moore   Boston, MA
Any news re: the house/camping area across from main parking lot? The guy was trying to sell it and I'm wondering if folks can still camp there. Jun 30, 2017
Tyson Miller
Lebanon, NH
Tyson Miller   Lebanon, NH
Ward's New Guidebook coming out in Mid July. Pre Order available: rumneyclimbing.com/ Jun 23, 2017
nhclimber
Newmarket, NH
nhclimber   Newmarket, NH
This may be dated information. But, years ago i always used to camp past stinson lake on the left, opposite, side of the road. It was maybe 15-20 minutes to the crag. But, then any camping i have had in moab is that or greater anyway. I checked with the forest service at the time (2001-2002) and it was cool and able to have a fire and such. Sep 22, 2016
M Sprague
New England
M Sprague   New England  
Climber discount, Brian, but you have to mention you are a climber. The owners are very climber friendly. Sep 22, 2016
Brian
North Kingstown, RI
Brian   North Kingstown, RI
Eric, It's $10 per additional person but $34 for a tent site. Unless you are getting a special deal or their web site is wrong.
bakerrivercampground.com/ra… Sep 22, 2016
Eric Leclerc
Montreal
Eric Leclerc   Montreal
The climber's rate at Baker River Campground has been $10.00 per person per night no matter how many climbers there are on the site. Cheryl the owner just bumped it up to $12.00 for the 2016 season. Still a good value as far as I'm concerned. Sep 21, 2016
RynkoD
Billerica
RynkoD   Billerica
I haven't called Baker River Campground,I will call them tomorrow and see what they can work out. I'm okay with spending $10 thats reasonable. But as I said I don't need anything fancy at all, just a place to put a tent. My dog is a service animal so we typically don't ever have trouble. Thanks guys....any other advice would be great Sep 20, 2016
M Sprague
New England
M Sprague   New England  
$34 for a tent site (includes showers, but that is for 2 adults and up to 3 children. They give a discount if you mention you are a climber. I know I have never paid $34 even when I had a site to myself ( but maybe bc I'm cool :)) The Little Inn (link above) is really nice and owned by climbers; highly recommended if you can spare the few bucks more, especially late or early in the season.
bakerrivercampground.com/sa… Sep 20, 2016
Brian
North Kingstown, RI
Brian   North Kingstown, RI
Yup...$34 is the rate for a tent site at Baker River. I recommend staying at the Little House Inn and Hostel right in Rumney village. It is $40 and you get a bed and hot shower. Lots of climbers there and nice folks who run it. Sep 20, 2016
M Sprague
New England
M Sprague   New England  
Did you mention you are a climber? That seems high. I pay $10 to tent there. It could be bc I usually join friends who have a site. That is the place I would recommend, especially if you have a dog, as they don't allow pets at the place directly across the street from the climbing. Sep 20, 2016
RynkoD
Billerica
RynkoD   Billerica
Hey Guys,

So I recently moved East, I was previously living in Moab Utah. Definitely a huge change for me! But I am looking at going to Rumney for the weekend 9-23. One thing I am not used to this the huge camping regulations. I'm used to free camping and huge climbing community around us. I have my dog with me and I need some advice on camping areas near Rumney. I know nothing of the area, I am fine with paying a little for camping. I was just looking at Baker River Campground and they want a $34 a night! I don't need any amenities or anything fancy.

I have always relied on Mountain Project any advice would be great. Also anyone else going to be around this week!? Sep 20, 2016
M Sprague
New England
M Sprague   New England  
At Rumney we are moving more toward using Ram's Horns (also called Pig Tails) at the top anchors to provide a strong, durable, replaceable and easy to use means for lowering off that doesn't require untying. Someone posted this video in a thread
youtu.be/a5FTe27pR1Q

Take a look. It should help those not yet familiar with the horns.

Of course, as with other fixed anchors, avoid top roping through them directly by using you own gear to take the wear and only the last person in the party directly lowers through the horns. Jun 16, 2016
Eric8
Maynard, MA
Eric8   Maynard, MA
It is neither legal nor ethical to camp in the lot. You can pay to camp across the street. There a few other pay campgrounds around town too. Additionally, you can camp primitively in the white mountain national forest, look up the requirements online and look at a map for possible locations. May 18, 2016
Does anyone know if it's a) Legal b) allowed c)"ethically OK" to sleep in your car in the parking lot? Assuming you've paid for both days, have the pass up, are not disruptive...

If not that (which I would totally understand), can you still camp across the street at the farm? May 18, 2016
M Sprague
New England
M Sprague   New England  
The Little House Inn It is owned by local climbers Pete and Shana Jackson (great people) and is right in the Rumney village, across the street from the Common Cafe and only 1/2 mile from the crags. They have both bunks and private rooms and a well equipped kitchen available to guests. I stayed last fall and waking up in a big elegant bed with tons of pillows and a view over the village I was thinking I wanted to move in permanently. Mar 23, 2016
I'm a visiting climber from Spain. Does anyone know a good place to stay in Rumney area that is not a campsite? There are a few motels in Plymouth but I'd rather be somewhere with cooking facilities. Any suggestions greatly appreciate it. Ah! Any must-do routes recommendation also welcome. Thanks a bunch Mar 23, 2016
Guillaume Labranche
Bellevue, WA
Guillaume Labranche   Bellevue, WA
I'm not sure if this is common knowledge but this past Labour Day weekend the parking lots were full and we were able to park (3$/day) at the big barn on Buffalo Road right before the first parking lot. Much closer than parking in town. The man also had camping spots. Sep 9, 2015
Derek Jf
Northeast
Derek Jf   Northeast
mike ward topos? must be those super-secret limited edition underground gb's Aug 27, 2015
Just had a beer at the common cafe corner of Quincy Road and Main Street in Rumney, awesome place, awesome owners! they have four 2nd edition mike ward topos left & they're not selling them for fortune. Maybe just a small one :) Aug 19, 2015
lee hansche
goffstown, nh
lee hansche   goffstown, nh  
normally the latest date for the cliffs to reopen is Aug 1st. Most years the closures are lifted well before this. I have seen no signs up there recently so I am thinking that it should be good... But if waiting a week is fine you should surely be in the safe zone by then :) Jul 23, 2015
Matt Levine
Concord, NH
Matt Levine   Concord, NH
What's the current status of peregrine closures? Still Yellowknife/Asylum/Summit Cliff etc.? Thanks! Jul 22, 2015
M Sprague
New England
M Sprague   New England  
I am not sure if Brian is referring also to being lowered rather than rapping. In most cases at Rumney lowering off the fixed anchor if you are the last one of the party is fine, in fact it is the recommended procedure by those who place the anchors. May 11, 2015
Jeffrey.LeCours
New Hampshire
Jeffrey.LeCours   New Hampshire  
Brian, you can lead a horse to water but you can't make it drink. Keep fighting the good fight. May 11, 2015
Brian Shade
Saranac Lake, NY
Brian Shade   Saranac Lake, NY
We spent the weekend in Rumney last week. It was very helpful to use the mountain project app due to the book being out of publishing. We spoke with lots of other climbers while searching for routs, this being our first time in the area. This area is very well established and well maintained. The climbers have put a lot of effort and money into making it easy for use. Though with this ease comes misuse. I stopped and informed a few visitors to the area, some new and some returning, when they were misusing the anchors. The general public that gets into climbing through their local gym and their friends don't get the education that guides and professionals in the industry have. The sign in the parking lot, "please do not top rope on our gear, use your own", doesn't explain it all. Some climbers are not informed enough. The groups that I talked to had either not read the sign or didn't know that any time the rope is weighted and running through the gear it is considered a top rope set up and is putting unnecessary wear on the gear. These climbers were for the most part thankful to have the information though others continued to use the gear how they pleased... We as a climbing community need to inform ourselves and those around us. If we don't help to keep each other accountable then these areas will not be around for us to use. Keep Rumney informed. May 9, 2015
Eli
Lives in a truck
Eli   Lives in a truck
Greetings Rumney Climbers,
I made a map predicting traffic at Rumney, find it here: mountainproject.com/v/rumne…

I'll also post a jpeg of it somewhere on here. May 6, 2015
Derek Jf
Northeast
Derek Jf   Northeast
Thanks for sharing Mark Apr 24, 2015
M Sprague
New England
M Sprague   New England  
Here is a link to a scanned copy of Den Danna's original 1992 Rumney guide book 'Schist Another Hangout - Rumney Rock Notes' , thanks to Benjamin Buck . It was the first published exclusive Rumney guide (after Ted Hammond's Rumney section in Webster's 'Rock Climbs in the White Mountains of New Hampshire' (2nd edition, 1987)
docs.google.com/file/d/0B9z… Apr 23, 2015
S. Neoh  
Maybe the falcons, on seeing the mobs of climbers at Main Cliff, decided not to nest here. Either way, I am not sure I want to hang out at Main Cliff yet due to the instability. Apr 28, 2014
M Sprague
New England
M Sprague   New England  
It was great seeing so many individuals and groups show up for all the trail work, route maintenance etc.

We were thinking to cycle through the crags, not all at once, but frequently enough to try to keep old and worn gear from building up. I high percentage of the fixed gear at Monsters was in a sorry state. If we can, we will try to post up a warning here and/ or on the RCA website so people can get any personal project draws off beforehand, but do remember that the 14 day rule of the Forest Service is still in place. They have been patient with us and are cognizant of the need for some of them, but they are not blind to the proliferation. It may not be possible to give prior warning since it is volunteer and a lot of work.

Everyone can help by not leaving gear up on routes that aren't being actively used or which is easily placed and removed such as with a stickclip (like ones at hip height at Monsters). Don't be absolutely completely lazy please. Remove old worn gear when you see it too, instead of expecting somebody else to do it. Lots of people put effort and time into placing fixed gear and dragging tarps and other things into the crags, but not so many into removing it all when it becomes trash. Jul 1, 2013
Cool, thanks for the update Lee. I should of checked the monsters page thread. I will say the cliff looks noticebly cleaner, glad it was part of a clean up effort and not some random act of a hyper opinionated individual. Do you think other cliffs will also see a stripping of old fixed gear? Waiema? Jun 30, 2013
lee hansche
goffstown, nh
lee hansche   goffstown, nh  
the stripping of fixed gear at monsters was part of the trail work/clean up last week. Mark posted a conditions report on the monsters page mountainproject.com/v/monst… to explain... Jun 30, 2013
Was at monsters today and noticed all the draws have been removed. This is a recent occurrence, they were there a week prior. Anyone know the deal with this? Jun 30, 2013
Christian Prellwitz
Telluride, CO
Christian Prellwitz   Telluride, CO
twellman-- I've always used my national parks pass and I've never had an issue (in terms of getting a ticket). I believe that somewhere (perhaps on the parking lot signs) it says that the pass is accepted. I simply leave the card on my dash. May 19, 2013
twellman
Cambridge
twellman   Cambridge
Anyone know if you can use the America the Beautiful national parks pass for parking at Rumney? Maybe you just leave the card on your dashboard? May 17, 2013
S. Neoh  
Phil, I, for one, applaud your willingness to switch out manky aluminum biners for steel ones. On high traffic'ed route, I believe the move from al to steel is the right way to go as long as we are going to let the fixed draws remain on the route.
I have climbed many of the moderate, most popular routes this Spring and I have yet to see anything too worn at the top anchors. Granted I have not been on Masterpiece this year yet. May 11, 2013
M Sprague
New England
M Sprague   New England  
I assume you mean fixed draws and maybe the rings/clippies at the anchor. As far as worn fixed draws, there is no ethical quandary. Remove them. Better to have nothing there than warn out stuff. As far as replacing them, the last time the RCA had a vote on fixed draws it was decided in order to keep the numbers in control and not push against the Forest Service’s strictures against them too much, to limit them to crags further from the road (primarily Waimea and parts of Orange Crush and a few individual routes or bolts where they were really needed). A further cut off of 5.12 and up was decided on (again to keep the numbers down and various other reasons like use patterns etc.)
The RCA is currently working (verry sloowly)on formulating an updated plan for fixed draws, so in the mean time, I think if the route you have in mind follows the guidelines above and you really think it needs them, go ahead and replace them. Just use good quality gear that isn’t garishly colored. I think a good balance for those replacing or putting up fixed draws to reign in the fixed draw creep is at the same time find a route with fixed draws that isn’t really being used much and remove them. It is a good way for people to make more effort to inspect the stuff that is already up more.
As far as replacing worn anchors, if you can exchange them for some nice fat ½” quicklinks or heavy stainless rings (we'are now going more to SS Ram's Horns), everybody will appreciate that.

Contact the RCA for more information. Here on MP I know smithbro is one of the board members and might have more detailed info. May 11, 2013
phil g.  
This is a question at large. What is the ethics with replacing worn out perma gear on routes? if i decide to zone in to a project and feel like the gear on the route is dangerously worn, can i go ahead and replace it? if i decide to discard the worn out aluminum biners and replace them by long lasting steel ones, is that cool?

Thanks in advance for the opinions guys and gals. May 11, 2013
Matt Levine
Concord, NH
Matt Levine   Concord, NH
Just a friendly reminder for people to park ethically. Saturday morning a car was directly over the line in the second lot and took up two spaces. It was a busy morning, this is not cool! Apr 8, 2013
Great place to stay is Mountain Pines Campground. Not a far drive from Rumney and the owners are pretty chill. I believe the address is 2759 New Hampshire 25, Rumney, NH. It's a little further down the road than where the GPS will take you. Nov 1, 2012
iBolt  
someonre wrote: "We were climbing on Orangahang at Orange Crush on August 30th and another climber pointed out to us that one of the hanging draws had a really sharp carabiner on it. In view of the July incident, seems like it would be a good idea to watch for that draw and not use it."

i'm sorry if i sound like a "jerk" but a better idea would be to simply replace the "really sharp carabiner" with one of your own.

after all, someone else: cleaned the route for you, bolted the route, for you, built the trail to it, for you, squabbled with the forest service so you can climb there, for you... built the original parking lot, for you.

perhaps the least you could do to pay back some of the effort that others have done is to think: "wow, that biners worn out and dangerous... maybe i'll replace with one of my own...."

now is the time for YOU to do something to give back. it'd would be a "karma thing..."

if you climb there and something looks like it needs fixing, step up, do the right thing, and just fix it...

you don't have to coordinate with anyone, you don't have to be a member of the RCA, you don't have to spray on the internet, just fix the problem.

posting about it on the internet is not fixing it.

if the biner is worn, take it down and replace it....

ibolt Sep 2, 2012
JHeath  
It seems to me that instead of trying to play the blame game about something that has already happened it would be much more productive to come up with a solution so that an issue like this doesn't come up again. After all Rumney is an area of growing popularity, and I can only foresee more epics like this happening. Jul 17, 2012
iBolt  
I'll agree it was great that no one was hurt...

But, I'm having a very hard time seeing this as a battle in an "ethical war," rather than a case of someone who didn't take personal responsibility for his actions and safety and made a bad mistake.

Fortunately, he was very, very lucky.

The draws on "Man Overboard" have been there for a long time, too long... Was it responsible behavior to blindly trust a piece of gear that has been technically "abandoned" for years?

Obviously, there were other climbers at the cliff at the time: was it responsible behavior for the all knowledgeable "locals" not to point out that the draws are old and crappy? (After all, we're told in the above post that, "we knew this was happening....")

Did the climber have any responsibility to look at the gear and make an informed, personal decision as to his own safety?

Consider this: If you were going to try a route with the potential for a big whipper 70' off the ground and the "fixed" draws" were tatty, sun-bleached and worn would you:

a) Say "Wow, they look bad, I don't know if I can trust them, I could die, I guess I'll hang my own...."

OR

b) Say "Wow, they look bad, I don't know if I can trust them, I could die, but I'll just go for it...."

OR

c) Not even realize that a natural, outdoor climbing crag is NOT the same as a climbing gym (which are: for-profit, insurance regulated, micro-managed for safety,) and just assume that "someone else" is making it safe for me, and there is no need for me to have the faintest clue of how bad a mistake I could be making...

I believe it's dishonest to try to blame this near tragedy on a lack of support for putting perma-draws on every bolt of every hard route at Rumney.

It was human error that placed the fixed draws on the route, it was human error that didn't remove them when they got tatty, it was human error when no one warned the unfortunate climber of the bad condition of the draws, and it was human error when he clipped the draws....

Doesn't sound like there was any "ethics" involved...

If safety is the main concern, isn't it more safe for each individual climber be responsible for at least their own quick-draws?

iBolt Jul 16, 2012
matthewWallace
Sandwich, NH
matthewWallace   Sandwich, NH
Hey guys, it is really good to hear that the climber is fine and a tragedy was adverted. Up until now I have kept my opinion out of the fixed draw debate because I don't climb the routes with fixed draws, I'm not strong enough. However, I do not see the difference between fixed quickdraws and perma-draws. Quickdraws are fixed on many of the climbs in the .12 and up range. So why not equip them with a safer option? I have never seen anyone remove the draws on any of the routes that are currently fixed so they can hang their own gear. This is just my opinion and I hope it does not created a volatile discussion on the ethics, just seams to me that safety should take a priority. Cheers! Jul 16, 2012
S. Neoh  
ClimbTech now offers PermaDraws that have grey (instead of bright blue) tubing covering the cable part of the all-steel draw in an attempt to offer a product that has less visual impact.
A significant number of fixed draws at Rumney are past their useful life. My personal opinion is either replace the aluminum and nylon hardware with steel or remove the fixed draw(s) altogether ... before someone gets hurt or dies.

Here's more ethics war material - is the 'techno' ladder at Waimea gone for good or not? Jul 15, 2012
M Sprague
New England
M Sprague   New England  
There is nothing to keep people from removing worn gear but a little effort. Please do so if you see any. The roof of Man Overboard is one place where it seems there is a pretty strong consensus for the need for fixed slings, so if they were replaced with good quality, low visual impact stuff, it would not be a problem. Again, please remove old crappy gear even if you can't replace it, and don't just leave it for the next person. It is much better for somebody to not be able to easily get their redpoint than to have their rope cut. Jul 15, 2012
lee hansche
goffstown, nh
lee hansche   goffstown, nh  
its great that no one was hurt... we knew this was happening but thanks to the never ending ethics war over fixed draws nothing has been done! lets do something before we hear a tragic story instead of a scary one... Jul 15, 2012
Hey guys just as a heads up the fixed draws on the roof of man overboard at wieama are NO GOOD, they're groved and cut the sheaf on a French climbers rope yesterday, Luckly we were able to rescue belay him down, but PLEASE PLEASE get te word out, trying to spread the word as much as possible Jul 15, 2012
Jeffrey.LeCours
New Hampshire
Jeffrey.LeCours   New Hampshire  
I'd recommend using the Eastern States forums to find a partner. Posting here deters from crag comments. Jul 9, 2012
M Sprague
New England
M Sprague   New England  
I added a Southern White Mountains:Rumney conditions section to the neclimbs.com/forum.php so you can post up and check current conditions without cluttering it up too much here. If you post conditions there (please do), try to keep it on topic to keep it uncluttered and useful for finding quick information. Thanks. Dec 20, 2011
matthewWallace
Sandwich, NH
matthewWallace   Sandwich, NH
Some cool video footage of David Graham, Luke Parady and Joey Kinder from back in the day.
vimeo.com/28602948 Oct 13, 2011
M Sprague
New England
M Sprague   New England  
No, it is a parking pass. So as long as you do the funny walk across the street and through the lot, no fee. Sep 29, 2011
AdamJ13
Denver, CO
AdamJ13   Denver, CO
Do I still need to buy a Recreation Pass for my car if I plan on camping at the Farm (and leaving my car there) and just walking across the street to the crags? Sep 29, 2011
Camping at Mountain Pines Campground. Prices for all rock climbers all year is only $10.00 pp per night. Each site is private, picnic table and fire pit. Hot shower! No Reservations needed! We are open until the snow falls. Located just 2 miles from Rumney Rocks. Camp sites on Baker River.

Address is:
2759 Rte 25
Rumney NH 03266 any questions call 603-786-9955.

Hope to see you here! Sep 23, 2011
Jcomeau
North Conway
Jcomeau   North Conway
Whats the deal with camping here. IS it still cool to camp across the street at the farm? May 20, 2011
matthewWallace
Sandwich, NH
matthewWallace   Sandwich, NH
Rumney Bouldering, these are routes from Black Jack and The Pound!

youtube.com/user/niceporch#… Dec 20, 2010
E thatcher
Plymouth/ North Conway (NH)
E thatcher   Plymouth/ North Conway (NH)
Brian and the Commons Cafe provided the climbing community with some awesome coffee for the Nor'easters ACC pancake breakfast. Thanks a lot Brian, I hope visiting climbers recognize your support. Oct 20, 2010
The Common Cafe in Rumney New Hampshire 1/2 mile from The Rocks parking has great breakfasts and dinners (often music in the pub upstairs too) Check out our websight at thecommoncafeandtavern.com/ for more info. Its been a great climbing season so come on in and say hello. Oct 20, 2010
M Sprague
New England
M Sprague   New England  
Repost from NEClimbs:
I went up last night and early this morning and cleaned off most of the sketchy stuff that I could see. Any of you who were climbing or hanging out below since the avalanche would have been horrified if you had been able to see the stuff above you. A bunch of car hood size chunks slid off with hardly a nudge along with a ton of dinner plate size and smaller.

What originally fell out was a 40 foot wide by 20 plus foot high chunk of stone, from the top pitch of Iron Man all the way over to next to Rock Du Jours at the level of The Thang anchors. It was basically a humongous flake situated in a corner and sitting on a steeply down sloping ledge. It looked like a solid wall from below, the way most saw it, but from the top one could see that it was already detached and had a 9 inch crack behind it. The resulting ledge, once it is cleaned up more and the Thang anchor is replaced, looks like it would be a stunning place for a lunch or safety briefing. You could reach it by traversing in from Rock du Jours easily with some small cams for pro or by climbing the Thang.

Some bad news: I did notice a broken egg that looked like a peregrine's to me and was fresh enough that it had to be from this year. It was probably originally about the size of a hen's egg, browny red with speckles. I don't know much about Peregrines, but hopefully if they aren't disturbed, they will lay another.

Affected routes: The third pitch of Iron Man looks like it will be a lot harder, but still very doable and when it is cleaned up and a new top anchor put in, a nice, exposed, mostly trad test piece.
The Thang needs new anchors and a good sweeping of the top. The anchors were in the bottom of the giant missing flake. Rock du Jours seems unaffected. Gold Member and the Goldbug finish need their tops swept off.

I think most of the worst stuff has been removed, but it is probably a good idea to be especially careful where you hang out at the Main Cliff for a while. Mar 21, 2010
Jay Knower
Campton, NH
Jay Knower   Campton, NH  
ATTENTION: In March, 2010, there was a massive rockfall at Main Cliff. It probably originated above Iron Man, Gold Digger, or Rock du Jours. Be extremely careful when hanging out at the base near these routes. This area is very unstable. The possibility of another rockfall appears significant.

Please consider alternate cliffs until this area stabilizes.
Mar 17, 2010
lee hansche
goffstown, nh
lee hansche   goffstown, nh  
Main cliff, prudential and Waimea are the most consistent... yellow knife can be good too as well as darth vader and a couple others Jan 14, 2010
James Otey   NH
Prudential, Waimea, and Monsters are all good winter destinations. Jan 14, 2010
twellman
Cambridge
twellman   Cambridge
Hello Everyone

Im wondering about climbing at Rumney mid-winter. I would guess there are some cliffs that are better than others, in terms of like sunshine and snowmelt, etc. Does anyone have any advice on this? Probably main cliff and jimmy cliff are good destinations, any others? Jan 14, 2010
Jeffrey.LeCours
New Hampshire
Jeffrey.LeCours   New Hampshire  
Afterthoughts: bostonrockgym.wordpress.com… a worthwhile read Oct 27, 2009
James Otey   NH
So as to dispel any rumors about the Firetrucks and Sirens around pole 37 two Saturdays ago: A climber broke his leg while trying to make a ropeless ascent of Supernova. He is fine and expected to make a full recovery. Luckily he had friends with him to aid with the rescue. Oct 27, 2009
E thatcher
Plymouth/ North Conway (NH)
E thatcher   Plymouth/ North Conway (NH)
Please folks, be courteous and clean your tick marks when you are finished. It DOES degrade other peoples experience. Sep 23, 2009
Jcomeau
North Conway
Jcomeau   North Conway
Not a problem. Its only fair. You cant take it for granted. So many times i see when somone brings to somones attention, yet do not act on it themselves for what ever reason. Sep 17, 2009
matthewWallace
Sandwich, NH
matthewWallace   Sandwich, NH
You have inspired me I am going to be looking into fixing some anchors to, Just know we all appreciate the work you are will to put in to benefit everyone else thank you Sep 16, 2009
Jcomeau
North Conway
Jcomeau   North Conway
For me its simple. I climb there. I enjoy the place. I may not climb the hardest routes, but part of its mine and ito me its part of climbing there. Take care of it and it will last. No free rides for me. I dont mind putting in a little effort to pay back the oppurtunity to cimb there. Sep 16, 2009
matthewWallace
Sandwich, NH
matthewWallace   Sandwich, NH
I have always been under the impression that 3/8 or bigger and steel is the best bet, i did a little reading and it didn't say anything about stainless vs plated, so I am not sure about that. Anyone else have anything to add? JComeau thank you for the effort you are putting into this, we need more people in the climbing community who are willing to help out. Sep 15, 2009
Jcomeau
North Conway
Jcomeau   North Conway
would a 3/8 stainless or 7/16 plated be sufficient?
something like these fixehardware.com/screw_link… Sep 14, 2009
M Sprague
New England
M Sprague   New England  
Half inch quicklinks work great. 3/8" is fine for the top ones if you want to save a little. The 1/2" ones take the wear much better. I wouldn't bother with stainless steel quicklinks unless they are on stainless hanger type anchors or spots that stay wet a lot. Just make sure to put 2 on each hanger so the rope will run correctly. Spray them with some grey or black rustolium to take the shine off while you have them at home. I like them better than quickclips for the reason mentioned before; less of an urge to directly TR through them.

Edit- See comments below about ram's horns. They are only about 7$ each so end up being cheaper as well as better for many anchors. Sep 11, 2009
Jcomeau
North Conway
Jcomeau   North Conway
Hell ive left 4 binders up there already to lower off. Would a 1/2 screw link and a new hanger be sufficient? Although i think quick clips would be a bit easier on some of the harder clips. Sep 11, 2009
matthewWallace
Sandwich, NH
matthewWallace   Sandwich, NH
I thing the best thing to put woud be rap rings so people dont top rope of them as much so they wont wear out as fast. it will be very appreciaed if you do change/fix the worn gear we need more people like you. Sep 10, 2009
Jcomeau
North Conway
Jcomeau   North Conway
Considering replacing some top anchors next time i'm up as a lot of these are worn through. What would be the accepted variety to use? a regular screw link on a hanger, Or a setup similar to Fixe. Sep 10, 2009
lee hansche
goffstown, nh
lee hansche   goffstown, nh  
Until the guide comes out the maps ive been posting can serve as a "Ghetto Guide"... Here is a link to a forum where ive posted the 30+ maps ive put up so far... Print em out and at least you will know most of what is there and how hard it is...


mountainproject.com/v/easte… Sep 8, 2009
jenner  
We climbed Rumney last month and loved it! I have to say that the best part of the weekend stay (other than climbing) was camping at Mountain Pine's Campground. It's only about a mile away from the climbs and the owners are amazing. We were there Friday, Saturday and Sunday. Friday's weather was beautiful, as was Saturday until it started to pour Saturday night. We would have been soaked if the owners hadn't stopped by and put up a canopy so that we could finish cooking dinner. They also wheeled down a whole bunch of fire wood to keep us warm. That's unheard of where I come from. Cheers to the owners! Jun 19, 2009
lee hansche
goffstown, nh
lee hansche   goffstown, nh  
These days id say Mountainproject is a must since this is the best guide to rumney!!! :) Mar 29, 2009
lee hansche
goffstown, nh
lee hansche   goffstown, nh  
Today I was outraged to watch as an ignorant redneck threw a half-full Redbull can from his pickup truck at a climber's face....the climber was a nice, unsuspecting dude walking well off the road....
He only sustained a cut on his chin, but WTF? I never thought I'd see that on Buffalo Rd....
We were unable to get the plate number on the truck...bummer.... Jul 1, 2007

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