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Rumney is one of the premier sport climbing destinations in the country. This area has become a focal point of hard sport climbing, with climbers from all over the world visiting during the fall season.
Numerous crags dot the hillside of Rattlesnake Mountain above the sleepy town of Rumney, New Hampshire. Each crag is distinct in character but similar in rock type: schist. It is the rock that sets Rumney apart. The schist is reminiscent to wood, as the rock crystals form a definite "grain."
While many sport climbing areas climb walls, the routes at Rumney climb features, be they aretes, grooves, dikes, corners, or cracks. Therefore, the lines feel more defined than at other climbing areas.
Also, unlike many other sport climbing areas, Rumney offers quality climbs at all grades. From 5.3 to 5.15a, the visiting climber can surely find a challenging and engaging route. Add a supportive and positive local scene, incredible fall colors, and well-equipped routes, and Rumney ranks among the best sport crags on earth.
For more information check out the Rumney Climbers Association web site climbrumney.com/
Interstate 93 is the main north/south artery in New Hampshire. From all points north or south. Take 93 to exit 26. Follow Rt 25 West for a few miles following signs for the town of Rumney. You will go through a couple sets of lights, then a rotary, and finally 2 blinking yellow lights. At the second blinking light turn right on to Main st. In less than a mile you will cross a bridge and be in "downtown" Rumney (a small New England village. Please be courteous and drive slowly) Here you turn left on to Buffalo Rd. The "Rumney Rocks" parking area will be on your right in about a mile.
From points west, take Interstate 91 to Highway 25. Head east on this and follow signs to Rumney. From points east, get yourself to 93 and refer to above directions from there.
The cliffs are complex and many. Ward Smith's guidebook for Rumney is a must.
Do not park along the road! It is illegal, you may get fined and towed and it really aggravates the locals. Carpool from a meeting spot as much as possible and have alternative plans for if the lots are full (Head up to Waterville?)
WALKING ON THE ROAD: The short answer is: DO NOT WALK OR HANG OUT ON THE ROAD. The longer answer is: Most of the cliffs are accessed by trails leading from the big lot and the small lot. If you must walk on the road, (maybe you’ve parked at the town library and you’re heading back to the main lots), make sure to walk alertly and single file on the left, getting as far off the road as possible when cars come. Locals use the road to access the dump, so the road can be quite busy on the weekends. There have been numerous near misses, with cars having to swerve violently out of the way of climbers. The best course of action is to stay out of the road entirely.
As always, at any climbing area, please keep your voices down, don't leave trash, old tarps or wood pallets under the boulders. Particularly, do not bellow profanities.
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