Elevation: 800 ft
GPS: 43.802, -71.837 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 2,928,553 total · 16,239/month
Shared By: Jay Knower on Oct 2, 2006 · Updates
Admins: Jay Knower, M Sprague, Lee Hansche, Jeffrey LeCours, Jonathan Steitzer, Robert Hall

Description

Rumney is one of the premier sport climbing destinations in the country. This area has become a focal point of hard sport climbing, with climbers from all over the world visiting during the fall season.

Numerous crags dot the hillside of Rattlesnake Mountain above the sleepy town of Rumney, New Hampshire. Each crag is distinct in character but similar in rock type: schist. It is the rock that sets Rumney apart. The schist is reminiscent to wood, as the rock crystals form a definite "grain."

While many sport climbing areas climb walls, the routes at Rumney climb features, be they aretes, grooves, dikes, corners, or cracks. Therefore, the lines feel more defined than at other climbing areas.

Also, unlike many other sport climbing areas, Rumney offers quality climbs at all grades. From 5.3 to 5.15a, the visiting climber can surely find a challenging and engaging route. Add a supportive and positive local scene, incredible fall colors, and well-equipped routes, and Rumney ranks among the best sport crags on earth.

For more information including the current management plan, new route moratorium areas, where to eat and stay, guides etc. check out the Rumney Climbers Association web site climbrumney.com/

Getting There

Interstate 93 is the main north/south artery in New Hampshire. From all points north or south. Take 93 to exit 26. Follow Rt 25 West for a few miles following signs for the town of Rumney. You will go through a couple sets of lights, then a rotary, and finally 2 blinking yellow lights. At the second blinking light turn right on to Main st. In less than a mile you will cross a bridge and be in "downtown" Rumney (a small New England village. Please be courteous and drive slowly) Here you turn left on to Buffalo Rd. The "Rumney Rocks" parking area will be on your right in about a mile.

From points west, take Interstate 91 to Highway 25. Head east on this and follow signs to Rumney. From points east, get yourself to 93 and refer to above directions from there.

The cliffs are complex and many. Ward Smith's guidebook for Rumney is a must.

Do not park along the road! It is illegal, you may get fined and towed and it really pisses off the locals. Carpool from a meeting spot as much as possible and have alternative plans for if the lots are full (Head up to Waterville?)

Winter Climbing

For descriptions of Rumney's popular ice routes, see Rumney Ice Climbs.

Concerns

PARKING: There are three parking lots at Rumney: the big lot right below Parking Lot Wall and the Meadows, the small lot a quarter mile down the road closer to Main Cliff, and a third newer lot another ~mile down the road, adjacent to the west-most crag Buffalo Pit. Parking is at a premium at Rumney, especially on the nice weekends, and if you show up late, you’re likely to find the lots full. In that case, there is overflow parking across the street (for a fee). You may also park at the town library, about one mile to the east at the Rumney town center. Better yet, consider heading elsewhere when the lots are full.

WALKING ON THE ROAD: The short answer is: DO NOT WALK OR HANG OUT ON THE ROAD. The longer answer is: Most of the cliffs are accessed by trails leading from the big lot and the small lot. If you must walk on the road, (maybe you’ve parked at the town library and you’re heading back to the main lots), make sure to walk alertly and single file on the left, getting as far off the road as possible when cars come. Locals use the road to access the dump, so the road can be quite busy on the weekends. There have been numerous near misses, with cars having to swerve violently out of the way of climbers. The best course of action is to stay out of the road entirely.

As always, at any climbing area, please keep your voices down, don't leave trash, old tarps or wood pallets under the boulders. Particularly, do not bellow profanities.

1,198 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Rumney

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
V1 5
 212
Zig Zag Crack
Boulder
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 755
Lonesome Dove
Sport
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
 361
Millenium Falcon
Sport
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
 471
Waimea
Sport
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b V2 5+
 84
Black Jack Crack
Trad, Boulder
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
 273
Flying Hawaiian
Sport
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
 95
The Crusher
Sport
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
 86
Stoned Temple Pilot
Sport
5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
 208
Flesh For Lulu
Sport
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
 197
Technosurfing
Sport
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
 99
Whip Tide
Sport
5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
 131
Giant Man
Sport
5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
 90
Venus on a Halfshell
Sport
5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
 79
Flying Monkeys
Sport
5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
 71
Predator
Sport
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Zig Zag Crack Rumney Bouldering > … > Zig Zag Area > Zig Zag Boulder
 212
V1 5 Boulder
Lonesome Dove Jimmy Cliff
 755
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Sport
Millenium Falcon Main Cliff
 361
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Sport
Waimea Waimea
 471
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b Sport
Black Jack Crack Rumney Bouldering > … > Black Jack Boul… > Black Jack Boulder
 84
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b V2 5+ Trad, Boulder
Flying Hawaiian Waimea
 273
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c Sport
The Crusher Orange Crush
 95
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a Sport
Stoned Temple Pilot Prudential
 86
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Sport
Flesh For Lulu Meadows > Holderness Corner
 208
5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a Sport
Technosurfing Waimea
 197
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b Sport
Whip Tide Waimea
 99
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b Sport
Giant Man Hinterlands
 131
5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b Sport
Venus on a Halfshell Venus Wall
 90
5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b Sport
Flying Monkeys Orange Crush
 79
5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b Sport
Predator Orange Crush
 71
5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c Sport
More Classic Climbs in Rumney »

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