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Routes in Armed and Dangerous Area (Main Cliff Left)

Anchovy Caper, The S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Armed and Dangerous, and Off My Medication S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Arugula, Arugula S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Barbershop Duet T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13
Big Easy, The S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Boats from Cuba T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Bonnie and Clyde S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Bourbon Street S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Brendan's Bitches T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Cereal Killer S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Climb and Punishment S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Cloud Atlas S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Clusterphobia S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Far From Feral S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Fish Corner S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b V1- 5-
Flying Squirrel S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Green Mile S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Half Nelson 5.7/ Full Nelson 5.11b S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Juicy Fingers T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Maltese Falcon, The S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Maria's Variation T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Men In White Suits S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Mentally Disturbed S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Mesresha S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Metamorphosis S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Mitosis S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Panama Hat (aka Mister Meaner) S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Rainbow S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Scene of the Crime S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Sesame Street S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Slack T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Slick T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Toxic Gumbo S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
White Buttress, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Type: Sport
FA: Sport version bolted by Mark Sprague, but it uses terrain first climbed by Bradley White, Tom Bowker, Ted Hammond and others in the early 80s
Page Views: 12,016 total, 93/month
Shared By: lee hansche on May 10, 2007
Admins: Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey.LeCours, Robert Hall

You & This Route


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Description

The original route by this name took a wondering adventure line, starting on the left, across and up the cliff. This sport version is a bit more direct, covering fun steep terrain at a 5.8+ grade.

Pitch 1: Start right of Armed and Dangerous (5.10b). Look for a high bolt above aboute 25 feet of very easy, ledgy climbing. Reach up, clip the bolt and follow a crack up to a corner with good holds where you can stem and then move right up a ramp, then finally make moves straight up the steep headwall on good holds (Look around for them) Top out the headwall and continue up a short easy, very featured slab to a second bulge. Lower from the anchor. ( a 60m rope just makes it!)

Pitch 2: Don't bother. Since the first anchor got raised, it is now very short, undistinguished and likely very dirty. The anchor may have been removed also.

Edit- The lower anchor has been raised above the second bulge, so it is usually done as one long pitch, forgoing the lesser quality top. A 70m rope recommended, though you can just get down with a 60 from this anchor if careful.

Location

Right of Armed and Dangerous.

Protection

Pitch 1: 10 bolts to anchor.
Pitch 2: You can continue up another couple bolts to a high anchor if you wish as one pitch, but you will need to do 2 raps or lower with a 70m to get down..
Alec Woolley
Nottingham, NH
 
Alec Woolley   Nottingham, NH
 
Did the second pitch for the hell of it and its interesting to say the least. Very dirty, filled with moss, lichen, a ledge entirely made of pine needles that will slide off the cliff if stepped on. I reverse led it back down to the first pitch anchor to lower off but I'd only recommend this pitch to anyone looking for something new. Jul 5, 2017
bradley white
Bend
  5.8+
bradley white   Bend
  5.8+
Your'e welcome. The route's name has memorabilia. We all had fun making it.
Keeping facts straight and getting rid of the fiction, I have done my part to keep them separated for decades. The two seem to be attached at the hip. You are correct Mark, my great descriptions sometimes do people wrong because they are not such great descriptions. So I rewrite the descriptions again and again sometimes. I climb in some wide open out there places and descriptions are difficult to write. Oct 16, 2012
M Sprague
New England
 
M Sprague   New England  
 
Thanks, Bradley, for the compliment on the bolting and removing the rock. Sorry if there was an error in attributing the FA. I was always told that it was you and Ted, with the impression of swapped leads. That is why I asked him about bolting it, since I knew him and you were not known to be around at the time. Ted may not have even remembered it well at the time, since he only told me the original line came from the left after the fact. (edit- or were you referring to the bolted line being nothing to do with Ted?).

As far as the guidebook goes, I wouldn't be too harsh on Ward. There would often be conflicting information, and to be honest, often what you write can be pretty confusing. Under the pressure of deadlines and getting something out, he had to go with the best he could figure Also, his guidebooks are catering mostly to those looking for fully established free climbs and not so much the exploratory adventure ones, so some of your mixed aid routes might not fit that category. As he received clarification, he made corrections in the next edition as far as I can see, a la Smoke Stack> Cold Shoulder. Sifting though the facts for routes done decades ago, often in heavily intoxicated states, in different styles, by rivalrous individuals can't always be easy. Aug 29, 2012
bradley white
Bend
  5.8+
bradley white   Bend
  5.8+
I finally climbed Mark Sprague's Metamorphosis's variation. This route has nothing to do with Ted, besides that he belayed me to lead the ramp. I thought the route was all (5.7-7+) except one move where the eye bolts become a hanger bolt anchor. The top moves appear hard until the commitment is made. Didn't bother with the top pitches and that section I've been there. I traversed over from 'Slick' tree ledge and quit at the anchor section to go up, not willing to go any further traversing on trad towards 'Slack'. Really nice bolting of the route Mark. The loosely cam block in the ramp is gone. I weigh about 200lbs and pulled hard on it because it was covered in chalk. I almost sent it down on two climber's below me. Put it back in place. They were getting set up for the 'Big Easy'. They moved and the rock was removed. It didn't change the grade for us not having it there.
More guide book nonsense Ted doing the first ascent, unless on some future date, he led Mark Sprague's variation. Aug 29, 2012
S. Neoh
  5.8-
S. Neoh  
  5.8-
You should be able to lower to the ground or very close to it from the anchors with the rope going through all the draws. That said, have your belayer put a big knot at the his/her end of the rope, just in case.
Enjoy! Jul 23, 2012
Going this week for the first time. When you all talk of a 60m rope just touching the ground, is that during the rappel off the top? Jul 23, 2012
Jeffrey.LeCours
New Hampshire
 
Jeffrey.LeCours   New Hampshire  
 
"Go for it. I don't have the finances to retrobolt my old climbs. I enjoyed the route. It was originally the only way we had to getting to the upper ledge."

Comment by bradley white on June 11th, 2010 7:24 am Jul 20, 2012
Jeffrey.LeCours
New Hampshire
 
Jeffrey.LeCours   New Hampshire  
 
"No.
Ted Hammond led the first pitch starting at the same place as 'Juicy Fingers' and did the same start crux as 'Scene of the Crime' (What a mess. I don't get it with all these new names to parts of one old climbs. It's cool, I'm chillin out, not getting it) and he then went on to do some more of the 'Crime'. Ted traversed onto what is now called 'Metamorphosis' and continued right until he I believe Ted did the first crux of 'Armed and Dangerous'. Ted traversed to end on the cliff belaying above the start to 'Slack' It was an intriguing climb. I led up from there moving onto the broken ramp bulge right of 'Clusterphobia' that I believe begins here and continues directly up the crack/fault face. From the bulge's top I was able to traverse right to climb directly up with one piton for protection (undesirable at the time face). At the tree ledge I believe we finished up 'Slick'.
The second (short) and third pitch of 'Big Easy' were climbed by me and ? that same summer but after the crux we went right of the pine tree and then up the same line (it could have been the same day) to finish 'Metamorphosis'.
The climb 'Metamorphosis' was basically abandoned by us. The pins on the first pitch I had paid for them. The amount of pins were too expensive for the distance covered, so I pulled them all out (maybe that was crime?). We were not impressed by the second and third pitches because of the lack of pro and too much dirtiness.
Your understanding of Slick is right on. The giant 'slick' rock, we used to lace it with gear. I was one of the newest kids on the block then. I believe the top pitch of 'Slick' was led by Chris Hassig but Tim may have done it first.
'Metamorphosis' first pitch was rated 5.9, it was an ascending traverse to 'Slack', solely protected by lost arrow and bugaboo pitons.
Anchors would be good where 'Slick's' corner ends. They'll be those who won't be able to get over the wall onto the ramp finish."

Comment by bradley white on June 10th, 2010 11:06 am Jul 20, 2012
Jeffrey.LeCours
New Hampshire
 
Jeffrey.LeCours   New Hampshire  
 
"Tom Bowker, Ted Hammond and I did the climb. The second pitch is just right of 'Clusterphobia' and then joins up with the finish of first pitch of 'Big Easy'. Big Easy's last pitch also was done then or shortly after that. Ted led the first pitch."

Comment by bradley white on June 9th, 2010 11:28 am Jul 20, 2012
Bill L.
  5.8
Bill L.  
  5.8
Climbed it in one pitch, as I think most people do. Really great climbing at the grade. Depending on where you belay from, you will be cutting it close with a 60m rope, DO NOT LOWER YOUR CLIMBER OFF THE ROPE!! Mar 29, 2012
Michael Buchanan  
  5.8
Best warm-up i have ever been on, long and overhanging. Super good. Jun 18, 2011
Tim Wolsonovich
Boston
  5.8
Tim Wolsonovich   Boston
  5.8
Fun jug haul. Good warm up b4 you try A&D. Sep 19, 2010
S. Neoh
  5.8-
S. Neoh  
  5.8-
Stellar, probably my fav easy route at Rumney now.
If my draw count is correct, it might be 12 or 13 incl the 2 for the anchors. But skipping a bolt or two is not big of a deal if one is solid at the grade of 5.8. Jul 3, 2010
tscupp
Englewood, CO
  5.8
tscupp   Englewood, CO
  5.8
Did this for the first time and it is now my new favorite moderate line (first pitch only). Holds are good and the moves are fun and continuous up the ramp and above. The line never seems to end which was great. The only thing that detracts from this route was the rope drag which made clipping up high a pain so perhaps long slings down low would help this, but it could also be that the rope runs along that spiny schist for so long that the friction accumulates (The bolt job is very good btw - the rope runs in a fairly straight line despite the wandering beginning).

I think I needed 11 draws which includes the chains. Jun 21, 2010
M Sprague
New England
 
M Sprague   New England  
 
Thanks for the history, Bradley. I'll try to get an anchor on that corner this year if Ward doesn't do it before me. He had mentioned wanting to do it also.
What do you think about an anchor on Brendan's Bitches and maybe a few bolts? That always looked like it would be a nice longish moderate pitch for people to do with a bit of cleaning of the loose stuff and anchors. I think many people would enjoy it. Jun 10, 2010
M Sprague
New England
 
M Sprague   New England  
 
So Bradley, did you guys go up from where the Sesame anchors are now? And did you start way over to the left, the way I understood it? Any memory of who lead that, and did they then continue up the white buttress or stop at the trees to the left?

My understanding is that Slick went up the beautiful left leaning corner above the first pitch anchors of Big Easy, then pulled up onto the slab using the right side of the huge flake that is now on the ground. The third pitch went up the seem of the upper buttress. Is that correct and was it Tim Gottwells who lead that? I have heard conflicting stories.

It would be nice to put anchors at the top of that corner, as it now pretty much dead ends without the flake. It's one of the classic trad pitches of Rumney Jun 9, 2010
Jake D.
Northeast
Jake D.   Northeast
someone tick marked just about every hold on this route :( I wish i had had the time to go brush them all off. it was effing lame. Apr 26, 2010
Chad Laflamme
North Conway, NH
Chad Laflamme   North Conway, NH
60 Meter rope just makes it to the ground. Watch out for a loose block near a "traverse" up top, lots of chalk on it, but not a very necessary hold. May 4, 2009
M Sprague
New England
 
M Sprague   New England  
 
The bolted version actually starts to the right of Armed and Dangerous, with a high first bolt (abt 20 ft)in the short overhang that accesses the corner.

The first anchor has just been raised up to above the second bulge, so you will need a few more quickdraws. A 60 meter rope should get you down from there if you watch the end while lowering and the belayer doesn't stand out from the cliff. I might remove the few bolts above and the higher set of anchors as they don't add much to the quality of the climb and the hardware could be better used elsewhere. Apr 21, 2009
M Sprague
New England
 
M Sprague   New England  
 
After retroing this route, with permission of the FA'ist, Ted told me that the original line actually started out at Scene of the Climb, cut across Slack, joined into what is now bolted, then continued up and rt.

The second pitch of the sport version is something I added, but never got to clean much. It has some interesting climbing that is worth doing once, with an overlap that puts it at about the same grade, maybe a little easer, than the first. The 2 pitches can be combined as one for the lead, but the mid anchor will be needed for the lower off. I can't remember if a 70 m rope will just get you down all the way from the top. Oct 21, 2008