Avg: 3.3 from 664 votes
|FA:||Sport version bolted by Mark Sprague, but it uses terrain first climbed by Bradley White, Tom Bowker, Ted Hammond and others in the early 80s|
|Page Views:||18,772 total · 107/month|
|Shared By:||Lee Hansche on May 10, 2007 · Updates|
|Admins:||Jay Knower, M Sprague, Lee Hansche, Jeffrey LeCours, Jonathan Steitzer, Robert Hall|
The original route by this name took a wandering adventure line, starting on the left, across and up the cliff. This sport version is a bit more direct, covering fun steep terrain at a 5.8+ grade.
Pitch 1: Start right of Armed and Dangerous (5.10b). Look for a high bolt above aboute 25 feet of very easy, ledgy climbing. Reach up, clip the bolt and follow a crack up to a corner with good holds where you can stem and then move right up a ramp, then finally make moves straight up the steep headwall on good holds (Look around for them) Top out the headwall and continue up a short easy, very featured slab to a second bulge. Lower from the anchor. ( a 60m rope just makes it!)
A 70m rope recommended, though you can just get down with a 60 from this anchor if careful.
Pitch 2: Don't bother. Since the first anchor got raised, it is now very short, undistinguished and likely very dirty. The anchor may have been removed also.
Pitch 1: 10 bolts to anchor. Bring plenty of long draws and one or two alpine draws(shoulder length slings) so you can keep the rope running smoothly. If you take care with with that there shouldn't be much drag on the last moves the top.
Pitch 2: Seldom done and not recommended since the first anchor got moved up. You can continue up another couple bolts to a high anchor if you wish as one pitch, but you will need to do 2 raps or lower with a 70m to get down. The upper anchor may also be missing hardware.