Avg: 3.2 from 439 votes
|FA:||Sport version bolted by Mark Sprague, but it uses terrain first climbed by Bradley White, Tom Bowker, Ted Hammond and others in the early 80s|
|Page Views:||12,125 total · 92/month|
|Shared By:||lee hansche on May 10, 2007|
|Admins:||Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey.LeCours, Robert Hall, Jonathan Steitzer|
DescriptionThe original route by this name took a wondering adventure line, starting on the left, across and up the cliff. This sport version is a bit more direct, covering fun steep terrain at a 5.8+ grade.
Pitch 1: Start right of Armed and Dangerous (5.10b). Look for a high bolt above aboute 25 feet of very easy, ledgy climbing. Reach up, clip the bolt and follow a crack up to a corner with good holds where you can stem and then move right up a ramp, then finally make moves straight up the steep headwall on good holds (Look around for them) Top out the headwall and continue up a short easy, very featured slab to a second bulge. Lower from the anchor. ( a 60m rope just makes it!)
Pitch 2: Don't bother. Since the first anchor got raised, it is now very short, undistinguished and likely very dirty. The anchor may have been removed also.
Edit- The lower anchor has been raised above the second bulge, so it is usually done as one long pitch, forgoing the lesser quality top. A 70m rope recommended, though you can just get down with a 60 from this anchor if careful.