Type: Sport
FA: Sport version bolted by Mark Sprague, but it uses terrain first climbed by Bradley White, Tom Bowker, Ted Hammond and others in the early 80s
Page Views: 16,739 total · 103/month
Shared By: lee hansche on May 10, 2007
Admins: Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey LeCours, Jonathan Steitzer, Robert Hall

You & This Route

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The original route by this name took a wondering adventure line, starting on the left, across and up the cliff. This sport version is a bit more direct, covering fun steep terrain at a 5.8+ grade.

Pitch 1: Start right of Armed and Dangerous (5.10b). Look for a high bolt above aboute 25 feet of very easy, ledgy climbing. Reach up, clip the bolt and follow a crack up to a corner with good holds where you can stem and then move right up a ramp, then finally make moves straight up the steep headwall on good holds (Look around for them) Top out the headwall and continue up a short easy, very featured slab to a second bulge. Lower from the anchor. ( a 60m rope just makes it!)
A 70m rope recommended, though you can just get down with a 60 from this anchor if careful.

Pitch 2: Don't bother. Since the first anchor got raised, it is now very short, undistinguished and likely very dirty. The anchor may have been removed also.



Right of Armed and Dangerous.


Pitch 1: 10 bolts to anchor. Bring plenty of long draws and one or two alpine draws(shoulder length slings) so you can keep the rope running smoothly.

Pitch 2: Seldom done and not recommended. You can continue up another couple bolts to a high anchor if you wish as one pitch, but you will need to do 2 raps or lower with a 70m to get down..The upper anchor may also be missing hardware.