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Routes in New Wave

Air and Pleasant Danger S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Barking Spiders S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Black Dog Crack S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Dark Star S 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a
Daytripper, The S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Daze of Dark Scrutiny S 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b
Night Crawler S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Paradox S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Retrospade S 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a
Roaring Silence S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Salley's Alley S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Sam Spade T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Schist Another Crack T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Schist Another Sport Climb S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Short Wave S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Smokestack S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Strict Scrutiny S 5.13d 8b 31 X 32 E8 7a
Ten of Spades S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Vallee Daze S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Weevil Knevil S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
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Access Issue: Note: New route moratorium area Details

Description

New Wave is a small sunny cliff up towards the top of Rattlesnake Mountain. The rock on the left side is lighter in color, and more rich in Mica than the rest of Rumney. So, New Wave literally sparkles in the sun. This lighter rock is well featured and well bolted, making Sally's Alley (11c), Weevil Knevil (12a), and Roaring Silence (13b) some of Rumney's most enjoyable routes. Air and Pleasant Danger, a classic 5.8, is an adventurous, exposed line that follows the far left edge of the cliff. The rock on the right side of the cliff offers more fantastic climbing. Dark Star (13c/d), a crimpy technical face on black rock, is a favorite when dry. Ten of Spades, a blunt arete that climbs like sandstone, is one of Rumney's best and most technical 5.10's.

Since New Wave packs so many excellent routes from 5.8 to 5.14 onto one ledge, it's low on elbow space if too many parties are there at one time. Make sure you don't drop any gear, dogs, or children off the edge. It's a long way down.

Getting There

Follow the trail toward Orange Crush from the second parking lot. Where the trail goes left to Orange Crush, walk up and right. Follow cut steps in a log and a narrow trail up the hill to the left side of New Wave. The blunt arete at the head of the trail is Ace of Spades.

20 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at New Wave

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 163
Air and Pleasant Danger
Sport
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 71
Night Crawler
Sport
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
 141
Smokestack
Sport
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
 94
Black Dog Crack
Sport
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
 136
Ten of Spades
Sport
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
 67
Short Wave
Sport
5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
 3
Sam Spade
Trad
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
 85
Salley's Alley
Sport
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
 70
Barking Spiders
Sport
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
 81
Weevil Knevil
Sport
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
 69
Vallee Daze
Sport
5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
 11
Paradox
Sport
5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
 12
Roaring Silence
Sport
5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a
 8
Dark Star
Sport
5.13d 8b 31 X 32 E8 7a
 8
Strict Scrutiny
Sport
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Air and Pleasant Danger
 163
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Sport
Night Crawler
 71
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Sport
Smokestack
 141
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a Sport
Black Dog Crack
 94
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Sport
Ten of Spades
 136
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Sport
Short Wave
 67
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c Sport
Sam Spade
 3
5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c Trad
Salley's Alley
 85
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a Sport
Barking Spiders
 70
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a Sport
Weevil Knevil
 81
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Sport
Vallee Daze
 69
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Sport
Paradox
 11
5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b Sport
Roaring Silence
 12
5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c Sport
Dark Star
 8
5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a Sport
Strict Scrutiny
 8
5.13d 8b 31 X 32 E8 7a Sport
More Classic Climbs in New Wave »

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Photos

Ladd    
Many of the climbs on the left side of this cliff have a belay bolt, use it if your leader isn't solid at the grade(just remember to not keep you leash too tight). May 9, 2007
lee hansche
goffstown, nh
lee hansche   goffstown, nh  
Does anyone know what the routes are to the right of 10 of Spades? you know the ones right by the trail to Kennel Wall.... i've climbed them but i don't know names, grades and order of the ones that aren't in the book... Sep 3, 2009
Jeffrey LeCours
New Hampshire
Jeffrey LeCours   New Hampshire  
The internetz have told me that they might be:

Night Crawler - 5.9 (Balancey slab moves)
Schist Another Crack - 5.7 (trad gear to tree)

... but maybe someone who knows what they're talking about can confirm :) Sep 4, 2009
lee hansche
goffstown, nh
lee hansche   goffstown, nh  
thanks jeff but i think those are the ones in the old book.... there are now 3 bolted routes here im not sure if one is the 5.7 trad route thats been retroed... but i dont think so... anyway, thanks for your help and i guess we will keep researching, then i can finish my New Wave map :) Sep 4, 2009
I found an extendo draw with blue/black webbing, a purple petzl spirit carabiner on one end and a yellow black diamond carabiner on the other end at new wave yesterday. Please let me know if it's yours and I will try to get it back to you. Aug 15, 2010
Jay Knower
Campton, NH
Jay Knower   Campton, NH  
Does anyone know what's up with those anchors between Sally's Alley and Black Dog Crack? They're up and right of the Sally's Alley anchors on a steep face right below the top. Thanks! Aug 29, 2014

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