Elevation: 798 ft
GPS: 43.803, -71.834 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 46,405 total · 280/month
Shared By: Kayte Knower on Nov 26, 2006
Admins: Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey LeCours, Jonathan Steitzer, Robert Hall
Access Issue: Note: New route moratorium area Details

Description

New Wave is a small sunny cliff up towards the top of Rattlesnake Mountain. The rock on the left side is lighter in color, and more rich in Mica than the rest of Rumney. So, New Wave literally sparkles in the sun. This lighter rock is well featured and well bolted, making Sally's Alley (11c), Weevil Knevil (12a), and Roaring Silence (13b) some of Rumney's most enjoyable routes. Air and Pleasant Danger, a classic 5.8, is an adventurous, exposed line that follows the far left edge of the cliff. The rock on the right side of the cliff offers more fantastic climbing. Dark Star (13c/d), a crimpy technical face on black rock, is a favorite when dry. Ten of Spades, a blunt arete that climbs like sandstone, is one of Rumney's best and most technical 5.10's.

Since New Wave packs so many excellent routes from 5.8 to 5.14 onto one ledge, it's low on elbow space if too many parties are there at one time. Make sure you don't drop any gear, dogs, or children off the edge. It's a long way down.

Getting There

Follow the trail toward Orange Crush from the second parking lot. Where the trail goes left to Orange Crush, walk up and right. Follow cut steps in a log and a narrow trail up the hill to the left side of New Wave. The blunt arete at the head of the trail is Ace of Spades.

22 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at New Wave

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 181
Air and Pleasant Danger
Sport
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 89
Night Crawler
Sport
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
 165
Smokestack
Sport
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
 108
Black Dog Crack
Sport
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
 150
Ten of Spades
Sport
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
 73
Short Wave
Sport
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
 94
Salley's Alley
Sport
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
 76
Barking Spiders
Sport
5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a
 30
Retrospade
Sport
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
 87
Weevil Knevil
Sport
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
 80
Vallee Daze
Sport
5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
 13
Paradox
Sport
5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
 17
Roaring Silence
Sport
5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a
 9
Dark Star
Sport
5.13d 8b 31 X 32 E8 7a
 8
Strict Scrutiny
Sport
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Air and Pleasant Danger
 181
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Sport
Night Crawler
 89
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Sport
Smokestack
 165
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a Sport
Black Dog Crack
 108
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Sport
Ten of Spades
 150
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Sport
Short Wave
 73
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c Sport
Salley's Alley
 94
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a Sport
Barking Spiders
 76
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a Sport
Retrospade
 30
5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a Sport
Weevil Knevil
 87
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Sport
Vallee Daze
 80
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Sport
Paradox
 13
5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b Sport
Roaring Silence
 17
5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c Sport
Dark Star
 9
5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a Sport
Strict Scrutiny
 8
5.13d 8b 31 X 32 E8 7a Sport
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