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Routes in Orange Crush

Anaconda-Da-Vida S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Black Mamba S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
British Airways S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Buried Treasure S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Captain Hook S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Chinese Water Torture S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Citrasolve S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Crusher, The S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Drillary Step, The S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Dynosoar S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Fish Hooks S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Flying Monkeys S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Fresh Squeezed S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
King Cobra S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Lions and Tigers and Bears S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Oh My! finish S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Opportunist, The S 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Orangahang S 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
Orange Crush (retro-bolted) S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Orange Sunshine S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Original Orange Crush, The T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Peter Pan S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Predator S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Prime Climb S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Purple Microdot S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Sir Edmond Drillary S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Tin Man S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Tin Monkeys S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Tinkerbell S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Tropicana S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Vaporizer, The S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
White Snake S 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
Type: Sport, 2 pitches
FA: Ward Smith (P1), Steve Johnson (P2)
Page Views: 10,990 total, 81/month
Shared By: Jay Knower on Nov 8, 2006
Admins: Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey.LeCours, Robert Hall

You & This Route


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Description

Located beneath Predator's obvious overhanging prow, Tropicana climbs up interesting rock to a big belay ledge. The second pitch climbs up a hanging fin that looks a bit like a mini-Predator.

Pitch 1: Climb up steep rock to much easier climbing. The crux comes right at the end as the rock gets steep and weird. Belay on a two eyebolt anchor on a ledge.

Pitch 2: Climb up a steep wall and head out right onto the prow to anchors at the lip.

Protection

Bolts. A 60 meter rope is required to lower from the top anchors to the ground. If you have less than a 60, lower to the belay and have your belayer haul you in. Rap from the anchors on the ledge to the ground.
Careful up on the belay ledge, I think there might be a nest of some sort of biting ants.

Did this in the dark last week and could feel something biting my feet while belaying from the ledge, but couldn't see anything with a headlamp. Next day like fifty super itchy bites on my feet. Not poison ivy and definitely not mosquitoes.

Recommend pants/shoes/spray if you're going up to the ledge. Aug 21, 2017
James Otey
NH
  5.11a/b
James Otey   NH
  5.11a/b
After doing the first pitch of this today and lowering off, the dude on the second pitch on top of us knocked off a microwave sized block, which landed less than 10 feet from where we were standing at the time. It ended up landing on my pack and piercing through the back foam, the plastic/steel support insert, and the entire front material.

There aren't many places in Rumney where a near miss like this would be possible, but it was definitely a reminder for us to be more aware when climbing in proximity to other parties...

Backpack pics:

goo.gl/photos/vXQLvh1ou5Hm8…
goo.gl/photos/GYHtfLHwdsTD1…
goo.gl/photos/EnWajVfeR7Dzm… May 28, 2017
Jon Frisby
Brooklyn, NY
Jon Frisby   Brooklyn, NY
Hey my buddy pulled a softball-sized rock out of the first pitch about 20 feet up. Be careful on there! Oct 11, 2015
Nick Grant
Natick, MA & Tamworth, NH
 
Nick Grant   Natick, MA & Tamworth, NH
 
The finish of the climb on the big prow at the top (the exposed hand traverse) is one of the best sequences and situations to be found on a moderate climb (5.10-5.11) at Rumney. Simply awesome! Sep 26, 2015
M Sprague
New England
 
M Sprague   New England  
 
The formerly tenuous hold for setting up for the big left hand undercling horn in the crux seems to have "changed" to now be a good incut in the back. Still tricky to onsight, but the grade of the first pitch has been reduced to 10+ I think. I hadn't been on it for a while 'till yesterday and was reminded what a great climb it is. Aug 16, 2015
Ian Grant
Cambridge
 
Ian Grant   Cambridge
 
Did the route in one long pitch the other day and fought with some pretty horrendous rope drag towards the end. It's fun to skip the belay, but I wouldn't recommend it. I found myself resting on the ledge for a while anyway, and fighting the drag was the crux for me. If you do choose to link them up, bring a lot of long draws. Aug 19, 2014
Brunt Tornton
NH
  5.11a
Brunt Tornton   NH
  5.11a
doing this as one long pitch is recommended by me Oct 9, 2013
S. Neoh
  5.11a
S. Neoh  
  5.11a
Finally did P2 today. Really nice. A little less hard than P1 to me (maybe .10d?) but way more spectacular and the climbing is more varied than P1.
Question: Why was P2 not taken up to the top of the cliff? Was it because with a 60m rope and the current set of top anchors a climber could lower from the top to the ground even if the belayer is on the ground? Sep 22, 2012
Brendan Blanchard
Boulder, CO
 
Brendan Blanchard   Boulder, CO
 
I found the lower crux to be pumpy getting to that the jugs/big undercling rest, clip the fourth bolt then move up to the real rest ledge. The upper crux is a harder move or two, but not pumpy due to the rest right before. Love the route, and I've only done the first pitch! Apr 16, 2012
Jake D.
Northeast
Jake D.   Northeast
70M will reach back to the ground. I TR'd both pitches yesterday to clean the whole route at once (leader led it in 2 pitches technically. Would be impressive to lead both pitches at once. Jun 11, 2011
M Sprague
New England
 
M Sprague   New England  
 
I don't remember getting any bad drag on it, but I would have used some slings. I like to do The Opportunist next to it on top of the first pitch of Orange Crush as one pitch. I use some slings on OC and the mid anchor. It goes to the same height as the full Tropicana. Incidentally, The Opportunist is a great warm up for the harder routes if you take advantage of the fixed draws and skip the very top crux. The results is a nice pumpy, big hold , big move 5.11 on top of a 5.9 Aug 25, 2010
S. Neoh
  5.11a
S. Neoh  
  5.11a
Interesting. We have a 70m rope. Hmmm.
Mark, how's the rope drag doing both pitches in one push? I assume one ought to skip clipping the 1st anchor in this case, or if one does, use a 4-foot sling instead of a draw? Aug 25, 2010
M Sprague
New England
 
M Sprague   New England  
 
Yes, if my memory serves. Have the belayer tie in to be safe. Aug 25, 2010
tscupp
Englewood, CO
  5.11a/b
tscupp   Englewood, CO
  5.11a/b
Can you link both pitches and second with a 70m? I know it wouldn't really add any value to the climb because of the belay ledge but I'm just curious if it is possible. Aug 23, 2010
M Sprague
New England
 
M Sprague   New England  
 
Wait till you do the second pitch! You will get some extra wow factor up there May 6, 2010
matthewWallace
Sandwich, NH
  5.11a
matthewWallace   Sandwich, NH
  5.11a
This route is wonderful. I only did the first pitch and found there to be two cruxes. The first one after a few move off the ground around bolt three and the top one at the last two bolts. The top crux is harder though. This is a true classic and and gets all four stars from me. May 6, 2010