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Routes in Wonderland

Bad Sneakers T 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a R
Beat the Heat T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Chesire Cat S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b R
Fixing a hole T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Guillotine 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c C0
Magnum Opus T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Rocket Science S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Senior Citizen Route T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a R
So Alone S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Wendall's Dike T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a R
White Rabbit T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a PG13
White Tuxedo T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Wrong Turn T,TR 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13
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GPS: 43.802, -71.837 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
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Shared By: bradley white on Apr 5, 2010
Admins: Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey LeCours, Jonathan Steitzer, Robert Hall
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It's weird that at Rumney there is a crag that hasn't seen much traffic, and it is 150+ in height without the lower ledges of broken rock grooves to trees and dangerous steep dirt slopes included.
The middle of the crag is high mica content and some dangerous finned rock protrusions similar to the Hinderland's crag's content. These mica rock fins were once in middle of the route 'Jolt'. The dangerous fins were taken out and dropped below.
The upper part of Wonderland is lichen covered with better or usual Rattlesnake rock quality directly up and west. There is a long white Quartz extrusion here on the east side. East to this Quartz extrusion is a 40ft high dike. The opposite wall of the dike is a very steep bulging lichen free section 50ft high. The dike and this wall begin below at a protrusion of rock with pine trees above that. The big fire lit the crag's upper east side a little. Couldn't see any of the western upper side of this crag.
Not a place for everyone or for that matter anyone yet unless you are experienced in this kind of climbing at Rattlesnake. It's Wonderland it's an adventure. The hiking trail is directly below this crag. I listed it as Alpine because of the lichen covered sections, the soft mica quality rock in some places and the inability to loose control of any loose rocks.

Getting There

Hike towards the Hinderland's. The crag begins at the hand crack called Wrong Crack. Above that is a gully and left of the gully a steep ramp wall. Left of that is a large protrusion of rock and above that a wall that looks more like stacked boulders. 'Giant Man' buttress is above this area or left of it on the highest hillside section of Wonderland. This is where there used to be ladder to go down onto a ramp ledge with a eye bolt and trees. The climb 'Rocket Science is here. Nothing has been replaced to assist entry to this side yet.

13 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Wonderland

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Rocket Science
Sport, Alpine
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Rocket Science
5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Sport, Alpine
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Sandwich, NH
matthewWallace   Sandwich, NH
I see the route called Rocket Science is listed under The Hinterlands also, is there enough potential at "Wonderland" to warrant its own area? If so I will have to check it out... Apr 6, 2010
M Sprague
New England
M Sprague   New England  
I kind of like the name "Wonderland". When I checked it out years ago, I was all excited about the amount of rock that was up there too, but was put off by the loose, broken, vegetated approach. It may be worth another look for those willing to put in a lot of work, but like Bradley says, you are way above the approach trail, the edge of Triple Corners and even the Starship Enterprise Crag, so you would have to be super careful about anything cutting loose. I don't think it is worth having a bunch of fixed lines and ladders just to get up to a few mediocre routes. Somebody had a bunch of crap up there before, but I reduced it to the one ladder and moved it to where it is now to make it look better. With an imaginative way of dealing with the approach you might find something good though.

If you are looking for new route potential you may be better off looking up in the area around Very Nice Crack, up and left of Flea Surgeon (funky approach, maybe drop in from above like the Verdon), or one of the craglets above Bonsai (Pauly's Paradise). I won't tell you the other places yet ;) Apr 6, 2010
lee hansche
goffstown, nh
lee hansche   goffstown, nh  
ooooo my bad i didnt realize it was already posted... the guide book has it under hinterlands so i posted it there... if you want to take mine down thats fine but my description is a bit more in depth so i think it could be useful... Apr 7, 2010
lee hansche
goffstown, nh
lee hansche   goffstown, nh  
might this be a better place for Wrong Turn (5.10c)? Apr 7, 2010
M Sprague
New England
M Sprague   New England  
Sounds good to me. Maybe everything above the gully with the fixed line from Triple Corners, up to where you would skirt around to get to the ladder. There is interesting lower angled rock to the right of the gully leading up to The Crows Nest, but I feel it would entail too much destruction to a picturesque ecosystem to put up routes there. I guess that could be called Wonderland too though, as it is beautiful. I would recommend not climbing Wonderland opposite Giantman to protect all the ferns. Ward is going to have to do a new book soon! Apr 7, 2010
lee hansche
goffstown, nh
lee hansche   goffstown, nh  
Sounds good ill move my new route...
i agree whole heartedly about that wall of ferns i would love to see that stay the way it is... so pretty... I was eyeing it the other day but it wouldnt be worth killing such a cool eco system... Apr 7, 2010
M Sprague
New England
M Sprague   New England  
Wow, Bradley. Have a cup of coffee, and good day to you. Apr 8, 2010
M Sprague
New England
M Sprague   New England  
When we were talking about the fern garden and suggesting that it be preserved, we were talking about the wall up the gully further, opposite Giantman, not where you were climbing. I don't think either of us were mocking you or your adventurous climb at all. Apr 8, 2010
lee hansche
goffstown, nh
lee hansche   goffstown, nh  
wow bradley... first off as mark said we were not making fun of you in any way.... your post was a total blind side... our posts were unrelated to you and your route... you couldnt be more wrong about me... i was just looking at your route "Fixing a hole" the other day (thinking it hadnt been done) and talking to my friend about climbing it cause it looked like a cool feature... i love that kind of climbing and i commend you on the adventure climbs you do...
it seems like the internet way would be to continue the negativity... i cant stant that stuff, so here... im willing to strike all the mean things you said about me from the record if you relax little and be willing to shake my hand when you see me at the crag... this is supposed to be a supportive climbing community and i do my best to live that way... Apr 8, 2010
M Sprague
New England
M Sprague   New England  
All's cool. Misunderstandings happen. Apr 9, 2010
Ryan Barber
Rumney, NH
Ryan Barber   Rumney, NH
Who stole the ladder? It completely disappeared over the winter... Mar 24, 2012

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