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Routes in Darth Vader

Caged, The S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Darth Vader T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Jedi Mind Tricks S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Oby-won Ryobi S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Prawn, The S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Sand People, The S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Spaceballs: The Rock Climb T 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Storm Troopers S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Yoda S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
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Description

At the cross-roads of many of Rumney's upper crags, the compact upper and lower walls of Darth Vader offer routes ranging from 5.4 to 5.12. This crag is a popular destination for intermediate climbers and a heavily traveled warm up area.

The main attraction to this crag are arguably THE two best 5.9s at Rumney: Yoda (5.9) and Obi-Won-Ryobi (5.9+). These side-by-side climbs at "Lower 'Vader" offer stellar moves and are literally right off of the trail en route to Waimea and the other upper crags. If there is not a line for these climbs, it is hard to find excuse not to run up them! Lower Vader is also home the crag's only 5.12s, which are seldom done and often overlooked.

Upper Vader is a good choice for intermediates and groups, as there is a 5.4, 5.6, 5.7, and 5.8 next to each other on the far right end of the wall. The left end of Upper Vader offers two short and pumpy climbs: Three Easy Pieces (5.11a) and Easter Squal (5.10d).

this video has most of the routes at Darth Vadar on it.
youtube.com/watch?v=9x5nmid…

Getting There

Park in the far lot, walk down the road, start hiking at the woods at utility pole #37. Follow engraved wooden signs for "Waimea" or "Darth Vader." Hike up the progressively steepening trail while passing a few large boulders on the left side of the trail. The first crag you get to will be Lower Vader. To get to Upper Vader, walk to climber's right of Lower Vader and take a left up a steep trail. Take the next Left possible, which may or may not be obscured by a fallen tree.

9 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Darth Vader

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 124
The Sand People
Sport
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 353
Yoda
Sport
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 49
Darth Vader
Trad
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
 313
Oby-won Ryobi
Sport
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
 44
Jedi Mind Tricks
Sport
5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
 12
Storm Troopers
Sport
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
The Sand People
 124
5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Sport
Yoda
 353
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Sport
Darth Vader
 49
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad
Oby-won Ryobi
 313
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a Sport
Jedi Mind Tricks
 44
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b Sport
Storm Troopers
 12
5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b Sport
More Classic Climbs in Darth Vader »

Sun & Shade

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Photos

lee hansche
goffstown, nh
lee hansche   goffstown, nh  
i did a fun link up today starting on Yoda and finishing on Darth Vader... I thought it took the best parts of the two routes and was more sustained... Jul 2, 2008
M Sprague
New England
M Sprague   New England  
The approach directions should really be changed to going up the Short Cut trail, rather than walking up the road. It is faster and eliminates friction with local drivers May 22, 2010
Tyler Newcomb
Burlington
Tyler Newcomb   Burlington
As of probably October, and probably still there is a lot of large loose rpck out to the left, so use the right side to hike to the back. Dec 26, 2012
M Sprague
New England
M Sprague   New England  
Are you reffering to the trail, Tyler? Dec 26, 2012
Tyler Newcomb
Burlington
Tyler Newcomb   Burlington
Actually, I meant a little off trail where ther is also slippery moss, but yes right neer there Jan 25, 2013
lee hansche
goffstown, nh
lee hansche   goffstown, nh  
here is a video showing ascents of, Darth Vadar 5.9, Jedi Mind Tricks 5.12b, The Caged 5.12d, Storm Troopers 5.12c and the link up Space Balls 5.12b/c... enjoy
youtube.com/watch?v=9x5nmid… Apr 9, 2013
stephane Desbiens
sherbrooke
stephane Desbiens   sherbrooke
Is the crag stay dry on rain? May 19, 2016
Jeffrey LeCours
New Hampshire
Jeffrey LeCours   New Hampshire  
There isn't a route that is entirely dry in the rain here. The cave gives great cover but the latter part of the caves routes are all subject to the elements. The cliff gets sun and dries out fast but seeping can occur (e.g., lower half of Yoda). May 20, 2016

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