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Spaceballs: The Rock Climb
5.12b/c YDS 7b+ French 27 Ewbanks IX- UIAA 27 ZA E6 6b British
Avg: 2 from 1
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Routes in Darth Vader
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Caged, The S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b |
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Darth Vader T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Jedi Mind Tricks S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Oby-won Ryobi S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Prawn, The S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Sand People, The S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Spaceballs: The Rock Climb T 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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Storm Troopers S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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Yoda S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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| Type: | Trad, 70 ft (21 m) |
| FA: | Lee Hansche 3/5/13 |
| Page Views: | 1,183 total · 9/month |
| Shared By: | Lee Hansche on Mar 5, 2013 |
| Admins: | Jay Knower, M Sprague, Lee Hansche, Jeffrey LeCours, Jonathan S, Robert Hall |
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Description
Link-ups are often silly in my mind. This one is no exception. For some reason once I had thought of it I had to do it. I couldn't get it out of my head. After all I don't climb to be serious and cool, I climb cause it's fun. This route is quite fun.
Basically it is a 4 route link up from the lowest part of the cliff to the summit climbing mostly previously climbed rock but adding about 20 feet of new stuff. Climb the super fun opening moves of Storm Troopers, then enjoy some new rock heading left to gain the lay down rest on The Caged. After your nap get in to the crux sequence by pulling a really fun interesting couple of moves in to the top of Jedi Mind Tricks. I continued over to the top of Obi-wan and fought crazy rope drag to the top. You don't have to if you don't want to that was just my vision for a long route on a short cliff. If you prefer you can just clip the Jedi chains.
Space Balls starts at 5:55
youtube.com/watch?v=9x5nmid…
The hardest part was really just figuring out a way to climb it safely without placing any bolts. I ended up going with preplacing 3 funky pieces in soft rock and equalizing them (this was for the link between The Caged and Jedi).
Basically it is a 4 route link up from the lowest part of the cliff to the summit climbing mostly previously climbed rock but adding about 20 feet of new stuff. Climb the super fun opening moves of Storm Troopers, then enjoy some new rock heading left to gain the lay down rest on The Caged. After your nap get in to the crux sequence by pulling a really fun interesting couple of moves in to the top of Jedi Mind Tricks. I continued over to the top of Obi-wan and fought crazy rope drag to the top. You don't have to if you don't want to that was just my vision for a long route on a short cliff. If you prefer you can just clip the Jedi chains.
Space Balls starts at 5:55
youtube.com/watch?v=9x5nmid…
The hardest part was really just figuring out a way to climb it safely without placing any bolts. I ended up going with preplacing 3 funky pieces in soft rock and equalizing them (this was for the link between The Caged and Jedi).
Location
Start on the steep beginning of Storm Troopers, climb past the 1st bolt and continue over to The Caged, take the rest there and climb left to Jedi Mind Tricks, finish there or continue as i did to the top of Obi-wan.
Protection
A mix of existing bolts and trad placements... I was set on using trad gear to do the links but due to soft rock and tricky placements i Preplaced the gear between The Caged and Jedi.
the break down: clip bolt 1 on Troopers, #2 camalot between Troopers and Caged, Bolt 2 on Caged, A blue tcu/yellow C3/Purple Camalot equalized between Caged and Jedi, Bolts 2 and 3 on Jedi, Clip the chains or place a finger sized cam out left and clip the last 3 bolts of Obi-won.
the break down: clip bolt 1 on Troopers, #2 camalot between Troopers and Caged, Bolt 2 on Caged, A blue tcu/yellow C3/Purple Camalot equalized between Caged and Jedi, Bolts 2 and 3 on Jedi, Clip the chains or place a finger sized cam out left and clip the last 3 bolts of Obi-won.
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