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Routes in Darth Vader

Caged, The S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Darth Vader T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Jedi Mind Tricks S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Oby-won Ryobi S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Prawn, The S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Sand People, The S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Spaceballs: The Rock Climb T 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Storm Troopers S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Yoda S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Type: Sport
FA: Ward Smith 3/98
Page Views: 3,440 total, 26/month
Shared By: lee hansche on Jan 11, 2007
Admins: Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey.LeCours, Robert Hall

You & This Route


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Description

This route never gets the credit it deserves...
It is short and doesn't look inviting but the moves are fun and it has a great flow...

Start on the left and hand traverse right to a jug...Make the second clip and get ready for some awesome moves...I won't give play by play beta but you head up and right using crimps and big slopers... Careful making the 3rd clip its a bad place to hit the ground...A heel toe cam helps on this clip...As you top out a few kneebars are possible...clip the quick clips and run another lap on it ...You will want to....

Location

Right in the middle of the cliff...Just right of Oby-won..

Protection

3 bolts to a quickclip and a fixed biner...
A bit of a different angle on Jedi Mind Tricks, especially at the beginning...
Sebi is climbing with cheering by Matt (rated PG)
youtube.com/watch?v=vCpjPXO… Oct 10, 2016
Zach Swanson
Newton, MA
Zach Swanson   Newton, MA
The knee-bar absolutely trivializes the third clip, and sets you up really well to do the finishing moves. (It's the same spot as in the video where he does a heel cam) Oct 8, 2016
lee hansche
goffstown, nh
 
lee hansche   goffstown, nh  
 
Yup! I climbed it the other day on nice shiny new glue ins courtesy of Chris Smith! Thanks Chris!

And being a kneebar addict I will have to look for it! Feb 6, 2016
Jeffrey.LeCours
New Hampshire
 
Jeffrey.LeCours   New Hampshire  
 
The RCA fixed the bolts on this recently. :) Feb 6, 2016
Has Anyone noticed you can get a pretty bomber knee-bar to make the 3rd clip? It's not resting position potential but it feels a lot more stable than a heel-toe cam and makes me feel comfortable making the third clip. Other than that this a fantastic climb with great body position and cool moves despite it being short, totally in my style and I hope to send it once the season starts back up.
Any updates on the spinning bolts? When I climbed it in July of 2015 I didn't notice any spinning bolts Feb 5, 2016
Eric8
Maynard, MA
 
Eric8   Maynard, MA
 
Curious if anyone has a way of doing this with out both feet coming off at the lip? Jun 6, 2011
lee hansche
goffstown, nh
 
lee hansche   goffstown, nh  
 
just posted a vid of my good friend jeff to the description, check him out! Jun 29, 2010
Rajiv Ayyangar
Portland, ME
 
Rajiv Ayyangar   Portland, ME
 
Sent this yesterday after a long battle... I'd tried it a year ago, when I hadn't done any 12's before. This was my 4th day on over the past year, and it went down 2nd go of the day.

I thought the route was really awkward at first, and I never worked the top enough to find any good beta (just grovelled around on redpoint). But the moves to the lip (the big jug-pinch) I got dialed, and I think it flows pretty well.

I stick-clipped the second bolt, which makes the fall better, but impedes the deadpoint to the massive first jug a bit. For the third bolt I have a RH on the top-right corner of the big block, and a left heel wedged over the massive jug - makes clipping super-casual (got the beta from a super-strong friend who flashed it). The fall from above the third bolt is safe.

In conclusion, I think with the right beta, it flows well, is powerful, has good-quality rock and great holds, and overall is a really good route. With bad beta it is super-awkward, off-balance, and weird.

Didn't see that kneebar at the end, Lee - perhaps you can message me?

I've heard there's kneebar beta for the middle - to clip the second bolt, but I just used a double heel-toe cam to rest off the big jug. Jun 22, 2010
Jeffrey.LeCours
New Hampshire
 
Jeffrey.LeCours   New Hampshire  
 
Apparently the youtube poster removed the video but uploaded a new, better rendition. He ditched the slow-mo from the original video.

youtube.com/v/I9T-8Pgf4C0&hd=1

Strong, fun moves that make sense when you do them. I have always looked up at this route while roping up for its easier neighbors. It's amazing how it all just works. :) May 31, 2010
twellman
Cambridge
 
twellman   Cambridge
 
So many times have I walked by this and said to myself, some day......

Well some day was today, and it should have been sooner! If you like bouldery, tricky strenuous climbing, this is an awesome climb. And definitely safely bolted. Easy stick clip on first (and second if you want it, though you clip this from a jug). Third clip is tricky but with a good belayer you should be fine.

Clipping the anchors would give some bad rope drag, so I jumped and then lowered off the biner on the third bolt. Feb 20, 2010
James Otey
NH
  5.12b
James Otey   NH
  5.12b
Its intended to be a beta video- slow motion gives you time to analyze the movements, holds, and body positions more accurately. Nov 19, 2009
Lanky
Tired
Lanky   Tired
WTF is with the slo-mo? Nov 19, 2009
lee hansche
goffstown, nh
 
lee hansche   goffstown, nh  
 
youtube.com/watch?v=JluurZe…

a little beta footage for those who want it... i do things a little different than this chap but it give you ideas... Nov 19, 2009
lee hansche
goffstown, nh
 
lee hansche   goffstown, nh  
 
I stick clip the first 2 bolts cause the first one is right there and the second is still not too high... anyway the third bolt could be bad if you blew it so i do a toe hook or heel toe camish move with my left foot and get my right hand on the big shitty sloper up and right.... at that point you are locked in to make the clip and you just have a few more hard moves to the top... a nice kneebar at the end if you want it...

i really like the moves on this route... Jan 4, 2008
Maurice Liddy
Plymouth, NH
Maurice Liddy   Plymouth, NH
Rock jerky? Its not too bad at all. If i remember correctly you can reach the first clip from the boulder. An attentive belayer or a stick clipped second bolt will sort that out, but the clipping stance for the second bolt was good too. Ive worked the route a lot and grew to love it (eventually) I never sent, but I thought it was an awesome little route, not sketchy fall potential and worth trying. Jan 4, 2008
Mike Thompson
Manchester NH
 
Mike Thompson   Manchester NH
 
i really wanted to try this route but the fall looked a little too nasty....any beta on how to keep from being rock jerky? Jan 3, 2008
lee hansche
goffstown, nh
 
lee hansche   goffstown, nh  
 
nice seth im glad you enjoyed it... Aug 19, 2007
seth hamel  
 
I've got to agree with Lee on this one. I thought the route was pretty cool even due to it's short length. The moves do flow pretty well, and it just seems to put your body where it should be. The route offers some variety in the style of moves and holds. Recomended. Aug 19, 2007
Jay Knower
Campton, NH
 
Jay Knower   Campton, NH  
 
I just climbed this route today and I think that it does get the credit it deserves. I'm not so sure if I'll get on it again. Plus, you have a number of classic routes of the same grade just a bit up the hill...

(In the interest of full disclosure, I did get slapped around a bit on this.) May 2, 2007