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Routes in Darth Vader

Caged, The S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Darth Vader T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Jedi Mind Tricks S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Oby-won Ryobi S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Prawn, The S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Sand People, The S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Spaceballs: The Rock Climb T 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Storm Troopers S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Yoda S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Type: Trad
FA: Jay Lena 6/88
Page Views: 3,367 total, 25/month
Shared By: lee hansche on Feb 8, 2007
Admins: Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey.LeCours, Robert Hall

You & This Route


46 Opinions

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Description

A seldom climbed but fun route found a few feet left of Yoda. being trad protected and in the middle of the hotbed of sport climbing, it's no wonder why it sees less traffic. However, there are anchors at the top that you could easily set up a toprope on after leading Yoda.

Starting 10 feet left of Yoda in a corner.... Climb either straight up with stemming or out right and back to meet the nice fingers and hands crack. A little loose rock may be encountered, but over all, the route is quality, having the same over all feel as its popular neighbors without the bolts.

Another reason to bring a small rack to Rumney on a crowded day.

Darth Vadar is shown at 1:05

Location

Just left of Yoda (5.9) on the left end of Darth Vader Crag....

Protection

trad gear to anchor....
lee hansche
goffstown, nh
 
lee hansche   goffstown, nh  
 
Just meant two routes side by side that take good gear... ironic may not be the right word "interesting" may be better. Anyone who's been in the sport a few years knows you don't bolt another persons trad route without permission. What to do about it is always the tricky part. in this case everyone loses but it's the rock I care about and it was the party who suffered the biggest loss, ugly. Oct 26, 2016
"Also an ironic place for a bolt war seeing as Yoda a few feet to the right protects perfectly on gear and everyone seems to love those bolts. "

i don't think "ironic" is the right word….

there is a major difference between the two routes: Yoda was done as a first ascent with bolts. the FA'er got to make the decision about the bolts because he was the "first" ascentionist…

in the case of Darth Vader, the bolts were added much later (25+years later) after many, many ascents...

examined in that light, hopefully you'll see it's two completely different situations.

personally, i don't care if there is a bolt on this route or not.

i would not have added a bolt to the start of this route. it's not a "5 star- must do" route and it can be easily tr'ed after doing Yoda. that said, i also wouldn't have chopped the bolt either...

obviously, both persons involved felt strongly enough to take the actions they did. what isn't clear is if their actions were as well thought out as they should have been...

ed e Oct 25, 2016
lee hansche
goffstown, nh
 
lee hansche   goffstown, nh  
 
A really nice route for sure. Also an ironic place for a bolt war seeing as Yoda a few feet to the right protects perfectly on gear and everyone seems to love those bolts.

Looks like you can still sling the bashed bolt if you wanted to. I never really clipped it, nor do I yank on the detached block. Climb gently, everybody keeps tearing perfectly good holds off the wall haha. Oct 24, 2016
I have climbed this route many times, both with and without the bolt. It is a nice option when the sport routes are busy. I think it is better with the bolt. I think the theory behind the bolt is to keep the leader under control if the block comes out. The pro is held in place by that block. Rumney has a history of good gear placements falling off and ending up at the base of the climb. Think Romancing the Stone. or Technical Second. In this case if the choss that you have to yard on to get into the v groove blows, so does the gear. It would leave the leader at best landing in the sharp boulders, and at worst landing on the belayer.

Some genius has bashed the heck out of the start of the climb. If you don't like it, don't clip it, but don't make a mess of things. The bolt isn't hurting you. Oct 23, 2016
Climbed it yesterday - scary bolt is back, definitely ground fall potential :)

Added .75 Camalot right above it and that felt much better. Fun climb! Dec 14, 2015
lee hansche
goffstown, nh
 
lee hansche   goffstown, nh  
 
i changed it... forgot it was in there :) glad to hear this climb is getting some use! Jul 22, 2014
Tom Gnyra    
 
good climbing with huge jugs throughout. a 0.5 C4 or a good nut protects the removed bolt portion. maybe removing the 1 bolt beta from the page would be good since there is none anymore. Jul 22, 2014
Chris Duca
Havertown, PA
  5.9
Chris Duca   Havertown, PA
  5.9
Climbed this for the first time today. Super fun movement through the flaring offwidth, and some engaging climbing above. too bad it's so short. May 6, 2012
bradley white
Bend
 
bradley white   Bend
 
Huge loose rock was taken out of the lowest section during the climb on a cold day in early December, 1987 with Lee the Flea. It was quite an excavation to get to 'Darth Vader' crack. May the force be with you. Jul 19, 2010
E thatcher
Plymouth/ North Conway (NH)
E thatcher   Plymouth/ North Conway (NH)
Sounds good....thanks for the info Mar 25, 2009
lee hansche
goffstown, nh
 
lee hansche   goffstown, nh  
 
yeah the bolt was silly... you could easily ground out with that thing clipped so it was not needed... as matt said the gear is fine... Mar 21, 2009
matthewWallace
Sandwich, NH
  5.9
matthewWallace   Sandwich, NH
  5.9
yes the bolt was removed because where the bolt was there is bomber trad placements merely inches above it, so the bolt didnt make much sense Mar 21, 2009
E thatcher
Plymouth/ North Conway (NH)
E thatcher   Plymouth/ North Conway (NH)
The low bolt is now gone, im just hoping some one didn't fall on it. The route can still be climbed, and reasonably protected by going right first and sneaking in a piece or two. As Lee says in the description, a TR can also easily be set up with a small traverse from the top of Yoda. Bring gear to extend the anchor over the lip as it is very abrasive rock up there Mar 20, 2009