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Routes in Darth Vader

Caged, The S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Darth Vader T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Jedi Mind Tricks S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Oby-won Ryobi S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Prawn, The S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Sand People, The S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Spaceballs: The Rock Climb T 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Storm Troopers S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Yoda S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Type: Sport
FA: Alan Cattabraga
Page Views: 2,752 total, 21/month
Shared By: lee hansche on Feb 8, 2007 with updates
Admins: Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey.LeCours, Robert Hall

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Description

This is a really interesting and fun climb around the left corner of the Darth Vader Crag. Originally a spicy trad climb now it's been retro-bolted. Fully safe now and no gear needed.

Start by the birch tree on the ledge. Make a committing move right and gain a huge flake. move back left and up connecting jugs with some balance moves. eventually climb a perfect hand crack to the chains.

Location

Starts at a birch tree just up and around the corner on the left end of the crag....

Protection

5 bolts and a chain anchor with quick clips.
Daniel Kaye
Boston, ma
 
Daniel Kaye   Boston, ma
 
Thank you Lee.
Got to get back on it a few weekends ago with some friends, fun stuff:


youtube.com/watch?v=E7mkVix… Oct 2, 2016
lee hansche
goffstown, nh
 
lee hansche   goffstown, nh  
 
Confirmed and the description has been updated May 9, 2016
Daniel Kaye
Boston, ma
 
Daniel Kaye   Boston, ma
 
Recently walked by this one... looks like it has either been re-bolted, or a bolt has been added, so that getting to the third clip is no longer slightly sketch. Can anyone confirm? May 7, 2016
Nick Grant
Natick, MA & Tamworth, NH
  5.8+
Nick Grant   Natick, MA & Tamworth, NH
  5.8+
Every time I've walked by this route, I've thought, "That thing looks creepy," and others must think so too because there's usually a crowd on Yoda and Obi-won, and nobody on this one. I finally got on it, and the first move IS scary (not "Flying Hawaiian" scary, but scary nonetheless), but, after that, no worries. Oct 26, 2014
S. Neoh
  5.9
S. Neoh  
  5.9
Glad it all worked out for you, M. Apr 7, 2013
Matt Levine
Concord, NH
 
Matt Levine   Concord, NH
 
Update on my previous comments...I finally climbed it, you certainly woudn't wanna fall there but the climbing was so moderate that before i knew it the bolt was right in front of me. it wasn't really a problem. fun little climb for sure Apr 6, 2013
lee hansche
goffstown, nh
 
lee hansche   goffstown, nh  
 
the rock seems fine but im not gonna go adding bolts to another persons route... i liked it better as a trad route anyway... Apr 1, 2013
lee hansche
goffstown, nh
 
lee hansche   goffstown, nh  
 
There was a hole drilled in that run out but no bolt was placed... we should just toss one more in... Mar 31, 2013
Matt Levine
Concord, NH
 
Matt Levine   Concord, NH
 
Yeah, I know it's easy climbing but ya never know, we all make mistakes. I'd just hate to make that mistake. My post is by no means meant to keep people off the route. I plan on jumping on it myself pretty soon. Just an observation.. Mar 31, 2013
S. Neoh
  5.9
S. Neoh  
  5.9
Sure it is a big runout but it is 5.5 or 5.6 between the 2nd and third bolt. IMO, the crux is the start. If a leader can get through that cleanly, the runout should be no problem as long as he/she can keep it together on easy ground. Mar 31, 2013
Matt Levine
Concord, NH
 
Matt Levine   Concord, NH
 
Looked at this route on the hike up to Jimmy yesterday and was really surprised at the run out between the second and third bolts. I remember reading about it here on MP but didn't imagine it to be quite as big as it actually is. Sure it looks like easy climbing with a nice ledge and everything but it looks like a disaster waiting to happen for a beginning to intermediate leader who might be looking for another moderate climb while waiting on the line of people down below at Yoda or Obi-Won. It's not exactly the cleanest landing down below. Mar 31, 2013
Matt Wilson
Vermont, USA
 
Matt Wilson   Vermont, USA
 
Climbed this route on June 4, 2011. Not sure if the third bolt was missing or not (my first time on this route). It didn't seem overly run out. I remember 4 bolts and chains for anchors. Some people have mentioned they think there are lower offs at the top, there are not (I bumped my back in to a nice pointy rock repelling down about 2 feet off the ground).

All in all, a fun route. The difficulty is all in your head, though. Everything under the second bolt is very exposed and can give the shakes to a climber who doesn't trust their feet or their balance. The first bolt can be clipped by hand from the starting ledge unless you are particularly short (the bolt is maybe 7 feet up). Jun 6, 2011
S. Neoh
  5.9
S. Neoh  
  5.9
The start is especially tricky and technical for the grade, but safe.
Jugs and more jugs in the runout section between 2nd and 3rd bolt.
Start felt 5.9-ish to me. Jul 25, 2010
M Sprague
New England
M Sprague   New England  
I did this route last weekend and I thought the bolts were fine. You are on jugs while doing the "run out". If you can manage the start, I don't see how you could fall unless struck by a tree. I heard second hand that Tim was dealing with rock quality issues. That is why he put the bolts where he did Apr 6, 2010
lee hansche
goffstown, nh
 
lee hansche   goffstown, nh  
 
maybe something off to the left but that would defeat the purpose of retro-bolting a route right haha... the route was fine and fun the way it was... Mar 18, 2010
Jake D.
Northeast
Jake D.   Northeast
Lee is there any gear between 2nd and 3rd bolt to fill in that gap? ie 1-2 pieces to bring in case it doesnt get a new bolt? Mar 17, 2010
lee hansche
goffstown, nh
 
lee hansche   goffstown, nh  
 
Climbed the bolted version of this today... It seemed no safer on bolts than on gear... The run out between the 2nd and 3rd bolts seemed like a groundfall waiting to happen... i hope someone can add a bolt between those two for the sake of the moderate climber... Mar 16, 2010
lee hansche
goffstown, nh
 
lee hansche   goffstown, nh  
 
changed it... Jul 28, 2009
Tim Waystrong
New Hampshire
 
Tim Waystrong   New Hampshire
 
Hey Lee you should change it to Trad/Sport Jul 28, 2009
E thatcher
Plymouth/ North Conway (NH)
E thatcher   Plymouth/ North Conway (NH)
Tim Kemple Sr. bolted it about 2 or 3 weeks ago. Jun 17, 2009
Ben C
Portland, OR
 
Ben C   Portland, OR
 
just noticed this route, (because of bolts) thought it remained a spicy route (the third bolt is well above the second) i thought it was excellent maybe one day i'll do it on gear! Jun 17, 2009
lee hansche
goffstown, nh
 
lee hansche   goffstown, nh  
 
really... seriously... well i hope people use it cause its a great route but it didnt need bolts... it needed a slightly steady nerve... Jun 9, 2009
Eric  
It's now bolted. Cold shuts at the top, I think. Jun 9, 2009
matthewWallace
Sandwich, NH
  5.8+ PG13
matthewWallace   Sandwich, NH
  5.8+ PG13
That is what I suspected... Dec 28, 2008
lee hansche
goffstown, nh
 
lee hansche   goffstown, nh  
 
i forget but i think you use the anchor for Darth Vadar... Dec 28, 2008
matthewWallace
Sandwich, NH
  5.8+ PG13
matthewWallace   Sandwich, NH
  5.8+ PG13
Does this route have quick clips or anything at the top? Dec 28, 2008