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Routes in Darth Vader

Caged, The S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Darth Vader T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Jedi Mind Tricks S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Oby-won Ryobi S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Prawn, The S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Sand People, The S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Spaceballs: The Rock Climb T 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Storm Troopers S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Yoda S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Type: Sport
FA: Ed Esmond 3/99
Page Views: 7,762 total, 58/month
Shared By: lee hansche on Jan 11, 2007
Admins: Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey.LeCours, Robert Hall

You & This Route


287 Opinions

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Description

This is a great example of one of the best things about Rumney climbing....Just cause it's steep doesn't mean it's wicked hard... There are so many big holds on the super steep start that you are bound to skip a few killer jugs on your way to the crux...

Most people can clip the first bolt standing on a jutting rock...Grab the highest jug you can reach and start the fun...Move up and right following chalked up jugs with feet out left...When you run out of jugs swing your feet out right and find a good right foot way right (you can even cam your toe for better control on the next move (crux).... This move is a bit easier if you are tall, but anyone can do it...A big reach or throw to a good hold helps you rock over to the right and get a good rest.... A few techy moves get you on to the slab and on your way to the crack finish (similar to but more moderate than the finish to Yoda).

Location

Just right of Yoda start in a little alcove....

Protection

6 bolts to quick clips (don't TR from quick clips use draws).
S. Neoh
  5.9+
S. Neoh  
  5.9+
Yeah, gave myself a little scare when I grabbed one of the loose holds (still there!) this past weekend. Luckily I was at a decent stance and in balance so it was easy to move on to something else. Fun route, easier but much longer than Ward's new "9+" at NWP :) Aug 4, 2017
Zach Swanson
Newton, MA
Zach Swanson   Newton, MA
One of the stones is (somewhat) marked with a chalk 'X' - but it's pretty easy to grab it while coming out of the roof. We checked and wiggling side-to-side quite a bit (definitely enough to scare the pants off someone who grabs it unaware) is all it seems to do. Jul 27, 2014
Ladd

  5.9+
Ladd    
  5.9+
Through the crux there are at least two loose stones up there, one is directly where I always want to put my left hand and the other is above that left of the best hold up there. I don't think they'd pop out, as I think many have tried over the years to do just that. I just think you might give yourself a good scare. Aug 23, 2007