Type: Sport
FA: Chris Smith 2/96
Page Views: 13,314 total · 62/month
Shared By: Lee Hansche on Jan 11, 2007
Admins: Jay Knower, M Sprague, Lee Hansche, Jeffrey LeCours, Jonathan S, Robert Hall

You & This Route

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Description Suggest change

Yoda is what I look for in a 5.9 sport climb, and is one of my favorite warm-ups... Also a very popular first 5.9 lead....
For a relatively short climb, you will get a great variety of movements and techniques out of it....
A steep, strong start leads to a great foot hold out right where you rest a minute and figure out this cruxy section (jamming and fingerlocking will help) as you get over the bulge, but most people just keep pulling till the angle eases up a bit....
A short slab leads to a crack finish up awesome super grippy rock....

There is often a line for this route...though it's worth the wait, you are at Rumney, there are tons of killer 5.9s out there... Climb a few and come back on the way out when the line is gone and the sunset light makes the view breathtaking....

Location Suggest change

Left-most sport route at the crag.... (except for the one around the corner)

Protection Suggest change

6 bolts to quick clips...don't TR off the quickies, use some draws so the clips last longer....