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Routes in Darth Vader

Caged, The S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Darth Vader T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Jedi Mind Tricks S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Oby-won Ryobi S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Prawn, The S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Sand People, The S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Spaceballs: The Rock Climb T 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Storm Troopers S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Yoda S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Type: Sport
FA: Chris Smith 2/96
Page Views: 8,509 total, 64/month
Shared By: lee hansche on Jan 11, 2007
Admins: Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey.LeCours, Robert Hall

You & This Route


331 Opinions

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Description

Yoda is what I look for in a 5.9 sport climb, and is one of my favorite warm-ups... Also a very popular first 5.9 lead....
For a relatively short climb, you will get a great variety of movements and techniques out of it....
A steep, strong start leads to a great foot hold out right where you rest a minute and figure out this cruxy section (jamming and fingerlocking will help) as you get over the bulge, but most people just keep pulling till the angle eases up a bit....
A short slab leads to a crack finish up awesome super grippy rock....

There is often a line for this route...though it's worth the wait, you are at Rumney, there are tons of killer 5.9s out there... Climb a few and come back on the way out when the line is gone and the sunset light makes the view breathtaking....

Location

Left-most sport route at the crag....

Protection

6 bolts to quick clips...don't TR off the quickies, use some draws so the clips last longer....
matthewWallace
Sandwich, NH
  5.9
matthewWallace   Sandwich, NH
  5.9
I do the kneebar everytime I climb the route. Its right after the crux of the route and affords a nice relaxing no hands rest! Plus kneebars are just simply fun :) Jan 19, 2015
Ryan Malloy
Worcester, MA
  5.9
Ryan Malloy   Worcester, MA
  5.9
Got on this for the first time today, and found a pretty solid kneebar at around the second or third bolt, just as the climb transitions from overhanging to slab.

Surprised to see this hasn't been mentioned in any other comments. Maybe I have weird legs? Jan 18, 2015
Nick Grant
Natick, MA & Tamworth, NH
 
Nick Grant   Natick, MA & Tamworth, NH
 
The top bit on the "low angle slab" (as the guidebook describes) is not low-angle unless you've just come from doing routes on Waimea. The "slab" is just off vertical, and (I agree with Jay) it's the diciest part of the climb. The whole route is great, though. Oct 26, 2014
losbill  
Best enjoyed while leading with two people shouting, very earnestly, conflicting beta to you. Especially when one clmbs 11+ with an ape index off the charts and incredible grip strength and the other is your favorite partner, who I love dearly, who is somewhat less than 5 foot tall and weighs all of 90 lbs, and who was belaying me and wasn't tied down, and climbs 5.9+ on her best day!!! Visions of impacting the sharp boulders just beneath me danced in my head. All ended well! Kind of ignored both sets of beta, sorry Jake and Amy, and got the onsight. Oct 22, 2012
J Meagher
  5.9
J Meagher  
  5.9
Great route with an overhanging juggy start and nice technique moves to the top. I haven't led this yet because it's super easy to toprope. Just hike up to upper darth vadar and keep walking left along the wall till you see this smooth rock ledge with a few trees on it. The trees are pretty solid (especially if you use three) and the anchor is easy and quick to build. Just remember to anchor yourself as you're setting up the toprope: the drop-off is very steep! Oct 22, 2012
lee hansche
goffstown, nh
 
lee hansche   goffstown, nh  
 
I did finally get on this thing on gear today... it was PG the whole way... super fun, great gear, every piece i placed was right near a bolt (classic rumney haha)... keep clipping the bolts if thats your favorite game but if you are looking for a good 5.9 gear lead go for it, the bolts are right there if you spaz out :) Jun 3, 2010
Jake D.
Northeast
Jake D.   Northeast
No way.. the bottom of Darth Vader is super fun.. sharp steep rumney jugs. Re: yoda on gear I think gear would fit above the first boulder problem.. then it might be a bit sketch till you get to the slab.. upper part should protect well. that upper crack is a cuticle shredder Aug 4, 2009
matthewWallace
Sandwich, NH
  5.9
matthewWallace   Sandwich, NH
  5.9
Lee that does sound fun i will have to give it a try sometime because i love the top of darth vader but the bottom leaves a little to be desired... Dec 24, 2008
lee hansche
goffstown, nh
 
lee hansche   goffstown, nh  
 
this thing would go on gear quite well... ill do it sometime and tell you how it goes.... thanks for the idea...

i did once do a link up of this route in to the top crack of Darth Vader (5.9) which is the best way to enjoy the upper crack of that route... Dec 24, 2008
matthewWallace
Sandwich, NH
  5.9
matthewWallace   Sandwich, NH
  5.9
Yes the top could be very easily protected but I think the bottom would take a little more intuition to place safe gear. Dec 23, 2008
Mike Thompson
Manchester NH
 
Mike Thompson   Manchester NH
 
Matthew... i definitely agree! i would love to try that sometime... the top could definitely take cams though! Dec 23, 2008
matthewWallace
Sandwich, NH
  5.9
matthewWallace   Sandwich, NH
  5.9
This is a great climb, one of the best in this grade range and Jay i couldn't agree more looking at the top it seems as if you will cruise it but when you hit it, it seems foreign due to Rumney's bully style but it is a great reminder of what technique is really like...

Also does anybody else think that this route could potentially be done on gear, it would be sketchy and run out at the bottom, but does it seem possible to anyone else? Dec 23, 2008
Jay Knower
Campton, NH
  5.9
Jay Knower   Campton, NH  
  5.9
I just climbed this route the other day and was surprised to find the top part so difficult. I guess after all of the thugish climbing in this area, it just feels foreign to stand on your feet. Jan 13, 2007