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Routes in Darth Vader

Caged, The S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Darth Vader T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Jedi Mind Tricks S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Oby-won Ryobi S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Prawn, The S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Sand People, The S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Spaceballs: The Rock Climb T 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Storm Troopers S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Yoda S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
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Type: Sport, 30 ft
FA: Ward Smith 11/95
Page Views: 1,492 total · 11/month
Shared By: lee hansche on Oct 3, 2007
Admins: Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey LeCours, Jonathan Steitzer, Robert Hall

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14 Opinions

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Description

Off the beaten path but an interesting climb with cool moves. I wouldn't go out of my way for it but if you are in the area and looking for a mid grade 5.10 take a spin on it.

Stick clip the first bolt and step across the gap to get established on the climb. Make very awkward progress up the steep ramp heading up and right. The climbing involves balance and utilizing slopers and awkward holds to the second bolt. It gets a little easier from here. Continue up the ramp to good holds and clip the chains on the left.

Location

This climb is not attached to Lower Vader but that's the closest cliff so it gets lumped in with it.

Hiking up from Darth Vader look off the trail to the left for a large boulder. Follow the rough trail and look for the obvious line.

Protection

3 bolts to rap rings
Jeffrey LeCours
New Hampshire
Jeffrey LeCours   New Hampshire  
Any comments on poison ivy along this approach? or did you not notice any? Mar 17, 2010
lee hansche
goffstown, nh
  5.10c
lee hansche   goffstown, nh  
  5.10c
im pretty aware of such things and i didnt see any... Mar 17, 2010
Mike Thompson
Manchester NH
 
Mike Thompson   Manchester NH
 
bush wacked my way over to this on friday. looks interesting if for no other reason than its obscurity. I will be sure to give it a go next time I'm out Oct 13, 2013
Eli .
GMC3500
 
Eli .   GMC3500
 
Did this climb today, saw no poison ivy, and had a lot of fun. I think there are more routes hidden in this talus field. Jul 26, 2015
Nick Grant
Natick, MA & Tamworth, NH
  5.10c
Nick Grant   Natick, MA & Tamworth, NH
  5.10c
Trail? What trail? Maybe it's all overgrown because it's July. I needed a machete to find the boulder. Once there, I found the climb trickier than I thought it would be. Jul 20, 2016
Ryan Loiselle
Pepperell, MA
  5.10c/d
Ryan Loiselle   Pepperell, MA
  5.10c/d
This climb was a bit tricky to find, but definitely worth the effort. It took me a while to figure out the moves. Crux for me was between the first and second bolt. Interesting cross-over moves in a tricky corner section. Jun 26, 2017
This route is off to the left of the darth vader wall and is a route that is a little bit longer than a boulder problem. There are no bolted anchors at the top of the route, just two rings. But a fun route with a great view. Sep 27, 2018
Eli .
GMC3500
 
Eli .   GMC3500
 
Saying this route doesn't have bolted anchors is a bit misleading. Oct 2, 2018
Nick Grant
Natick, MA & Tamworth, NH
  5.10c
Nick Grant   Natick, MA & Tamworth, NH
  5.10c
I'm with Eli. There are definitely "bolted anchors." But is The Prawn worth finding? Not really . . . Oct 2, 2018
lee hansche
goffstown, nh
  5.10c
lee hansche   goffstown, nh  
  5.10c
For some reason my comment about the "welded cold-shut anchors" I had tried to post right after the no bolted anchors comment went up didn't go through. But it was something along the lines of "you don't see these types of anchors often at Rumney (though Things as They are Now is one example) but they are bolted on and just need to be run through like any ring anchor.

That being said, I think this discussion is the most action The Prawn has seen in quite some time haha.
Ps. I enjoy the climb. "But that's me, I'm a sick puppy"-Will Ferrell. Oct 3, 2018

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