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Routes in Darth Vader

Caged, The S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Darth Vader T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Jedi Mind Tricks S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Oby-won Ryobi S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Prawn, The S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Sand People, The S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Spaceballs: The Rock Climb T 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Storm Troopers S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Yoda S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Type: Sport, 30 ft
FA: Ward Smith 11/95
Page Views: 1,371 total, 11/month
Shared By: lee hansche on Oct 3, 2007
Admins: Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey.LeCours, Robert Hall

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Description

Off the beaten path but an interesting climb with cool moves. I wouldn't go out of my way for it but if you are in the area and looking for a mid grade 5.10 take a spin on it.

Stick clip the first bolt and step across the gap to get established on the climb. Make very awkward progress up the steep ramp heading up and right. The climbing involves balance and utilizing slopers and awkward holds to the second bolt. It gets a little easier from here. Continue up the ramp to good holds and clip the chains on the left.

Location

This climb is not attached to Lower Vader but that's the closest cliff so it gets lumped in with it.

Hiking up from Darth Vader look off the trail to the left for a large boulder. Follow the rough trail and look for the obvious line.

Protection

3 bolts to anchor
Ryan Loiselle
Pepperell, MA
  5.10c/d
Ryan Loiselle   Pepperell, MA
  5.10c/d
This climb was a bit tricky to find, but definitely worth the effort. It took me a while to figure out the moves. Crux for me was between the first and second bolt. Interesting cross-over moves in a tricky corner section. Jun 26, 2017
Nick Grant
Natick, MA & Tamworth, NH
  5.10c
Nick Grant   Natick, MA & Tamworth, NH
  5.10c
Trail? What trail? Maybe it's all overgrown because it's July. I needed a machete to find the boulder. Once there, I found the climb trickier than I thought it would be. Jul 20, 2016
Eli
Lives in a truck
 
Eli   Lives in a truck
 
Did this climb today, saw no poison ivy, and had a lot of fun. I think there are more routes hidden in this talus field. Jul 26, 2015
Mike Thompson
Manchester NH
 
Mike Thompson   Manchester NH
 
bush wacked my way over to this on friday. looks interesting if for no other reason than its obscurity. I will be sure to give it a go next time I'm out Oct 13, 2013
lee hansche
goffstown, nh
 
lee hansche   goffstown, nh  
 
im pretty aware of such things and i didnt see any... Mar 17, 2010
Jeffrey.LeCours
New Hampshire
Jeffrey.LeCours   New Hampshire  
Any comments on poison ivy along this approach? or did you not notice any? Mar 17, 2010