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Routes in Darth Vader

Caged, The S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Darth Vader T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Jedi Mind Tricks S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Oby-won Ryobi S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Prawn, The S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Sand People, The S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Spaceballs: The Rock Climb T 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Storm Troopers S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Yoda S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Type: Sport
FA: Scott Stevenson 1992
Page Views: 1,931 total, 15/month
Shared By: lee hansche on Jan 11, 2007
Admins: Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey.LeCours, Robert Hall

You & This Route


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Description

A very steep route with one really hard move....
Follow the steep line of good holds out toward the roof...there are many ways of doing the crux section. but they are all hard...I exit right matching on a bad crimpy rail moving to a good pinch.... Swing your feet right to slopey feet...A few moderate moves lead to a single quick shut....

I hear rumor of trick beta, please comment if you have any to add....

Location

The obvious roof out the middle/right side of the crag....

Protection

5 bolts to 1 quick shut (I think the other one went missing)... Cleaning this rt is a pain.... At present, there is a fixed biner on the last bolt, most people clean the rt. from this point to avoid the nast edge your rope runs over if you are clipped to the top....
lee hansche
goffstown, nh
 
lee hansche   goffstown, nh  
 
It does seem to be one of the worst anchor situations on the hill. Might be that its a lower priority because many folks don't use the anchor. I don't like the rope running over that edge so I tag the anchor and lower/clean it off of the last 2 bolts below the roof which typically have leaver biners on them.
Also could be that there is so much to do they just haven't gotten to it yet. Thanks for the reminder. I'll talk to my people haha. Jun 15, 2017
I've started working this puppy recently. I can't believe the anchor situation is still the same as it was 10 years ago! However, I did notice one single glue in above the single cold shut. There appears to be a hole drilled out to the right of this but nothing there. Is there a reason why the anchor situation is the way it is? Is that hangerless bolt just not safe? Anyone know if it'd be okay to update the hardware up there or talk to someone about getting fixed up? Jun 13, 2017
Morgan Patterson   CT  
the trick beta is fun... Sep 4, 2012
Jay Knower
Campton, NH
Jay Knower   Campton, NH  
You should have just kept walking Jeff... May 8, 2011
lee hansche
goffstown, nh
 
lee hansche   goffstown, nh  
 
jeff, the wand chooses the wizard... May 8, 2011
Jeffrey.LeCours
New Hampshire
Jeffrey.LeCours   New Hampshire  
Why?? ... why don't I just keep walking up the hill. :( May 7, 2011
S. Neoh  
Glad to learn that the cleaning biners we left on this route 2 summers ago are still there for people to use. Jan 10, 2011
Jeffrey.LeCours
New Hampshire
Jeffrey.LeCours   New Hampshire  
Maybe I've been bouldering at the gym too much lately.. but I didn't find the bad rail to be that bad. The anchors are a single, gate-less cold shut (with a loop of rope hanging down from it) and a hanger-less bolt. If you're staring these in the face... you've made it! Cleaning biners were conveniently in place on the last two bolts. Wish someone left my cleaning biner on Jedi Mind Tricks - oh well. Jan 9, 2011
seth hamel  
 
Walked by the caged today and the bail biner is gone. Cleaning this on the anchors is a pain. Aug 29, 2007
seth hamel  
 
The anchors are hideous. Aug 20, 2007
lee hansche
goffstown, nh
 
lee hansche   goffstown, nh  
 
i just cant figure out whether my beta is "trick" or not... it is way easier than what i see most folks trying... Aug 15, 2007
M Sprague
New England
M Sprague   New England  
Yes there is trick beta, but that would kind of ruin the fun of figuring it out, wouldn't it? Aug 15, 2007