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Routes in Darth Vader

Caged, The S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Darth Vader T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Jedi Mind Tricks S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Oby-won Ryobi S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Prawn, The S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Sand People, The S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Spaceballs: The Rock Climb T 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Storm Troopers S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Yoda S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
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Type: Sport
FA: Ward Smith, 11/94
Page Views: 2,241 total · 16/month
Shared By: lee hansche on Jan 11, 2007
Admins: Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey.LeCours, Jonathan Steitzer, Robert Hall

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Description [Suggest Change]

The first time I walked up to this crag and layed eyes on the hueco on this route, I had to touch it...Its is the kind of hold that draws you in won't let you sleep at night... It just happens to be a bit hard to get to... But I eventually touched it and it was worth it...I love that hold....

This is the farthest line to the right at Vadar....
Starting up a bunch of jugs trending right...The good feet run out and so do the good hand holds....
The crux is gaining that beautiful hueco...Careful clipping the crux bolt, you don't want to blow that one (bad landing)...Delicate feet and scrunchy shouldery moves get you there...Save some energy for the last few moves, though not the crux, it's not in the bag till you clip the chains....

Storm Troopers starts at 3:35
youtube.com/watch?v=9x5nmid…

Location [Suggest Change]

Far right bolt line at the crag....

Protection [Suggest Change]

5 bolts to chains...Might want to preplace a draw on the crux bolt....

Photos

I hate this route because I can't do it. Dec 8, 2007
Mike Thompson
Manchester NH
Mike Thompson   Manchester NH
i love this route and i wish i could do it....i tried....and kinda failed....but i still love it Jan 3, 2008
twellman
Cambridge
twellman   Cambridge
Whenever I look at this route, I always have trouble imagining how someone would climb it, because the feet look so non-existent. Hopefully this year I will see someone on it. If anyone happens to have a video of someone on it, I would be very interested! Feb 21, 2010
lee hansche
goffstown, nh
 
lee hansche   goffstown, nh  
 
I repeated this climb today for the first time in over a decade... Armed with new beta I didn't find it as hard in the shoulders but the foot work is still super taxing...
I do have some video of my beta I will put it up as soon as I get a chance... Mar 26, 2013
lee hansche
goffstown, nh
 
lee hansche   goffstown, nh  
 
I would add that I think that storm troopers is as hard if not harder than its neighbor the caged... As a short route with a brief crux boulder grades are easier to consider, I'd have to call it about v6 suggesting perhaps 5.12dish... Mar 26, 2013

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