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Routes in The Parking Lot Wall

100% Columbian S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
A Week With Pete S 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a
Cafe au Lait S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Centerfold T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Chloe's Breakfast Special S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Curly for President S 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Dead Sea Equestrian S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Easily Amused S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Easily Aroused S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Egg McMeadows S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Espresso S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Glory Jean's S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Idiot's Deluxe S 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Juan Valdez S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Mr. Coffee S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Percolator S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Quinn/Callaghan S 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Red Sea Pedestrian S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Rise and Shine S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Rubicon S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Rumor Has It T 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Shealyn's Way S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Shemp Lives S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Squeeze My Lemon S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
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Elevation: 676 ft
GPS: 43.803, -71.83 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 57,720 total · 398/month
Shared By: Chris Duca on Dec 16, 2006
Admins: Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey LeCours, Jonathan Steitzer, Robert Hall
Getting weather forecast...
Access Issue: Note: New route moratorium area Details

Description

If you are looking for beginner sport routes, then look no further. The Parking Lot Wall is a mecca for easy-to-moderately-hard sport routes that remains in the sun for the majority of the day.

Conveniently situated behind the main parking lot, the PLW is host to stellar full-length 5.6s and 5.8s (Glory Jeans, and Chloe's Breakfast Special, for example), as well as short, testy 5.9s (Egg McMeadows). Climbers can also find instant gratification from the steeper, pumpier side of Rumney by climbing the forearm-inflating route Espresso (10d), as well as 100% Columbian (11c), both located on the rightmost side of the cliff.

This crag sees the MOST small/large group traffic and can be extremely crowded on a busy weekend!

Getting There

Park in the main parking lot for Rumney. Look up and you'll see the cliff in plain view. The trailhead is directly behind the information board. A 1-minute jaunt uphill will bring you to the base of Espresso. The majority of the routes are to the left.

24 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at The Parking Lot Wall

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a
 192
A Week With Pete
Sport
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
 344
Glory Jean's
Sport
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
 128
Cafe au Lait
Sport
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
 158
Shealyn's Way
Sport
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
 285
Rise and Shine
Sport
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 138
Chloe's Breakfast Special
Sport
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 93
Squeeze My Lemon
Sport
5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
 170
Curly for President
Sport
5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
 71
Quinn/Callaghan
Sport
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
 214
Egg McMeadows
Sport
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
 63
Red Sea Pedestrian
Sport
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
 110
Juan Valdez
Sport
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
 120
Rubicon
Sport
5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
 108
Idiot's Deluxe
Sport
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
 169
Espresso
Sport
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
A Week With Pete
 192
5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a Sport
Glory Jean's
 344
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b Sport
Cafe au Lait
 128
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b Sport
Shealyn's Way
 158
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Sport
Rise and Shine
 285
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Sport
Chloe's Breakfast Special
 138
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Sport
Squeeze My Lemon
 93
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Sport
Curly for President
 170
5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c Sport
Quinn/Callaghan
 71
5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c Sport
Egg McMeadows
 214
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a Sport
Red Sea Pedestrian
 63
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Sport
Juan Valdez
 110
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Sport
Rubicon
 120
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Sport
Idiot's Deluxe
 108
5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b Sport
Espresso
 169
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b Sport
More Classic Climbs in The Parking Lot Wall »

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Photos

Ladd    
Please toprope off your own gear See what it looks like if you TR off the quick clips May 17, 2007
matthewWallace
Sandwich, NH
matthewWallace   Sandwich, NH
There is a project with a single old bolt and I believe anchors that is between Week With Pete and Espresso. It starts at the back of the roof and up to the anchors. I am not sure if this has ever been sent it doesnt look like it has... Apr 6, 2009
Mike Thompson
Manchester NH
Mike Thompson   Manchester NH
Matt, I have ogled and oogled over that little roof A LOT! I have no doubt in my mind that I could never send it lol but i would love to work it with you some day :) When ever I'm up at Rumney I always touch the holds on the end of the roof :) Apr 6, 2009
matthewWallace
Sandwich, NH
matthewWallace   Sandwich, NH
yeah I dont think i could ever send it but i would love to give it a shot hit me up with an email when you gonna be in the area sometime and we will hit it up. Apr 6, 2009
twellman
Cambridge
twellman   Cambridge
Does anyone know what the deal is with the anchors on top of the tallish section of cliff that is straight up from the bathrooms, very close to the parking lot, about 200 feet left of the Meadows Flow ice climbs? Looks like some pretty dirty chossy rock... maybe they're also for ice climbing? Sep 11, 2012
M Sprague
New England
M Sprague   New England  
They might be anchors that I put in a long time ago. There is actually good climbing up there, but I abandoned it since you had to scramble up a dirty corner to get to the good stuff and I didn't think it was worth cleaning there. We learned there are actually some rare plants in that area that the FS was concerned about, so nobody should clean where the iceclimbs go. They were even contemplating closing it to all climbers, but they were convinced that the ice covering protected it enough. Sep 11, 2012
twellman
Cambridge
twellman   Cambridge
Thanks for the info Mark. Is it the cut-leaf toothwort, the same one they put up the fence near Flesh for? I think it would be helpful for someone with good knowledge of the rare plants in the area to put some of that info (and photos if possible) here on MP. Most people, including myself, wouldn't know the difference between rare plants and weeds. Maybe we could work that out with someone from the forest service. Sep 11, 2012
M Sprague
New England
M Sprague   New England  
I think it was another plant, but I don't remember the name. Ward probably knows. A problem with some of these species is that they are basically invisable part of the season, only above ground parts of the year.
I agree, photos and descriptions here of the rare plants at Rumney would be a good idea. Sep 11, 2012
Eli .
GMC3500
Eli .   GMC3500
What is the story on the red tagged route way way right on parking lot wall. Oct 2, 2017
M Sprague
New England
M Sprague   New England  
Ask Pete Jackson. It might be his. If it is where I am thinking, he asked the ranger and they were ok with it, considering it technically not part of the Parking lot wall. ..no idea if he is still working on or abandoned it. It's kind of a heap. Oct 6, 2017

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