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Routes in The Parking Lot Wall

100% Columbian S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
A Week With Pete S 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a
Cafe au Lait S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Centerfold T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Chloe's Breakfast Special S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Curly for President S 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Dead Sea Equestrian S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Easily Amused S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Easily Aroused S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Egg McMeadows S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Espresso S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Glory Jean's S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Idiot's Deluxe S 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Juan Valdez S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Mr. Coffee S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Percolator S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Quinn/Callaghan S 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Red Sea Pedestrian S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Rise and Shine S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Rubicon S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Rumor Has It T 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Shealyn's Way S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Shemp Lives S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Squeeze My Lemon S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

Description

If you are looking for beginner sport routes, then look no further. The Parking Lot Wall is a mecca for easy-to-moderately-hard sport routes that remains in the sun for the majority of the day.

Conveniently situated behind the main parking lot, the PLW is host to stellar full-length 5.6s and 5.8s (Glory Jeans, and Chloe's Breakfast Special, for example), as well as short, testy 5.9s (Egg McMeadows). Climbers can also find instant gratification from the steeper, pumpier side of Rumney by climbing the forearm-inflating route Espresso (10d), as well as 100% Columbian (11c), both located on the rightmost side of the cliff.

This crag sees the MOST small/large group traffic and can be extremely crowded on a busy weekend!
Note: New route moratorium area Details

Getting There

Park in the main parking lot for Rumney. Look up and you'll see the cliff in plain view. The trailhead is directly behind the information board. A 1-minute jaunt uphill will bring you to the base of Espresso. The majority of the routes are to the left.

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Classic Climbing Routes at The Parking Lot Wall

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
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Photos

M Sprague
New England
M Sprague   New England  
Ask Pete Jackson. It might be his. If it is where I am thinking, he asked the ranger and they were ok with it, considering it technically not part of the Parking lot wall. ..no idea if he is still working on or abandoned it. It's kind of a heap. Oct 6, 2017
Eli
Lives in a truck
Eli   Lives in a truck
What is the story on the red tagged route way way right on parking lot wall. Oct 2, 2017
TDoyle
Milford, MA
TDoyle   Milford, MA
One of the quick clips on Easily Amused was looking a little worn down when I was on it today. Aug 30, 2013
M Sprague
New England
M Sprague   New England  
I think it was another plant, but I don't remember the name. Ward probably knows. A problem with some of these species is that they are basically invisable part of the season, only above ground parts of the year.
I agree, photos and descriptions here of the rare plants at Rumney would be a good idea. Sep 11, 2012
twellman
Cambridge
twellman   Cambridge
Thanks for the info Mark. Is it the cut-leaf toothwort, the same one they put up the fence near Flesh for? I think it would be helpful for someone with good knowledge of the rare plants in the area to put some of that info (and photos if possible) here on MP. Most people, including myself, wouldn't know the difference between rare plants and weeds. Maybe we could work that out with someone from the forest service. Sep 11, 2012
M Sprague
New England
M Sprague   New England  
They might be anchors that I put in a long time ago. There is actually good climbing up there, but I abandoned it since you had to scramble up a dirty corner to get to the good stuff and I didn't think it was worth cleaning there. We learned there are actually some rare plants in that area that the FS was concerned about, so nobody should clean where the iceclimbs go. They were even contemplating closing it to all climbers, but they were convinced that the ice covering protected it enough. Sep 11, 2012
twellman
Cambridge
twellman   Cambridge
Does anyone know what the deal is with the anchors on top of the tallish section of cliff that is straight up from the bathrooms, very close to the parking lot, about 200 feet left of the Meadows Flow ice climbs? Looks like some pretty dirty chossy rock... maybe they're also for ice climbing? Sep 11, 2012
matthewWallace
Sandwich, NH
matthewWallace   Sandwich, NH
yeah I dont think i could ever send it but i would love to give it a shot hit me up with an email when you gonna be in the area sometime and we will hit it up. Apr 6, 2009
Mike Thompson
Manchester NH
Mike Thompson   Manchester NH
Matt, I have ogled and oogled over that little roof A LOT! I have no doubt in my mind that I could never send it lol but i would love to work it with you some day :) When ever I'm up at Rumney I always touch the holds on the end of the roof :) Apr 6, 2009
matthewWallace
Sandwich, NH
matthewWallace   Sandwich, NH
There is a project with a single old bolt and I believe anchors that is between Week With Pete and Espresso. It starts at the back of the roof and up to the anchors. I am not sure if this has ever been sent it doesnt look like it has... Apr 6, 2009
Ladd    
Please toprope off your own gear See what it looks like if you TR off the quick clips May 17, 2007

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