Chloe's Breakfast Special
5.8 YDS 5b French 16 Ewbanks VI- UIAA 15 ZA HVS 4c British
Type: | Sport, 70 ft (21 m) |
FA: | Dave Quinn 12/97 |
Page Views: | 7,130 total · 32/month |
Shared By: | Chris Duca on Dec 21, 2006 |
Admins: | Jay Knower, M Sprague, Jeffrey LeCours, Jonathan S, Robert Hall |
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Description
Its dirty appearance doesn't do it justice--this route is two-star quality as both an end-of-day warm-down, or a nice, early morning warm-up.
Start up low-angle rock at the right end of the cliff, about 10 feet from the stepped, left-facing corner and just right of the dirty gully. (Don't be confused--Chloe's is the third line of bolts left of the corner!!). Clip a couple of bolts while wandering up the slab, clip another bolt at your face, then pass over a quartz dike and step into the climb proper. From here, the route takes you up a fairly innocuous-looking face, littered with great edges, surprise incuts, positive footholds, and fabulous positioning. You will encounter one mantle shelf at about mid-height, then another about 10 feet from the anchors.
Despite the number of holds in your face, Chloe's hides a killer sequence of movements that, once unlocked, flows beautifully. Quick clips at the top.
Enjoy!!
Start up low-angle rock at the right end of the cliff, about 10 feet from the stepped, left-facing corner and just right of the dirty gully. (Don't be confused--Chloe's is the third line of bolts left of the corner!!). Clip a couple of bolts while wandering up the slab, clip another bolt at your face, then pass over a quartz dike and step into the climb proper. From here, the route takes you up a fairly innocuous-looking face, littered with great edges, surprise incuts, positive footholds, and fabulous positioning. You will encounter one mantle shelf at about mid-height, then another about 10 feet from the anchors.
Despite the number of holds in your face, Chloe's hides a killer sequence of movements that, once unlocked, flows beautifully. Quick clips at the top.
Enjoy!!
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